Miliput

[kalla]

Hi.

I read somewhere that Miliput is used as a filler. How is this stuff compared with Squadron's putty? Will it shrink after some time? Can you paint over it? or do you need a coat of primer?

Thank you.

Kalla

[asvennevik]

Milliput is the best putty, bar none, there is for modelling. It is two component putty which can be worked, shaped or removed, with water while it sets. It does not attack plastic so there is no risk in fairing in canopies for instance. I have never had it shrink. I paint directly over it with no primer.

Anders

[trojansamurai]

Milliput is a two-part epoxy putty. The two parts are kneaded together like clay and through a chemical reaction, it cures. It creates a mechanical bond to the attachment surface by gripping on to microscopic imperfections of the surface.

Squadron Putty is a solvent-based putty and cures through evaporation of the solvent. It creates a chemical bond to the plastic surface by using the solvents to melt the plastic (like glue).

Pros:

- Epoxy putty can be shaped and built up in thick layers without shrinkage.

- Provides a harder surface, similar to plastic (though more like porcelain)

- Can be drilled, cut, etc. after curing

- Can be smoothed out and blended with fingertips/tools moistened with water prior to curing

- Sands and feathers well after curing

- Impervious to solvents after curing

- Accepts paints very well (priming recommended, as with ALL surfaces)

Cons:

- The mechanical bond can sometimes be weak if the putty is applied to a super smooth surface. It's best to rough up the surface with heavy grit sandpaper. Epoxy putty is known to simply pop loose at times.

- It's impervious to solvents after curing.

- Tends to be more brittle than plastic and is susceptible to cracking, rather than bending.

The brand I prefer is MagicSculpt, which is similar in concept to Milliput, but seems to stick better to plastic and is less brittle than Milliput.

[karlwb]

I don't use Milliput as a filler for seams or gaps, but for me it's invaluable for creating nose weights; along with some lead bird shot.

You can create a nice solid lump full of shot that fits precisely in to the intended nose cavity, without the risk of all them little balls rolling around inside your model.

HTH

Karl

[Julien (UK)]

I use it for larger area work as does not shrink, attack plastic and stays plyable for a time.

As mentioned it is a two part putty so you need to kind of guess how much you need before making it up.

When still plyable can be easily moulded with tools wet with water or a wet finger (used by most people )

Julien

[Little Mac]

I agee with Anders, I use Milliput Fine White for nearly all my filling jobs, but I have not had it come loose yet. I recommend using it but everyone has there favorite putty so I say try different ones untill you are satisfied with the result.

The one thing you will get from everyone here are honest opinions so just go trial and error and settle on the one that suits you.

Hope that helps

Craig

Edited November 28, 2006 by Little Mac

[Yuri]

I wouldn't use Milliput instead of regular putty. Of course you can, but because of the pros. and cons they already told, it's best for other things.

Let's say you heavily modified a kit (or you have a kit with a really bad fit, with large gaps and so): maybe you have to rebuild a radome with a different shape, or cut away a whole wheel well and replace it with a resin part leaving large gaps here and there. That's where milliput works best: you can rebuild whole parts and fill large gaps using it just like a modelling clay.

Once cured (it may take a day if you used a lot of water) it can be sanded almost glass-smooth, and with some care it can even be scribed (but that's not so easy).

One caution. By mixing the 2 parts you start a chemical reaction. I wouldn't touch it with bare hands while it's still "soft": the only time I mixed it without gloves it gave me a serious headache (seems this doesn't happen to all, maybe it depends on people's skin) anyway now I use gloves.

Btw, does it happen also to you? I can't ever mix just enough Milliput for the work I'm doing. I always mix at least the double of what I really need! What a waste!

Edited November 28, 2006 by Yuri

[jrallman]

miliput/magicsculpt is great for scratch building stuff too. one of the guys at my local model club works with magicsculpt all the time and the stuff he makes is just incredbile! all of the figures and planes in this diorama were made with magicsculpt.

[trojansamurai]

One caution. By mixing the 2 parts you start a chemical reaction. I wouldn't touch it with bare hands while it's still "soft": the only time I mixed it without gloves it gave me a serious headache (seems this doesn't happen to all, maybe it depends on people's skin) anyway now I use gloves.

Btw, does it happen also to you? I can't ever mix just enough Milliput for the work I'm doing. I always mix at least the double of what I really need! What a waste!

Yes, it has irritated my skin on occasion, though I don't recall getting headaches. As for mixing quantity, I usually mix a small bit at a time, as I try to get it as smooth as possible upon application so that I don't have as much sanding to do later. Since this method takes extra time, I don't have to rush myself by worrying about the unused putty hardening. If you have too many areas that have been puttied at once, you run the risk of accidentally touching a finished area and pulling it off. This stuff can get quite sticky once it starts to cure.

[MikeC]

Btw, does it happen also to you? I can't ever mix just enough Milliput for the work I'm doing. I always mix at least the double of what I really need! What a waste!

If you've got enough surplus, why mot mould it into scale sandbags or similar for a display base or diorama.

[pingu1]

If you've got enough surplus, why mot mould it into scale sandbags or similar for a display base or diorama.

That's exactly what I do, except not just sandbags...

The problem I find with Milliput is that you have to mix exactly equal quantities of the putty and the hardener, or, I find, the stuff dosn't harden properly. Therefore, I normally only use it where sanding smooth after the putty has hardened is inadvisable, areas such as cockpit framing or corrugations. IN thee aeas, you can smooth the stuff with watere, before it hardens.

Otherwise, I use gap-filling superglue and accelerator, and fill large gaps with scrap plastic before applying the CA. However, there's no one right answer to the putty problem, just several valid ones.

Cheers,

Chris.