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Found 88 results

  1. **********More to come this weekend************* ALL KITS SOLD HAVE BEEN BOXED AND WILL GO OUT THIS WEEK. I have some 1/48 jets for sale. For sale to CANADA/USA ONLY and price INCLUDES SHIPPING. Price in $US Payment by PayPal or for Canadian's E-transfer works. All kits ship from London, Ont., Canada 1/48 Revell/Monogram A-6E/EA-6B in 1 box $50 1/48 Monogram F-100D $25 1/48 Revell F-15E + Eduard Zoom color P/E $30 1/48 Tamiya F-84G Thunderbirds + Eduard masks + Experts Choice 48-52 OHIO/IOWA ANG $30 1/48 Hasegawa F-15D/DJ + TB 48-130"Sunshine State eagles" $40 Thanks Don
  2. This started as as a P-3C and was modified to a P-3B config of the Argentinian Navy using reference pictures. I filled the sonobuoy tubs, added Eziline HF wire antennas, and updated the antennas to reflect the Argentine fit. The model was also rescribed. Paints are mainly Gunze acrylics and SMS lacquers. Decals are the From DekLs sheet.
  3. I have a Hasegawa Ld5 Singapore 747 Jumbo 1/200 model factory sealed from 1987. The funny thing is that UNDERNEATH the factory sealed plastic, the word "Boeing" is crossed out with what appears to be silver model paint. Was there a trademark issue? This is the only one I have seen with the word "Boeing" crossed out. Thanks!
  4. Looking at another one of Hasegawa's resin Egg Girl figure kits this week with their 1/12th scale Amy Mcdonnell kit.
  5. Good morning to all! I'm glad to present my last work... a restoration of an old Hasegawa A-4 that I built ten years ago. I decided to put it back to workbench due to the "crack" of the fuselage: 21616109_10210113589216277_2086911637920727775_n by valerio, su Flickr While I was at it, I scratchbuilt a new UHF dorsal hump (the one in the Hasegawa kit is wrong in dimensions and shape) using the cutting plotter: A-4SU Restoration_11 by valerio, su Flickr A-4SU Restoration_10 by valerio, su Flickr There was other details to fix, like a small naca intake on the main right engine intake, but the model was almost assembled and was very difficul to add this new parts. This is the final result! the decals are from Miliverse - many thanks to Mark (the owner) for his advice and pics! SU Finito_6 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_9 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_14 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_11 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_10 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_9 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_8 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_7 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_5 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_4 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_3 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_2 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_1 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_15 by valerio, su Flickr SU Finito_16 by valerio, su Flickr ... and here... a comparison with the 2008 version: DSC_3424 by valerio, su Flickr DSC_3429 by valerio, su Flickr DSC_3420 by valerio, su Flickr Thanks for your attention! Cheers from Rome, Italy.
  6. Good Morning, Attached are the first few photos of my next work in progress, this is a bit of kit bash between these two kits and both are being built parallel. 20200105_134423 by J Hooper, on Flickr The fist subject will be a new F-15SA (Saudi Advanced), still being flown by Boeing for flight test and integration purposes. Inspiration for this build can be seen in the link below: https://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zone/21755/f-15sa-bristles-with-a-dozen-aim-120s-missiles-during-star-wars-canyon-run The second subject will be a Israeli Defense Force F-15D, it will be one of the aircraft seen recently at Waddington, but with a different load out: Flickr Image (not mine!) The Great Wall Hobby kit is a Strike Eagle out of the box, where as the Hasegawa kit is really an F-15D with some extra parts thrown in. The Hasegawa kit is still, good, but it shows it's lineage, and there are still some steps that need to be taken to make it an accurate Strike Eagle. For that reason I will take advantage of the kit's individual qualities, to make the best out of both.
