How to use Mr. Mark Setter & Softer?

[Greenghost]

I just got Mr. Mark Softer and Mr. Mark Setter in the hobby shop as I have heard that they are excellent to deal with Hasewaga decals, however all the wording is in Japanese (I think). Does anybody know for sure how to use them or if need some special application or thinner? The same applies for Mr. Dissolved Putty.

Any hint will be helpfull.

Thanks

GG

[is it windy yet?]

Mr mark setter goes on first as a setting solution. Then after the decals have been positioned and dry, use the mr softer. Don't move the decal after mr softer has been applied. There is no need to thin first. Test first as this is much stronger than other setting solutions. Mr dissolved putty is good to go straight from the bottle.

Ron

[The Keeper]

Yeah, just like Ron said, apply the setting solution, then your decal. I usually wait one hour and then apply the solvent. Use a dropper or a wet brush so you don't move the decal. After you apply the solvent you'll see wrinkling but DON'T TOUCH! After a couple more hours it'll be done and ready for pictures.

hth

[Chuck1945]

Do you apply the decal in the normal fashion first,by soaking in water I mean?

yes

[Greenghost]

Thanks :lol:

[I love airbrushing]

Since we're on this topic, I'd like to ask some relatively similar questions, without opening a new topic (for reasons of saving internet space :P ):

I just practiced applying decals over this area (where the black petal goes over two small bumps on the side of the engine cowling), using Hasegawa decals cut into triangles, and with Model Master Decal Setting Solution. The result was exactly what I was expecting: the decal simply folded on top of those "bumps", with air trapped under those folds. How do you guys do it? :( Shouldn't the decal setting solution work it out? the surface was covered with a gloss coat, too. I'm just looking for a nice result, where the decal sets itself on top of those bumps, as if painted; just like in the picture.

Or is it me doing this in a totally wrong way?

What are the steps for this specific process? Can please have the patience to explain this as to a 5-year old?

I need to be able to get this done, before attempting to do it on my next build, Hartmann's "black tulip' plane, using Aeromaster decals.

Thank you so much

[David Walker]

Those are quite often the most difficult ones. I've never used Model Master's solutions, and I've found Hasegawa decals to be pretty thick in general. Aftermarket decals will USUALLY go down a little better and I've had great results using MicroSol (the red labelled bottle) to get the decals to conform to complex surfaces. You may also have to use a pin to poke small holes in the decal where it's tenting to allow the solution to get underneath them. And often it can take multiple applications as well.

[Chuck1945]

The decal setting solution will not make the decal settle down over any lumps or into any seams. A large decal such as one of the black triangles will inevitably trap some air underneath when it is moved into place. The use of setting solution will hopefully minimize the air trapped, but will not eliminate it.

Decal softening solution (Micro Sol or Polly Scale Decal Softener, or any other such as Solvaset or Champ) will soften the decal and allow it to settle down over a lump. However, even then if there is air trapped underneath it will not settle completely, the air bubble will remain unless you follow David's advice and prick the decal with a pin or the tip of an Xacto to let the air escape. Sometimes a slit may even be required if the decal itself is not flexible enough even with softeners.

[Musical_Box]

speaking of setting solutions, has anyone tried Humbrol's Decal Cote 1 & 2? I've been using them for quite some time now, but the softener hardly seems to do the job of helping thick decals to settle down over engraved or raised details, thus leaving me no option but scoring the decal with a sharp blade.

[I love airbrushing]

So, what you guys are saying is that Model Master Decal Setting Solution does not act the same as Micro Sol. Thus, I am supposed to use Micro Sol over the "petal" decals that will go over the engine cowling, on top of those irregularities. Just tell me if I got this right.

Thank you again

[David Walker]

Yes, that's correct. Model Master Decal Setting Solution (I'm going to assume) acts the same as MicroSet, the blue labelled bottle. You'll want some MicroSol, or the like.

Edited March 26, 2007 by David Walker

[is it windy yet?]

Using hot water also helps get hasegawa decals to conform better. For Japanese produced decals mr mark softer, and mr mark setter usually works better than micro set or sol.

Ron

[Greenghost]

Using hot water also helps get hasegawa decals to conform better. For Japanese produced decals mr mark softer, and mr mark setter usually works better than micro set or sol.

Ron

There you are...

GG