jotter Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Hey folks, I'm building a 1/48 B-17G for my father in law and I'm wondering which adhesives will be best for getting all the tiny windows attached with a strong enough bond to stand up to the masking prior to painting? I know not to use super glue or regular cement for fogging/crazing reasons but the Elmers just seems wimpy to me and i worry about popping a window only to lose it in the fuselage Any advice will be greatly appreciated Anton "Jotter" Alerte Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 if you use future on your clear parts, you actually can use CA (in small amounts) to attach the windows. Keeping a fan blowing gently on the work area as they dry will help also. if that makes you too nervous, ive heard good things about krystal klear (its like a watch cement or some such) and i have used 5 or 6 minute clear 2 part epoxy, which also makes a nice bond and is safe for the clear parts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snake111 Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 I use Testors clear parts glue, never had a problem with it. You could probabley just use elmers white glue also as I dont think there is much of a difference. Brian. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 i use testors clear parts and elmers for alot of stuff, but I know what Anton is talking about with those tiny windows on the fort holding up to masking. probably want something a little more reassuring than testors or elmers just to be on the safe side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steven Leeds Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 I mask the windows before I glue them in. I've found it easier to use the 3m blue painters tape. I slap a piece over the whole window and trim around where it meets the other parts and then glue it in with Testors clear parts cement. Cheers, Steven Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bails Posted December 15, 2006 Share Posted December 15, 2006 Hi Jotter. For securing clear parts that'll get rougher than normal handling, I carefully use 5 minute epoxy. Any overflow of epoxy is easily cleaned off with "light swipes" of 91% Isopropyl Alcohol on a cotton bud. You can let the epoxy dry a bit before cleaning. Bails Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jotter Posted December 15, 2006 Author Share Posted December 15, 2006 Thanks all!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonbryon Posted December 15, 2006 Share Posted December 15, 2006 Actually, liquid poly cement works fantastic for glueing clear plastic. I use MEK and touch a loaded brush to the joint, well away from the part of the window that will remain clear. It even works when the surfaces to be glued have been painted. The resulting bond is stronger than if using either superglue or white glue. But, be careful not to let any of the glue touch the window itself, otherwise it will craze (but can fairly easily be polished out if this does happen). Everyone says that you can use superglue with future/klear, but I tried that and the canopy fogged. Not an experience I want to repeat, so I stay well away from superglueing windows now! Jon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
asvennevik Posted December 15, 2006 Share Posted December 15, 2006 Seconding what Jon writes. I attach all ny canopies and windows with my standard liquid cement. Never had it fog. Anders Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mossieramm Posted December 15, 2006 Share Posted December 15, 2006 Everyone says that you can use superglue with future/klear, but I tried that and the canopy fogged. I had that happen as well once, apparently had somethig to do with the Future not being properly cured. But the great thing about futuring first is if the part fogges it is easlily removed by dipping the part in Future again. David. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonbryon Posted December 15, 2006 Share Posted December 15, 2006 I had that happen as well once, apparently had somethig to do with the Future not being properly cured. But the great thing about futuring first is if the part fogges it is easlily removed by dipping the part in Future again.David. Well, maybe so! But my canopy was well and truly on when it fogged (see below), so there was no way I was going to remove it. Jon (Aeroclub Meteor - an old build, so pretty poor quality...you can see the fogging at the rear of the canopy.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
strikeeagle801 Posted December 15, 2006 Share Posted December 15, 2006 Another vote for watch crystal cement. Meteor Productions sells some, and it works great. Strong bond, and crystal (no pun intended) clear indeed. Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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