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Found 204 results

  1. Hello fellow modelers, This project had started from the April, but due to my limited time the progress was very slow and I didn't managed to post earlier. The kit I chose was Eduard's Fw 190 D-9 Late #8189 profi pack. I started assembling the first parts (cockpit, some gun bay parts, gears etc.) and then I continued with the priming. Afterwards I painted the cockpit and cockpits sidewalls with AK true metal silver, I used this layer as a base for the chipping. Then I painted using mostly AK's 3rd gen colors. Unfortunately I didn't have RLM 66 for the cockpit interior so I mixed it using reference pictures, for the mix I used Pale grey and black (1:3 ratio approx.). I painted the cockpit details using a 10/0 brush with 50-50 water diluted paint, I used the photo-edged parts and actual pictures as reference. Ι don't like the "flat photo-edged parts, for some details I cut the decals and I applied them in the correct position. For the weathering I used for the first time AK's waterpencils, I really liked the final result. Also I used Winsor & Newton Wintor and Abteilung oil paints. Currently I have glued the 2 fuselage parts and the wing together. The fitting is not the best but I can fix it with some putty (picture will be uploaded later). I would like to ask if someone has pictures of a similar finished model or actual pictures. Any commend is very useful because I am relatively new in the hobby (This is only fourth kit, I have finished 2 spitfires and I have a F 16 on hold).
  2. Hello, I just received the new 1/48 Kinetic MQ-9, actually the original SkunkModelWorks with new decals. I will build it as one of the recently armed Reapers deployed by the French Armée de l'Air in Niger in support of Operation Barkhane. More specifically it will be 709-EH-132 Arnaud
  3. Hello! This is my recent project, a classic WW2 warbird. Nice kit, everything went well. Unfortunately, the clear part, which would allow to build a full open canopy, came damaged beyond repair. It had a L shape hole right on the top. So, I had to make it half open. Anyway, the plastic is very thin and clear so we can see a lot of details inside. Eduard PE were used. Hope you enjoy! Cheers!
  4. Good day to you all, It took a while, but finished (a while ago, but haven't posted until now) - 1/48 Tamiya F-16CJ (14FS Misawa). I threw all the goodies at it I could and scratch build areas where applicable. Goodies included: Eduard BIG set Eduard aim-120cs, aim-9x, sniper pod, agm-88 Eduard wheels Meng satellite guided bombs (for the gbu-31 v3) Speed Hunter Graphics SEAD Specialists Master pitot and aoa probes Master static wicks KA models exhaust GT Resin left hand side ecm pod I may have left some out and will edit the post again if so happens. Mainly painted via Hataka paints. A quick summary of the build itself: The build started with the wheel bays, as I was waiting for some eduard bits to arrive. After test fitting some resin parts for the intakes/bay against each other and the bottom of the fuselage I decided best route is to use the kit plastic wheel bay/intakes and put in the work. The cockpit was a mix of eduard and scratch build bits as best as I can make limited by hand size and eyesight. After the intakes, gear/bay, and cockpit where detailed and painted, closed the model halves together and clamped them overnight. The intakes, although straight from the kit, decided to fight against me but had enough flex to stay fitted once the glue and plastic dried. Model was then pre shaded and sprayed with the appropriate colors of the real jet. I then weathered it to taste using mainly the Tamiya panel line accents - the model was lightly weathered. Next i put together and painted the exhausts. A long time passed between that stage and the recent corona months because of personal drama at home as well as an injury. All good, as the virus hit worldwide giving me an excuse to dust off my model. On the final leg I finished off the weapons, sniper pod, and canopy. A few weeks past as I searched for a gbu-31 v3. I initially tried to get one 3d printed but settled on the Meng kit plus some detailing made it acceptable. A few more tweaks after that I finally threw in the towel and declared it finished. Any more fiddling I'm afraid Murphy's law might kick in and I might do something I will truly regret. This was kind of foreshadowed by my flying instrument panel/hud which I had to repair. In the end it took a very long time, but the actual model went together relatively without fuss. Here are the finished pictures, enjoy! Let me know if I have missed anything, areas I haven't covered, post or picwise. Many thanks! Konbini
  5. Incredibly this is my 8th finished model this year. This has been part finished for a good 15 years, but very happy with how it turned out. Only problem was the decals which were very fragile and cracked and shattered very easily. The yellow leading edge markings were especially bad and pretty much unusable. The date on the sheet was 2003, and they've been in the loft for most of the past 17 years so perhaps I shouldn't be surprised...…I ended up raiding the decals folder for some yellow markings from an old Tamiya F-84 Thunderjet Not perfect but pulled me out of a hole. The aircraft is from a training squadron based in Japan so I kept the weathering to a minimum. As she was when pulled out of the loft a couple of months ago And the finished article
  6. Hello! I’ve always liked Aggressor’s scheme for the Eagles, so as soon I got a F-15C kit, I went after the right decal set for this scale. They’re from Two Bobs and everything else is OOB. I scratch built the ACMI pod from a AIM-9, so this bird is in the normal configuration for ACM training, with the pod and a captive AIM-9. Kit was ok, except for the rear compartment lid that had to be well sanded so the canopy could fit closed, even tough is not perfect. Hope you enjoy! Cheers
  7. I bought this sheet second hand a while back only to discover it came without instructions. Scan, hi-res photo or even a photocopy will do. Thanks.