  7. Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat – 00: General considerations I am a proud rivet counter distinctly affected by Advanced Modeler Syndrome (AMS). At 57, I am chronic. Given that AMS is not a life threatening disease, I refuse every therapy, keeping digging deeper into this hobby in the utmost contempt for the “out of the box” approach. So far, I refused from posting my work here or on any other forum. Doing that requires additional time and challenging abilities, like photography. In addition, English is not my mother language. In other words, this is going to be my first In-Progress thread and this is going to be the first time that I post here by my name and not by a nickname. The Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat is well over thirty years old and very much has been said and written about it. Since when opening the box for the first time, I strong had the feeling that this kit was rushed up from the few years older 1:72 Tomcat, by any account relatively more accurate and detailed. Maybe this is the reason why fit is quite below Hasegawa standards in 1:48. Actually, I always believed this as the worst modern jet kit in this scale by this firm, but no other Tomcat was a better choice for a rivet counter like me. As a result, the Tamiya Tomcat was a very good news, but suddenly it left me with a bunch of obsolete Hasegawa Tomcats. I managed to sell them all my Hasegawa but one, a second hand kit missing the original box, instructions, and decals, but full of many spare parts and additional sprues that make possible a build of any version of the Tomcat. This kit is now on my workbench. In an attempt to please my AMS, my plan is to improve my Hasegawa Tomcat using only a few of the many aftermarket items produced for this kit over the years. For one reason or another, I often ignore Hasegawa's instructions sequence. In general, after studying the sprues long enough to get bored, I am used to writing my construction order, trying to break down the construction process into many different subsets. This time makes for six subset: Forward Fuselage Main Fuselage Tails, Stabilizers, and Strakes Cockpit and Wheel Wells Wings Undercarriage Legs, Wheels, Seats, and Canopy Unless I change my mind on the way (quite possible), my intention is to build one of the first boat tailed Tomcat with the rear air brakes open and the wings swept forward, to take advantage of the options offered by this old kit. As for the aftermarket, I am planning to use nothing more than an Aires cockpit and some Royale Resin wheels, but I'm not really sure. About the markings, I have no idea yet. More from me soon.
  8. Hello Guys, This is the Charge Mazda 767B, a 1/24 kit by Hasegawa. Built completely OOB and painted with locally available acrylic paints. Enjoy the Video.
  9. Incredibly this is my 8th finished model this year. This has been part finished for a good 15 years, but very happy with how it turned out. Only problem was the decals which were very fragile and cracked and shattered very easily. The yellow leading edge markings were especially bad and pretty much unusable. The date on the sheet was 2003, and they've been in the loft for most of the past 17 years so perhaps I shouldn't be surprised...…I ended up raiding the decals folder for some yellow markings from an old Tamiya F-84 Thunderjet Not perfect but pulled me out of a hole. The aircraft is from a training squadron based in Japan so I kept the weathering to a minimum. As she was when pulled out of the loft a couple of months ago And the finished article
  10. Hello everyone This is an Iranian Phantom from Hasegawa in 1/48 scale (OOB) presented In-Flight. This model represents a Phantom from 9th TFB in Bandar Abbass city at south of Iran during a CAP mission during war in 1980’s. Colors are Tamiya and Mr.hobby. Decals are from Print Scale. The stand comes from one of my vintage 1970’s United States Air Force F-4 Phantom II desk model. Hope you enjoy. Barzin 9D41408F-675F-4ACC-A530-4F8C3D8473F0 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 8E78D567-271D-40CE-A3FD-19124E101E97 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 9E201AE0-58DA-46C4-A669-49CB4C4ACE4D by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr C9D5B504-C8D0-4646-932E-49104885FDC4 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr B8E98869-D98E-4D2B-8E39-6F77C85D6C64 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 99CD7C04-F8C6-496E-8665-DA5030C949BE by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 17074545-DCB4-4DC3-BEDE-2A6B1B36A33B by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 31C8AC79-506D-46DF-BAC9-5CB1402C5FDE by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 6DDB391B-B477-4703-9248-1906CA8C98D7 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 07F84D0F-03F0-4824-AF48-04F58A9D0FBC by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr IMG_73 1102898A-D5E5-4151-B2C2-2BC04BADCF8A by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 2019_02_20_IMG_5287 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr photo_2019-02-23_23-00-59 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr 67 by Freddy Pilot, on Flickr
  11. Looking at another figure kit this week. This week's review video is of Hasegawa's 1/12 Rei Hazumi from their Egg Plane series.
