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Found 11 results

  1. Hello all This build started in 2005, back then I thought it was a good idea to include pictures of the sprues as a way to publish an in-progress report in a “formal” manner as I saw done with other modelers, so here they are along with an Aires’ cockpit set. While searching for references, I noted that some characteristics of the Corsair were, to my taste, oversimplified in the kit, like the exhaust tubes, tail landing gear and it's bay, radiator intakes, brewster bomb rack and to some extent the main landing gear. I guess Tamiya choose easy of build over accuracy, especially on the underside that is not seen most of the time. What is surprising to me is that, after 13 years, except for the Aires Main gear bays I don’t know of any aftermarket options for this items; Ultracast’s exhausts only replace the kit’s parts but won’t tackle the whole area. The decision was made to butcher the model to enhance the accuracy. Here are the pictures I took back then. Don’t remember why I stopped at this point but must have been a combination of missing references, hope for new aftermarket options and lost interest in the subject. Anyway, I decided it was time to continue. Carlos
  2. Morning! So I am not a newb but I am no expert in model building either. I am trying a new technique on my Trumpeter 1/32 F4U-1D... hairspray technique. I am going for a well-used and weathered look in the Pacific. I work primarily with an airbrush and acrylic paints. I primed the model in black, then went over with aluminum in some places and interior green in others. Here was my plan moving forward: Hairspray over the aluminum and interior green -> then white coat and black on panel lines -> then thinned top coats so the panel lines show through. I would then go back with a toothbrush and water on the paint to show the aluminum and interior green through it all. However, this now seems like an awful lot of coats over the hairspray and that: 1) the hairspray technique may no longer work and the paint may not come off, and 2) I may lose panel line detail with all of the coats. I want some shading though over the bird, that detail that makes the plane really POP! Suggestions? Thanks, Jim
  3. Well I’ve gone and done it. I glued the wing hinges on the trumpeter model together so they’re not moveable. While this isn’t a deal killer, I was really looking to have it folded. Don’t ask how it happened. Any ideas? I’m lost. Does anyone sell 1:32 scale Corsair wing hinges? Model: Trumpeter 1:32 F4U-1D
  4. Ok, question... fading the paint... I want to give the paint scheme and decals an overall “faded” look. I read that you can lightly wet down a model, sprinkle it liberally with rock salt, then spray a “filter layer” lightly over that. Brush away the salt when it dries and it gives a faded look. Has anyone tried this? Is there a better way?
  5. I'm having no luck trying to locate information about whether the Corsair -1D model had a ground power receptacle anywhere on the / close to underside of the aircraft. Trying to find a good connect/disconnect point for a gussied-up 1/32 scale 21st Century Toys version into which I've inserted a slot car motor to power the prop. If anyone knows, PLEASE help! Thanks
  6. Sticking with Revell aircraft kits this week by taking a look at Revell's 1/32nd scale F4U Corsair kit.
  7. Looking at another aircraft kit this week with a kit from a manufacturer that I have never hear of prior, with Jo-Han's 1/72nd scale F4U-1 Corsair.
  8. Hello gents, Well, it's been ages since I finished anything and even longer I did post here. So here is an out of the box Corsair of VMF-217, Guam, 1945. Hope you'll like it. Best, Stef (#6) Click images to enlarge :
  9. I want to depict my Fujimi A-7 while taxiing on the carrier deck. While searching the internet I found only a few pics which show the A-7 taxiing with the nosewheel deflected. And this is where my question came up. The one pic I found of a A-7 taxiing with wings folded up and nosewheel deflected to turn a corner, does not show any deflection of the rudder, while the few pics with wings extended show the rudder deflected in correspondence to the nosewheel. My question is if there was some kind of mechanism which prevented the rudder from deflecting while the wings were folded up. Usually the rudder deflects during taxiing when using the rudder pedals and only the nosewheel steering had to be manually activated by a knob on the control stick, at least for aircraft of that era. Thanks Michael
  10. Hi guys, I'll be building Tamiya's 1/48 F4U-1A, which is a lovely kit to build. Unforunately the kit's decals don't align with what we are trying to achieve in this GB, so I'll have to source some others! I'm looking forward to trying out all new weathering techniques and trying some new products in this build, as well as it being the first time I've used an airbrush. The coarse sand landing strips, heavy traffic and combat fatigue on the aircraft in 1943 mean that there are some really interesting subjects out there. Tamiya's range of 1/48 planes are always well produced, and this isn't an exception. I laid down a base of Alclad's Gloss Black primer, followed by Aluminium. I let this set, before adding two coats of Vallejo's Chipping Medium. The interior colour is standard GZC, as close as I could match it. I then did a bit of dry-brushing here and there, detailed the instrument dials with a needle and some paint, touched it up with a very fine brush and added some pigment over the top to highlight the instrument bezels. I was considering adding some Kristal Klear to the gauges to add some depth - I'm not sure how it would turn out though? Anyone have any advice? I mixed Vallejo's GZC and Tamiya's XF-4 to reach a nice match for the primer outside the cockpit, however I'm not happy with the oil wash. It wasn't anywhere near thin enough. Still experimenting there! I'll use the same colour to simulate weathering on the wing-root area also, but have been looking for references and advice about how far through the paint would be worn away. If anyone has anything to share, please do!
  11. Alright, I finally decided on what to build for this Group Build. After toying with a rather dissapointing Italeri A-26C, and not being sure if a FB-111A would fit into the GB, I have picked the A-7E Corsair. I will be building two at the same time, one will be a US Navy VA-146 one, from 1971 on the USS Constellation, and the other one will be a Hellenic Air Force one, in the SEA scheme. Kits of choice will be the Fujimi ones. I have sprayed some grey on the cockpit bits, photos will be posted once my camera battery has been charged, and when Photobucket gets its act together.
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