  8. Hello fellow enthusiasts, I have searched everywhere I can to locate the Caracal Decals CD48048, which is the 1:48 decal sheet for the YF-23 kit by Hobbyboss. No one has them in stock anywhere. If anyone has this sheet and wouldnt mind parting with it, I have cash on hand and would love to buy it off you. I am interested in the full sheet, but I will not hesitate to buy partials or partly used decal sheets. Anything helps! Thanks guys, JC
  9. Geoff M

    345 BG Air Apaches

    I just finished reading a great book that was suggested on these forums, Warpath Across the Pacific, and thanks to all those brave men that served in that unit. Anyway I want to try and build an example of a b-25 from each of the squadrons. I am finding that many of the marking from these units are out of production and available at ridiculous prices. Looking for a reasonable source for markings. By the way I have already done a B-25J gun nose from the 498th, so I just need the 499,500,501. Thanks Geoff M
  10. Hi all! Back again with my latest completed project, the 1/48 Academy Su-30MK2 Flanker-G of Tentara Nasional Indonesia Angkatan Udara (Indonesian Air Force), circa 2014. This model was inspired by my wife, Cicila, who is from Indonesia. This model is now proudly displayed in our living room and she is very happy with it! Having some issues posting this post in it's entirety, so I will break it up into multiple posts...
  11. Number 7 complete for the year. This model sat, like so many of my stalled builds, partially assembled and covered in primer, probably for at least 5 years. The HobbyBoss kit is something of a throwback. I know there have been complaints about it's accuracy, which I won't comment on (as I don't care enough), but it reminds me of the classic Monogram and Hasegawa kits of the 80s. It's a big, chunky model, well detailed in some places, a bit simplistic in others. It goes together quickly and easily, but not necessarily well I chose to build mine as an in-service USAF "what might have been" of the 1st TFW, USAF. The decals were cobbled together from TwoBobs, the Academy Raptor, and a Japanese decal sheet (NBM). I painted this as something of a test bed. I'm starting on a USAF F-16 in the Have Glass V paint scheme, and wanted to try Hataka lacquers version of this paint. It's maybe a touch too light out of the bottle, but after a coat with clear and then a dark dirt Flory wash, it darkened up a little bit and looks closer to the real thing. Because it's a big ole kit in one colour - especially the wings - I tried to break it up a little bit with the wash, some oils, and also by painting a few panels in silver and grey. I probably painted the radome and leading edges in too pale a shade of grey, but that's a minor thing. They match the grey of the markings well enough. I was also aiming to get the distinctive Have Glass V "is it gloss or is it matt?" look and I think I just about pulled it off. I gave it a single light coat of Hataka matt varnish, over a Klear gloss coar. When it catches the light it's glossy and metallic. When it doesn't catch the light it's dull and matt. Due to it's enourmous size, long profile, and low down stance it's a very hard model to photograph. For the intake covers I used pieces of cardboard, coated in tissue paper soaked in thinned black paint, then some decals from the NBM sheet. You know how I said it's a big model? Here she is alongside a 1/32 F-16 fuselage for scale...... Overall, very happy with this one. There's some things I'd do slightly differently with the paint scheme, but like I said, she was something of a test bed. Now she's another completed model, and a big, eye catching one at that.