  12. Hi all! Back again with my freshly completed 1/48 Hasegawa F-22A Raptor. So when considering building a Raptor, two things usually come to mind before starting: How to handle the metallic "Raptor Sheen" and "Gold Iridium" tinted canopy. I have seen various approaches to solve these issues, with varying degrees of effectiveness. But since I like to experiment and try new methods, I decided to try techniques for both that I had not yet seen done. For the "Raptor Sheen", I decided to paint the normal camo colors (non-metallic), and then add a light coat of Alclad Airframe Aluminum on top of those colors. I wasn't sure how that would come out, but once completed I was pleasantly surprised by the subtle variable sheen I was getting and how it really blended the camo in a very realistic way to my eye. Hmmm, maybe I was on to something! I did worry about how the sheen would hold up after the gloss coat, wash, and flat coat, however. And indeed, the sheen was diminished quite a bit after these steps, so I did go back in after the flat coat was applied and added some Airframe Alumuminum randomly and very lightly. This actually really worked well, because this gave the model a bit of an uneven sheen, which seems to be what happens on the real aircraft as it weathers. Since I was going for a moderately weathered Raptor, this was right on point for what I was looking for. As for the canopy, this is something I had been thinking about how to handle for a long time. I did experiments a while back on a spare Tamiya P-51 canopy and found that a particular nail polish I found on eBay worked pretty well. I did not know how that would translate on a finished model, but was very happy to see that the effect was exactly what I was looking for, and something I had not seen done on any previous Raptor model. In person the effect is very cool, depending on how you view the model and how the light hits it, the canopy is either opaque gold/reddish, all gold, or even translucent gold where the pilot is clearly visible inside. As for how I applied the nail polish to the canopy, I mixed the polish with Mr Color Levelling thinner at a pretty high ratio of thinner to polish. This was applied to the INSIDE of the canopy then dipped in future to protect the polish and to increase the canopy luster. As for decals, the ones supplied in the kit are just not of the right color, so I had to source aftermarket, which is not easy! There is really not much available right now. I wanted to to an Alaskan Raptor, but there just weren't any usable decals I could find for that. I did luck out in finding a set of TwoBobs Langley Raptors decals, and went with those. They performed quite well and the color was right on IMHO. Other than the decals, this was completely out of box. The Hasegawa Raptor is a nice kit, and fitment is quite good overall, but this is a seriously over-engineered kit. There were so many internal braces and guide pin style interior assemblies that I actually had to cut some off and remove others to get the fuselage halves to line up right. That may have just been me, so I dunno about others. Another issue with this kit is the over-scale raised panels. Many people sand these down and replace lost detail, but I wasn't really in the mood to do that, so I left them be. I wasn't too bothered with them, and on the finished, weathered model, they really don't stand out as much as they do on the bare plastic. By doing this in-flight with closed bays, no weapons, and no landing gear it was a rather fast build of one month. This has really helped me get my modelling mojo back! Overally, I am very very happy with how this model turned out, and how my approaches to solve the problems of the sheen and canopy worked like a charm! Here is what I used for this build: Kit: 1/48 Hasegawa F-22A Raptor (07245 PT45) Decals: TwoBobs F-22A "Langley's Raptors" (48-123) Aftermarket: NONE Paints: Gunze Mr. Surfacer Black 1500 (main aircraft primer base), Tamiya Liquid White Primer (for marble coat), Mr Paint MRP-094 FS36251 Medium Mod Gray, Gunze Aqueous H308 Light Ghost Gray and H305 Gunship Gray, Tamiya Rubber Black, Clear Red, and Clear Blue, Gunze Mr Color GX2 Gloss Black (gloss black primer for metalwork) and Alclad II Airframe Aluminum and Burnt Iron. Future Gloss coat for decals and Future+Tamiya XF-21 Flat Base 6:1 ratio for final matte coat. Mig Ammo Deep Gray panel wash. Now on to the pics!
