Pickers Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 I am fairly new to the game of airbrushing and was after some help advice about thinning and spraying humbrol enamels. I have thinned the paint in various different ratios but when I spray the paint drys with with lots of small blotches and seems to run really easily. I have done the same with revell paints and they have been absolutely fine - its really starting to irritate me - I am trying to get Hasegawa Phantom FGR2 finished but the finish of the light aircraft grey just comes out really badly - getting to the stage where I am thinking of binning the airbrush - a Revell Vario by the way. Anywya thnaks in advance for any advice offered Pickers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mickey Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Not sure exactly what your problem might be, but can say what works for me. My airbrush is a good old Paasche H (about 20years old). I tend to run a low pressure of 10-15 psi. I thin Humbrol paints with lacquer thinners usually around a 50/50 mix. The lacquer thinners help the paint to go off fast and works well provided that the first coat or two are dusted on (if the first coats are heavy you could melt your airframe!). Any subsequent coats can then go on heavier and bite into the paint already laid on. Humbrol paints do tend to be a bit inconsistent. I've got tinlets that are thirty years old and still paint really well, whereas some new ones only last a short time before going irretrievably lumpy. One trick with them, to help keep them the right consistency, is to store them upside down - but I rarely remember to do it! Hope that is of some help, Cheers, Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Julien (UK) Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Ever since humbol switched the production from the UK to china over a year ago the quality control has been absolute rubbish. It used to be a consistant paint you could rely on, now your not sure untill you open the tin. I have tins upto 20 years old with no problems, however new ones dry up, dont mix and when you get them on dont cure. I must admit I am using more xtra color where I can and for certain things moving to arcylics. I hope someone resuces Humbol, but if they do switch the production to somewhere else, please! Julien Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stan in YUL Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 hi Pickers Try a little more thinner and reduce your air pressure. hth's stan in yul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pingu1 Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 What Stan said. Plus, make sure your paint is really, really well stirred. This, in my experience, is the biggest single problem with Humbrol paints. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul T Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Not sure exactly what your problem might be, but can say what works for me. My airbrush is a good old Paasche H (about 20years old). I tend to run a low pressure of 10-15 psi. I thin Humbrol paints with lacquer thinners usually around a 50/50 mix. The lacquer thinners help the paint to go off fast and works well provided that the first coat or two are dusted on (if the first coats are heavy you could melt your airframe!). Any subsequent coats can then go on heavier and bite into the paint already laid on. Humbrol paints do tend to be a bit inconsistent. I've got tinlets that are thirty years old and still paint really well, whereas some new ones only last a short time before going irretrievably lumpy. One trick with them, to help keep them the right consistency, is to store them upside down - but I rarely remember to do it! Hope that is of some help, Cheers, Mickey Pretty much my advice to the letter (he`s a smart man that Mickey :) ) and what pingi 1(Chris) said.....STIR the S@ out of that paint,then shake the hell out of it. With my older tins,I sometimes notice the thinners evaporate and there is a thick goo left at the bottom.I add that magic elixer (lacquer thinner/cellulose thinners)and the paint is fine. Paul T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
canadian_camo Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 I guess I'm the lucky one then because with my Humbrol's I don't have to stir for like 5 minutes to get them right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul T Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 I guess I'm the lucky one then because with my Humbrol's I don't have to stir for like 5 minutes to get them right. Indeed.I only find I need to stir and shake them thoroughly if I don`t use them for long periods of time.But then, this may be said of most paints,where the pigments and resins settle out to the bottom. NOW...if only they could make the switch from those infernal tinlettes/tinletts/tinlets.......whatever To be truthfull ,most of my painting is done with ModelMaster ,but I do love Humbrol when I do use it (I probably have over 60 colours of Humbrol not found in my MM range) happy painting ! Paul T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yellowbelly Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Interesting observations on Humbrol paints. My only experience was using Extra Dark Sea Grey mixed with MM White enamel airbrushed on Tamiya Sea Harrier & MM Airbrush Thinner. I noticed it did clump together after about 2 weeks but it may be an issue with my preservation technique (add cling film once I open a MM Jar). Anyone had a similar experience mixing Humbrol and MM enamels? YB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pingu1 Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 As a general rule, I wouldn't mix different brands of paints together. Every range I know of is formulated only to mix with paints from the same range. I'm not surprised you had problems mixing MM and Humbrol. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 Plus, make sure your paint is really, really well stirred. This, in my experience, is the biggest single problem with Humbrol paints. That's what I've experienced too. I've found that I'm spending a lot of time stirring to get the paint to work worth a darn. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
