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Czech Model 1/48 Grumman JRF-2 Goose


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thanks doc. well, bit more progress today. i finished masking the bottoms of the wings. I got this stuff from sprue bros called "Mr. Finery Slit Mask" which is two sheets of tamiya tape, one cut in 1mm strips, the other in 2mm strips. made taping off the curves at the ends of the wings much much easier than trying to cut strips of tape myself. very cool product, though oddly named. sort me makes me wonder if it was a mistranslation based on the rather stereotypical inability of asian speakers to differentiate between "L" and "R". But I digress. I shot it with several thin coats of chrome yellow. it is looking pretty good now, but I think i may shoot one more thin coat once i have given this a day to cure, just to make sure I get good coverage. once that is done and fully cured, i will mask it and shoot the silver lacquer, and that will be all the paint and on to decals. it occurs to me that i should probably get to work on the props, since the kit props look pretty bad. they were intended to have spinners, but the Goose I am doing didnt have spinners, so I need to have at least a little bit of prop hub detail. Thanks for looking!

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  • 2 weeks later...

As promised, here are the pics of her all painted up. I have a few minor touch ups to do, mainly with the yellow around the engine nacels, but other than that the paint came out nice. I was pleasantly surprised at the silver paint. I used MM custom lacquer silver thinned with just a little lacquer thinner since it was pretty thin oob. it had fantastic coverage. one light coat was all it needed and it looks great. the sheen is pretty impressive too, maybe too much. it makes the alclad aluminum look like the silver lacquer and the silver lacquer like bare aluminum! it will even out more after a clear coat since i plan to tone it down a bit with a semi gloss clear after the decals, which is the next step. Thanks for looking!

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Coming along nicely, Jay ! That silver finish looks great, and to me it's a pity you'll be toning it down, as I like shiny a/c :thumbsup: ...

BTW, what's EZ-line ? Is it some sort of fishing line or nylon line you find at a shop selling sewing supplies ? I'm still modeling in the stone age, using stretched sprue, and obviously it's not ideal.

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Doc - Thanks!

Eric - EZ Line is used mostly my model railroaders to model electric and phone lines. It is a very stretchy line, about 700% stretchability. It comes in two sizes (3 mil and 6 mil, i use 3 mil) and several different colors (I think white, dark gray, green, and maybe another - i use dark gray) It is a bit reactive to CA so it take a little practice, tends to curl as soon as it hits CA. but it is a short learning curve, and once you get it, youre hooked! I had tried lots of different things but kept breaking my line or antenna. this way, no breakage! I think pulling the threads out of pantyhose will work in a similar way too. HTH!

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Thanks! Well, the decals are on now. These markings are from Draw Decals. He makes a bunch of Goose decals, pretty much the only aftermarket option for this plane. The decals are nicely pritned and opaque. they are ALPS or something similar in that the whole decal sheet has the carrier film, so I cut the decals closely along the edges. the only issue I had was with the tail decals. I should have painted the stripes, because these decals are a bit short to cover the curve around the top and bottom of the rudder. I made it so the blue met on top and left a slight gap in the red and white on bottom. I will fix it with a little paint, but i wanted it to be on the bottom in case it was noticable. i am very glad that I used EZ Line now, since I managed to knock one of the floats completely off the wing while decalling. the EZ Line stretched, but did not break, and held the float loosely in position so two small dabs of super glue and it was good as new. the EZ Line held it in the proper position as it dried too, bonus! I didnt knock of the mass balances from the tail, but I did knock off the tie down cleat in front, 4 times! I found it 3 times. Hence, I will be building a new one out of thin styrene rod. This time I will drill holes to mount it in instead of just surface mounting. I need to do a few paint touch ups from rubs and dings during decalling, then I can clear coat and start final assmebly. Thanks for looking!

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Jay, that is a beautiful scheme...with some great paintwork. A friend of mine, Merril Weins, had a Grumman Widgeon painted up in the Coast Guard scheme and although I was invited to fly it, nothing worked out..but I do have a few good photos of it.