  12. Hellow fellow models!!! My name is Thanos, I am a mechanics student from Athens, Greece. One of my passions are airplanes. I spend the most of my day in home, due to the corona virus outbreak. So, I started scrolling in YouTube and I found lots of aircraft modeling videos. I didn’t waste any time and I bought my first kits, (2 Eduard Spitfires (1/72) and a Kinetic F 16 Block 52+ HAF (1/48), which are actually my favorite aircrafts), paints and an H&S Ultra 2 in 1 airbrush. I had almost no experience in scale modeling (only a Revell A320 and a Revell Leopard 2A6, almost 5 years ago), but I have a lot of experience in general manufacturing, as I used to spend the most of my day in my university’s laboratories, prior to virus outbreak. I had already made a thread about this project in jet modeling sector, but I decide to post also some pictures here. Anfortunately I don't have many pictures from the first stages of the manufacturing. For this project I am using the following Kinetic 48028 F-16C Block 52+ Hellenic Air Force Eduard 648013 F-16 seat for KINETIC Eduard 648011 F-16 late wheels for KINETIC I started with the cockpit, its construction was very easy. I used reference photos from a book called "Vipers under the skin". I used AK's 3rd gen acrylics for as base colors (Intense black as priming and then I sprayed 80% sky gray + 20% england grey as base color). For the details I also used some AKs 3rd gen, some TAMIYA acrylics and Humbrol Enamels. For the airbrushing I used the 0.2mm nozzle and for the detailing I used DaVinci NOVA 10/0 and Winsor and Newton 111 3/0 synthetic brushes. Then I worked with the inlet and the exhaust. Inlet I made some fitting testing und I painted it inside. I used white with very little sky gray, also I used Mr.Surfacer 1200 in order to fill some gaps. The overall fitting of the outer part was good but I used some puty to fill the gaps. Afterburner chamber and middle part: As you can see in the pictures I tried to fill some flaws caused by the mould. At first I painted with AK's 3rd gen Intense White mixed with only a little of Sky Grey. Then I sprayed some smoke lines (following my referense pictures and my experience with the engine) with Intense Black, in the end I further weathered it with a mix (using again the refernce pictures) of Winsor & Newton Wintor Ivory Black and Abteilung Dark Rust oil paints (I used a No 8 Synthetic Flat Brush). I didn't thin the mix prior to the application (as this oils have relatively low viscosity), but I only used AK's odorless enamel thinner to remove the excess paint. I used the same processes for the afterburner chamber and the exhaust nozzle connector but I tried to make a heavier weathering, using two tones of the weathering mix (a blacker and a browner one). Exhaust nozzle: For the inside part of the exhaust nozzle I used a mix of White and Medium Grey mix, trying to replicate the ceramic material. And I weathered it using different tones of the weathering mixture. The most difficult part was the exterior painting. As a base I painted it black and then with natural steel metalic color. I made a mix using black and medium grey to paint the smoke and then I tried to shade every fin using the previous weathering mix (Ivory Black and Dark rust). Wheel Bay: The assembly of the main wheel bay was relatively easy, also I made some parts of the electrical harness using copper cables. I made preshadowing using black colour and then I painted white. I used AK's paneliner for grey camo and Winsor & Newton Wintor Ivory Black & Raw Umber oil colours. Fuselage and CFTs There weren't many fitting issues, but before the final assembly, I made lots of dry fittings. The biggest issue I had was with the gun cover, which had a slightly smaller curvature, after extensive use of putty and sanding, I think that I manage to fix it. The CFTs dry fitting was also really good, I didn't open holes and I positioned them using their silhouette. For the side nose parts I used some blu tack in order to adjust them, I haven't glued them since I am not sure if I must fix the nose first. (just to be sure I will add some bolts as counter-weight). The only major problems where those marked on the picture but I managed to repair them. Since I am new to the hobby, I would like to hear your opinion about my project.