madmike Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 I dragged out an old tin of Humbrol French Blue. It was rusty on the top around the lid but after about 20 minutes of stiring to mix the carrier and the pigment together (which had well and truly separated) all was well and it brushed beautifully. Not bad for a tin over 30 years old. Prepare your paint well before airbrushing or brush painting and a good result will be the conclusion. MikeJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiawei_91 Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 Since when did humbrol change the manufacturing country of its products? I wanna keep out! Lim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 how can you guys fit anything into those tiny tins to even be able to stir the paint! I used Hombrol once since they had an exact color match and just trying to stir all that goop drove me batty. I ended up dumping the whole thing into an empty jar and stirring it there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Julien (UK) Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 Liam they switched production to China about a year ago I think, quality control has not been the same since. Recently had thow out 3 tins of metal coat (Steel) as would not mix at all. With regards to mixing I use one of those battery operated stirers for making milk frothy! if you take the little spring type attachement off the bottom it fits in a tin just. In addition I find especially at this time of year that if you warm the tins up it helps. Julien Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Mullen Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 (edited) how can you guys fit anything into those tiny tins to even be able to stir the paint! I used Hombrol once since they had an exact color match and just trying to stir all that goop drove me batty. I ended up dumping the whole thing into an empty jar and stirring it there. I use one of those milk frothers you can get from your Poundstretcher(UK)/Wal-mart(US?). Remove the fine metal bit leaving the ring on the bottom. Heres mine:- Fits perfectly into a Humbrol tin. When the paint is nearing its life end (ie goes gloopy) I add Cellulose/Lacquer Thinners and keeps it going for a little longer. I have also found spraying with enamels and Cellulose/Lacquer Thinners much easier than using White Spirits. Edited August 15, 2008 by Andy Mullen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pickers Posted November 13, 2006 Author Share Posted November 13, 2006 I've been experimenting based on your advice - lowered the pressure on the compressor as advised and it has worked a treat - many thanks for all your advice Pickers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pingu1 Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 (edited) I find its very much a question of horses for courses. So long as you stir them really, really well, Humbrol enamels are fine for spraying and OK for brush-painting - cetainly, of all the brands of enamels I'm aware of, they brush-paint best. Most other brands of enamels, in my experience, spray better than they brush-paint, certainly in terms of drying time and number of coats required to achieve a given level of coverage. Some brands of enamel (Xtracolor), in my experince, don't brush-paint worth a d*mn. Tamiya acrylics are fine for spraying, but rubbish for brush-painting. Aeromaster, Polly Scale, and Lifecolor and Vallejo are good for both. Citadel acrylics are brilliant for brush-painting, but rubbish for spraying. Experiment, and use whatever works for you. Gel pens are good for cockpit detail, watercolours for washes.. Cheers, Chris. Edited November 14, 2006 by pingu1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
model_madness Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 ......Experiment, and use whatever works for you. Gel pens are good for cockpit detail, waterclours for washes.. Cheers, Chris. What are gel pens and where can i buy them? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pingu1 Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 What are gel pens and where can i buy them? Gel pens are rollerball pens with the ink in the form of a gel. You should be able to get them in any decent stationers. You can buy them individually or in sets. Pens with florescent or metallic inks are particuarly useful. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
I love airbrushing Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 Wow, I'm glad I found this topic before posting a new one with the same content. I've been using Humbrol paints for over 16 months now, and here's the problem I've always experienced: Every time I get a new Humbrol tin, the paint inside look perfect to me; I do the necessary stiring and I'm good to go. A few days later (less than a week), when I open it, that @#%%$@$ crust of dried paint is on the top, with less paint left under it!!! :blink: ...sorry for my language It happened to all my paints so far, except one - a scarlet red or something like that. I bet its gonna be dry tomorrow when I open it... :( When I bought my first Model Master paint -an RLM 76 - I was and I'm still impressed that the paint is not dried, only a bit thick. Thus, how can avoid the "drying up" of Humbrol paints? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Mullen Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 Wow, I'm glad I found this topic before posting a new one with the same content.I've been using Humbrol paints for over 16 months now, and here's the problem I've always experienced: Every time I get a new Humbrol tin, the paint inside look perfect to me; I do the necessary stiring and I'm good to go. A few days later (less than a week), when I open it, that @#%%$@$ crust of dried paint is on the top, with less paint left under it!!! :blink: ...sorry for my language It happened to all my paints so far, except one - a scarlet red or something like that. I bet its gonna be dry tomorrow when I open it... :( When I bought my first Model Master paint -an RLM 76 - I was and I'm still impressed that the paint is not dried, only a bit thick. Thus, how can avoid the "drying up" of Humbrol paints? Thanks Make sure you clean all paint off the rim and lid of the tins before closing them. I have found any paint left round these areas pevents the lid from sealing correctly and air gets in causing your problem. HTH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
I love airbrushing Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 I do make sure that the lid is sealed on the humbrol tin and the paint still gets dry. I tell you, it happened to all but one of my humbrol paints. One more thing, though, my flat white and flat black tend to dry the fastest, especially the white and that makes me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Julien (UK) Posted January 1, 2007 Share Posted January 1, 2007 Try turning your paint tins upside down after sealing this gets paint into any areas where air could get in. Julien Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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