  13. Hello! This is another one I built. The F-4B Phantom from Hasegawa in 1:72 scale. I used the zoom photo etched set from Eduard for the cockpit plus some scratch building for the side consoles and the back of the front seat. The ejection seats are from Quickboost and are those for The F-8 Crusader. I think early Phantoms had these seats instead the Martin Baker MK-7 they had later. The exhausts are resin items from Aires. The decals are from PrintScale which are very delicate and need fast and determined application because they can fold easily. I used the decals for the VF-21 “Freelancers” 102, which along with the 101 did the first Mig kills of the Vietnam War on the 17th of June 1965. The fire engine and the figures are from the old Fujimi kit. The base is printed on paper. Hope you enjoy the pictures.
  14. Hi all! So I am just now getting to posting pics of a build I completed last month... Anyway, here is my 1/48 Hasegawa F-16D Arctic Aggressor of the 18 AGRS at Eielson AFB, Alaska, 2008. I have always loved this aggressor scheme, and modelling it in a two-seat F-16D variant seemed only right! The Hasegawa F-16 kit is actually quite nice for it's age and very good fit. It is a rather simple kit, not a huge amount of parts really and I enjoyed the build. The F-16D kit I used is an older one, and did not have the correct "wide mouth" intake I needed, so I sourced that from a Hasegawa F-16CJ kit I have. As far as aftermarket, I used a Black Box F-16D cockpit set, Master Model Pitot, the Hasegawa Weapons Set for the ACMI pod and Meng U.S. Weapons Set for the CATM-9. The other sidewinder with no front fins (not sure what this one is called, TBH) is from the kit and just modified by removing the fins and rounding the nose substantially. As for decals, I was used Afterburner Decals Arctic Aggressors set. I got really lucky finding that sheet at a local show for less than $10! I have been very lucky finding rare decal sets at the Cleveland Model Show over the years. Other than that everything else is OOB. Despite the ease of this kit it took me a long time (by my standards) to build due to modelling mojo loss and winter doldrums I suppose. The finished product, while I am happy with it, is not my best work to be sure. Cut a lot of corners and didn't put my usual effort into it. Here is what I used for this build: Kit: 1/48 Hasegawa F-16D FIghting Falcon (06106 V6) Decals: Afterburner Arctic Aggressors (48-034) Aftermarket: Black Box F-16D Cockpit Set, Master Model Pitot, Hasegawa Weapons Set D (X48-8) Paints: Gunze Mr. Surfacer Black 1500 (main aircraft primer base), Tamiya Liquid White Primer (for marble coat), Mr Paint MRP-246 FS36628 Arctic Gray, Gunze Aqueous H317 Dark Gull Gray and H305 Gunship Gray, Tamiya Rubber Black, Clear Red, and Clear Green, Gunze Mr Color GX2 Gloss Black (gloss black primer for metalwork) and Alclad II Airframe Aluminum and Burnt Iron. Future Gloss coat for decals and Future+Tamiya XF-21 Flat Base 6:1 ratio for final matte coat. Mig Ammo Deep Gray panel wash. Now on to the pics!
  15. Hi comrades! Here is my take on Hasegawa excellent kit with additions by Eduard brass, Montex and self made masks, and scratch made wiring for engine, undercarriage and bomb. Airframe riveted. Hope, You like it! Any comments are welcome!