  13. I'm considering building an early, Cold War AH-64 using Monogram's old 1/48th scale kit. But this time around I'd rather not try to clean up Monogram's doughy, sink-marked AGM-114 Hellfire missiles. After some quick investigation, I think this Eduard kit can successfully represent early AGM-114s. Although it looks like I might have to use the Monogram rack and rails. Thoughts? Warnings? Advice?
  14. Hello everyone This is an Iranian Phantom from Hasegawa in 1/48 scale (OOB) presented In-Flight. This model represents a Phantom from 9th TFB in Bandar Abbass city at south of Iran during a CAP mission during war in 1980’s. Colors are Tamiya and Mr.hobby. Decals are from Print Scale. The stand comes from one of my vintage 1970’s United States Air Force F-4 Phantom II desk model. Hope you enjoy. Barzin 9D41408F-675F-4ACC-A530-4F8C3D8473F0 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 8E78D567-271D-40CE-A3FD-19124E101E97 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 9E201AE0-58DA-46C4-A669-49CB4C4ACE4D by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr C9D5B504-C8D0-4646-932E-49104885FDC4 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr B8E98869-D98E-4D2B-8E39-6F77C85D6C64 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 99CD7C04-F8C6-496E-8665-DA5030C949BE by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 17074545-DCB4-4DC3-BEDE-2A6B1B36A33B by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 31C8AC79-506D-46DF-BAC9-5CB1402C5FDE by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 6DDB391B-B477-4703-9248-1906CA8C98D7 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 07F84D0F-03F0-4824-AF48-04F58A9D0FBC by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr IMG_73 1102898A-D5E5-4151-B2C2-2BC04BADCF8A by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 2019_02_20_IMG_5287 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr photo_2019-02-23_23-00-59 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 67 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr
  15. So I finally finished this model. I was rather upset at how warped the kit was, but so be it. I had the Draw decals for the Cal Fire version and that's what got me to finish the model. I used a resin cockpit that didn't quite fit. I like white and red planes so this fits my little collection quite well.
  16. Hellow fellow modelers. I am looking to buy a 1/48 F 4E Phantom II. My plan is to build a HAF F 4E AUP (as the one in the picture). I have troubles finding a F 4E in 1/48. Can I modify a different version in F 4E standards?
  17. Hello fellow modelers, let me introduce you myself. My name is Thanos, I am a mechanics student from Athens, Greece. One of my passions are airplanes. I spend the most of my day in home, due to the corona virus outbreak. So, I started scrolling in YouTube and I found lots of aircraft modeling videos. I didn’t waste any time and I bought my first kits, (2 Eduard Spitfires (1/72) and a Kinetic F 16 Block 52+ HAF (1/48), which are actually my favorite aircrafts), paints and an H&S Ultra 2 in 1 airbrush. I had almost no experience in scale modeling (only a Revell A320 and a Revell Leopard 2A6, almost 5 years ago), but I have a lot of experience in general manufacturing, as I used to spend the most of my day in my university’s laboratories, prior to virus outbreak. I made this thread in order to share some photos of the Kinetic’s F 16 and also to ask about advices from people who have built this kit. Also, I would like to ask if someone knows a correct mixture for the Aegean Ghost paint scheme (Correct me if I am wrong, I think that’s also an Aggressors scheme). For the Spitfires I will make another thread.
  18. Hello All.... Old build .. Posting the pictures now.... Out Of Box build with no enhancements anywhere. The kit was a MCP kit so had to do basic primer and preshade to bring all the parts in one uniform color... Super kit to build... I love the color of this scheme just had to have one ... Love the F4 shape too ... So will be adding more to the Display.. ... ;-). Enjoy the pics.....