Barney

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick note. I am still working on this plane. I have had some problems with the rudder decal. Since it is a very large decal but also a rather fragile ALPS decal, I tried to seal it with some future before I did some touch up painting to a few areas where the decal was too short. however, apparently the future didn't seal as well as I would have liked, because the decal has now chipped and torn and lifted in several places. I managed to save the part where JRF-2 is written on the rudder, but the rest I am going to have to redo with paint. No big deal except that I have to be careful how I mask so that the masking doesnt pull up or chip any more of the decal that is still there. I was able to find some Aeroproducts white metal props. They are slightly different than the real ones. The real ones were fixed, the aeroproducts ones are variable pitch, but the hub looks the same and the blades are the same, so I will go with these. I am cleaning them up for alclad chrome. I will post pics once the rudder is on and I can clear coat and remove the masking.

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well, the decals were just too large and fragile to mask over, even with two coats of future and a coat of paint. after painting the white and masking for the red stripes, the masking pulled alot of the white paint, and decal up, which pulled some of the red up as well. Instead of continuing to fight with the rudder the way it is, I think I will strip it, and redo the whole thing with just paint. The lettering on the blue field is white, and I don't have an ALPS, so I will either print the entire blue filed on white decal paper, or print on clear decal paper with a fade around the edges, then paint a tiny bit of white where the letters will be so they will show through the decal. Haven't decided which will work better yet. Running out of time for this one though since the Region 4 that my club is hosting is at the end of the month, and I really wanna take my Goose. With no more setbacks, I should be ok.

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See, this build knows that I am trying to get it done in time for the Region 4 contest next weekend that my IPMS club is hosting. This rudder is just asking for it! So, I stripped all the old decal and paint off it and started fresh. Shot the white, masked, shot the red, masked, shot the blue, got huge cracks, no, thats not even accurate, crevases, canyons, ditches, in the blue paint. I have no idea why. It is all enamel, all the same brand even. I tried sanding and respraying the blue, same thing. So, I stripped just the blue, reshot it, worked this time, but got a little overspray on the red and white, so I shot some more red, and ditches and canyons! ARGH! So now I have stripped all the red and white off and am starting that over, red is down, once that dries I will mask and shoot white, and, HOPEFULLY, it will all go down ok with no weird gullys. I needed something to go right in this build to keep from getting too frustrated, so, while the red is drying, I turned to the metal props. I had already filed the seams off and gave them a coat of Mr. Surfacer. I sanded this to a nice smooth finish then shot it with some gloss black.

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Next came the Alclad chrome.

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Here is a close up of a prop, ooooh, shiny!

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The hubs will get hand painted with some aluminum so they aren't as shiny as the blades. I have the prop logos with the kit decals. Those will go on next. Thanks for looking, and I still think I can get her finished in time!

Edited by jrallman
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Well, I am ready to call the rudder sufficiently beaten into submission. I wasn't able to get the "JRF-2" script on the rudder to look right to my liking, so I am just going to do without. Here it is in stages of painting, though these pics are deceptive, because between each stage there was alot of cracking, pitting, swearing, stripping, masking, repainting, etc. but it finially came out.

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Here it is attached to the plane. Finally getting somewhere, with a few days to go till the Regional convention. I sprayed the clear coat tonight and will start unmasking and putting the fiddly bits like wheels and tail gear and arials and exhaust and props on after that. Thanks for looking!

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Thanks. took the masking off the windows last night and the pilots side has a little frosting near the bottom. I think it was from the CA I used to attach the landing gear since the gear well has an opening to the cockpit. Can't figure out any other way it happened since I used white glue to attach all the clear pieces. Its not too bad, looks like the window has a little condensation on it from the morning mist. I put the wheels on, finally and she is sitting up right. Unmasked the landing and formation lights and added the aerials and exhausts. Tonight I will add the rest of the lights, a very light bit of weathering since the pics of the real thing look pretty pristine, and attach the props and she will be done!

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I'm gonna call this one done! Finally! It was a struggle, some because of the kit, and some because of random issues that sprouted up, but in the end I am pretty happy with the resutl Thanks for looking and helping along the way.

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