  16. I have a few for sale. All prices in $US and INCLUDES SHIPPING TO CANADA/USA ONLY. Payment by PayPal (preferred) The list (all 1/48) Hasegawa AH-64A + Eduard Zoom color P/E (no kit box) $35 F-1 6SQN Sea Camo #07354 $30 Hobbyboss FJ-4B $30 Italeri AB-212/UH-1N $30 Hawk T.Mk1 $30 Kinetic A-6E $45 EA-6B (original release) $45 Revell F-8E + Blackbox cockpit and Eduard P/E (no kit box) $30 PM or email to DGerard1966(at)bell.net Thanks Don
  17. Back on 1/32nd scale aircraft kits again this week, taking a look at Hasegawa's offering of the BF109E.
  18. S&H is additional, paypal preferred, US only, please contact me directly at mholly_27@hotmail.com I'm in NYC. Mario. 1. Encore Polikarpov I-15bis with skis, $4 2. Hasegawa Kawasaki T-4 “Hamamatsu Special 2002”, $10 3. ICM Polikarpov I-153 Chaika, $7 4. Roden Lagg-3 series 1,5,11, $5
  19. So was out of town most of last month hence while I have not posted any of these videos. Back to looking at 32nd scale aircraft kits again this week with a look at Hasegawa's older boxing of their P-51D Mustang kit.
  20. Hi! I built the CAG bird with typical Linebacker load and well worn condition. Here my Hasegawa Phantom with Rhino seamless intakes, Eduard's brass, wheels, exhausts, Furball decals and some scratch build mainly in chassis area. All paints are from Gunze MrColor "C" series. Weapons from Hasegawa's weapon set. Thanks for looking!
  21. Back on 1/32nd scale kits again with a look at Hasegawa's FW-190A-8 kit.
  22. Completed before the house move, this is off to the backseat as it depicts his farewell flight. The Hasegawa kit performed beautifully with an Aires and Eduard cockpit upgrade. Painted with Vallejo.
  23. Hi ! Here my CAG bird from Vietnam cruise of Golden Dragons. Hasegawa kit, Rhino seamless intake, Aires main wheel wells, Eduard brass, Armory wheels. Weapon load for SAM suppression mission - from Hasegawa's weapon set All colors Gunze Mr.Color "C" series. Thanks to @crackerjazz for inspiration to build A-7! Thanks for looking!
  24. Hello: Here you have some pictures of my Voyager model. Its in 1/48 from Hasegawa You can see more in Sven site http://www.ninfinger.org/models/html_pix/rspvoyager.html
  25. Now that the Tamiya Tony is in the case, time to start on the next project which I picked up in Chattanooga in January, The Hasegawa 1/48 P-39 along with a beautiful wooden base from Bases by Bill (picture coming!) with the nametag of the Soviet P-39 ace Alexander Pokryshkin. Picked up the kit as a package with the nice wooden base and name plaque, and the Eduard PE bits for the interior, placards and flaps. I'm more used to Eduard's really nice P-39 kits which are mostly out of production now, but the Hasegawa kit has a nice level of detail and the Eduard PE just adds to the detail. Name tag from Bases by Bill: Here is the cockpit floor, with some of the Eduard PE bits attached: Debated on using the Eduard PE seat, but it is so much thinner than the kit set, and has much better detail. Still have some work to do but got it together. Have to close some gaps. The Eduard PE rudder pedals: Here is the kit IP, on the right, sanded down and the angle parts cut off, to take the Eduard PE color IP, which has already been sandwiched using Formula 560 clear glue. Will paint the exposed part with Interior Green or black as appropriate. Here is the IP all together, with the PE machine guns: Base coat of Model Master Acryl Interior Green. Nice detail showing up on the seat (and bits still be to be added). The floor shows where the tweezers were holding it during painting. Should be behind the seat-back and under the equipment shelf. Probably will touch it up with a brush anyway. Used a drill bit to open up the holes in the canopy frame. The Hasegawa kit is pretty good so far. And a couple of the black bits painted - lower instrument panel with the two slots for the PE knobs, and the radio which goes behind the seat. Will address that seam on top: So just getting started, lots of details still to be painted. Stay tuned! Chris
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