  19. I used to model as a child, and now I decided to get back to the hobby. For such I chose the GWH 1/48 Su-35S, I love how the Su-27 aircraft family looks, and Ive seen some awesome reviews of this kit online. To the point, mine arrived a few days ago from China, and as I wait for the rest of the stuff I need for the build to arrive, I figured I would start this topic, and adress some of the first questions that came to my mind regarding the build. Starting by some doubts regarding which joints are and wich joints arent panel lines: The joints that have BLUE lines paralel to them, Im not sure if they are or not panel lines, and Id like your opinion regarding those to make matters clearer to me. The joints that have RED lines paralel to them, Im pretty sure arent panel lines. The joints that have GREEN lines paralel to them, Im pretty sure are panel lines. If you think I made any mistakes on the red and green lines, please let me know. This one I am pretty confident about, but I figured it is great to first illustrate what I mean by the colourful lines. I found some pretty great reference pictures of the front detail of the aircraft, and even though the kits joint line of the upper and lower fuselage matches pretty well with the paint transition line between the belly colour and the top camouflage, there is no panel line there (paralel to the red line that i drawed), and thus that gap will be filled with putty. Here is where matters get tricky for me, I have no ideia if the kit joints paralel to the blue lines are supposed to be panel lines or not. Yufei, on his pretty amazing build (http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/303533-gwh-148-su-35sk-flanker-e-plaaf-6th-brigade/) filled those up with putty. But I cant put my finger on it. If nobody can help me further on this matter, Ill simply trust his steps to be right. You got the ideia, no panel line here, putty it all. This one doesnt follow the same logic as the previous 3 images. Here I believe GWH missed a panel line where I drawed the blue line. Do you guys know if Im correct about this one? Take a look at the reference photo I used to get to my conclusion: In blue is the panel line that I believe GWH missed Credit where credit is due: https://www.flickr.com/photos/100009549@N06/35891338524/in/album-72157685375253980/ Btw, this album is amazing for Su-35S references, check it out! While at it, I also found some misalignments (circled on blue) on the tail boom, the 2 halves of the 2 panels dont go together perfectly. That might be a matter of better sanding the sprue residue on the tail boom (as you can see on the picture, I havent done that yet), but I dont think it is. That seems to be a simple enough fix tho, some fileing should make it right. Lastly, I saw that Gabor on his build (http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/302522-gwh-su-35s-building/) got rid of those 2 small panels, because the version he was building didnt feature those. What version is that? Im building the Red 25, should I be concerned about sanding off those panels? Thanks in advance for your replies, Arthur.
  20. I have the following items for sale. All items are complete and unstarted. Shipping will be quoted using the USPS shipping calculator from zip code 46158. I will ship internationally. Payment via Paypal, money order, check (held until cleared) or cash. Please PM or email me with your interests and include your zip code or country so that I may calculate shipping. Thanks! Brian 1/48 Kits Airfix EE Canberra B.2/B.20/B.62/B(1)6 $45 Heller Jaguar A $20 1/48 Decals Superscale 48-893 S-3B Viking $3 Twobobs 48028 F/A-18C VFA-87 Ultimate Warriors $5
  21. January is the month I break out builds from The Naughty Closet and see if I can get them wrapped up. With 2 done, 2 moving to completion and 2 right back in there where they belong AND with the added bonus of Gibson Brands shutting down production due to Captain Trips, it's time to get these underway. Here's the box art: I'll not lose a minute of sleep over never considering the old Classic Airframes release and coincidentally enough, this release got a whole lot cheaper when Airfix announced theirs. The plan is to do a pair of 264 Squadron Defiants; one the day fighter on the Airfix box art and the other a night fighter from an aftermarket decal set. Sprues from the Airfix kit: And the Classic Airframes kit: Judging by the part count I'm guessing the C.A. kit will go faster. Ken
  22. Set for correcting the shape and size of wing fences of the Su-17/Su-22 model in 1/48 scale manufactured by Kitty Hawk. Cast from polyurethane resin.
  23. Set for correcting the inlet cone of the Su-17/Su-22 model in 1/48 scale manufactured by Kitty Hawk/Hobbyboss. Cast from polyurethane resin. For photo painted silver and black.
  24. I have been considering a new project: I want to do Lt. Lochridge's F6F-3 (#117, "Lolly") as featured in the most recent release of the 1/48 Eduard kit. The deal is that I prefer to use the Hasegawa model. I was wondering if anyone has the decals left over that they would be willing to part with. I would appreciate it!
  25. I have been considering a new project: I want to do Lt. Lochridge's F6F-3 (#117, "Lolly") as featured in the most recent release of the 1/48 Eduard kit. The deal is that I prefer to use the Hasegawa model. I was wondering if anyone has the decals left over that they would be willing to part with. I would appreciate it! (Also posted in buy/sell)
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