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Best Airbrush for thin lines


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I would vote for the SOTAR myself as a great all around airbrush, it does great for mottle camos and is also useful for larger areas. I know alot of folks love the Iwatas, but the three that I owned seemed a little too prone to clogiing, although other folks don't seem to share that opinion.

The Sotar is a very good airbrush but the average modeller does not need one as it is a specialty airbrush that only works well with certain fine-pigment paints. If people want to try and freehand models smaller than 1/72 scale then go ahead and spend $200 on one and have fun. :)

But for the average modeller who wants fine lines for 1/48 and 1/72 scale aircraft then the Sotar 20/20, Iwata Micron, and Paasche AB Turbo are all a waste of money.

But back to your original question of which AB sprays the finest line...The Paasche AB turbo. Yeah it's fiddly and needs to be set up perfectly, but once you get used to using it, absolutely no other brush can spray as consistently a fine a line.

You are correct in that the AB Turbo is very difficult to work with and I know very few people who use them. The Iwata CM and the Sotar have become the mainstay airbrushes for fine work these days. If you are able to spray well with the AB Turbo then more power to you, but I wouldn't touch one of those nightmare's for anything. :rolleyes:

Mike

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Does anyone else out there own this type of Badger, or something similar?

Hi Pete.

I use the Omni 4000 and it is similar in spray patterns, etc as the Badger 360 you have.

What pressure setting should I use for camo applications for 1/72 scale aircraft?

That depends on the paints being used. For that small of freehand camo you will want to be spraying at 10-15 psi if possible for control.

How fine a line should I be able to get with this airbrush?

You can get lines smaller than 1/16" with that airbrush with practice and properly thinned paints.

Mike

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hey

ive been readin some airbrushes will not spray enamels that well

i own a badger 150 but cant get it to do fine lines

i thought of buying a sotar or iwata to get super fine lines

will i have any problems using enamels?

Josh,

Those airbrushes are designed for really fine pigment paints like urethanes, inks and water colors. They do not spray enamels very well. Now you said "Iwata" so I am assuming the Iwata illustrator airbrushes is what you were assuming such sa the Micron, HP-C, etc.

The Iwata Eclipse will spray fine lines with enamels as will the Badger Omni 4000, and several other airbrushes.

Mike

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Guest Subhuman
hey

ive been readin some airbrushes will not spray enamels that well

i own a  badger 150 but cant get it to do fine lines

i thought of buying a sotar or iwata to get super fine lines

will i have any problems using enamels?

Josh,

Those airbrushes are designed for really fine pigment paints like urethanes, inks and water colors. They do not spray enamels very well. Now you said "Iwata" so I am assuming the Iwata illustrator airbrushes is what you were assuming such sa the Micron, HP-C, etc.

The Iwata Eclipse will spray fine lines with enamels as will the Badger Omni 4000, and several other airbrushes.

Mike

Mike,

What about the Badger 350?

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Guest Subhuman
hey

thanx for the info

i went searching around for the iwata eclips

but i found about 5 different versions

which do i need?

josh

I believe Mike W favoured the Iwata Eclipse HP-C in prior posts.

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hey

thanx for the info

i went searching around for the iwata eclips

but i found about 5 different versions

which do i need?

josh

Josh,

That depends on whether you want a gravity feed or a siphon feed? :sign_boycott:

I like gravity feed airbrushes and prefer the Omni 4000 as it is American made, has the best customer service period, and parts are about half of Iwata's costs.

Omni-4000.jpg

The Iwata equivelent would be the HP-CS.

EclipseHP-CS1.jpg

Notice the similarities in these two? That's because Iwata copied the Thayer & Chandler design of the Vega and Omni series. ;)

Mike

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Mike W, would it be too much of a hassle for you to scan those practice results of yours and post them here? I heard many good things about Iwata. I would love to see actual results.

Thanks for your time.

P.S. If you decide to post samples, dont forger to put a ruller or a dollar bill right nex to it, for comparison.

Z.S. :sign_boycott:

Unfortunately, I didn't save anything, but I'll screw around with it some tonight and post the results.

So far, the only thing I don't like about the HP-CS is the fact that you have to remove the needle cap to get those extemely fine lines. This exposes the needle tip and if you're not careful, you can easily bend it. The instructions mention a "crown cap" that you can buy to protect the needle and I definitely think it's a good idea.

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you guys think something like this might work for ultra fine lines?

http://www.hobby-airbrushes.com/index.html...html〈=en-us

josh

Josh,

That is the airbrush I mentioned in the post before.

I even included a picture of the Omni 4000 ;)

Yes, they do spray fine lines, but what is your definition of fine?

I would not buy one from that web site you posted though as they are WAY overpriced!!!

I can get the Omni 4000 for $69.99 and that web site wants $107. :sign_boycott:

Mike

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So far, the only thing I don't like about the HP-CS is the fact that you have to remove the needle cap to get those extemely fine lines. This exposes the needle tip and if you're not careful, you can easily bend it. The instructions mention a "crown cap" that you can buy to protect the needle and I definitely think it's a good idea.

With the Omni 4000 you can reverse the aircap to either expose the needle or leave it protected.

It sprays just as fine either way except you can get a little closer with it exposed.

Mike

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Guest finalcs

The Sotar is a very good airbrush but the average modeller does not need one as it is a specialty airbrush that only works well with certain fine-pigment paints. If people want to try and freehand models smaller than 1/72 scale then go ahead and spend $200 on one and have fun. ;)

But for the average modeller who wants fine lines for 1/48 and 1/72 scale aircraft then the Sotar 20/20, Iwata Micron, and Paasche AB Turbo are all a waste of money.

Obviously what a person chooses to spend is their decision, however I do disagree with the characterization that the SOTAR is only a specialty brush. I use the brush for almost all of my normal painting needs, using all the normal modeling enamels in my paint collection. As for cost, I have two of these, and I paid no more than $100 for either. Careful shopping can get really good deals

[.

You are correct in that the AB Turbo is very difficult to work with and I know very few people who use them. The Iwata CM and the Sotar have become the mainstay airbrushes for fine work these days. If you are able to spray well with the AB Turbo then more power to you, but I wouldn't touch one of those nightmare's for anything. ;)

Mike

As for the Paasche, I don't know why people are scared of them. They are actually just different, not really harder to use. The only critical thing is to insure that the Blast tube is centered precisely so that the needle is dead center. If that is set up properly the rest of the adjustments are really just fine tuning. And again a thinned enamel works fine, no matter what I have heard said. I have been using an A/B for over 10 years now, and really have had no problems at all with it.

:sign_boycott:

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A lot of really good information here. Just throwing in my $0.02.

I have an Eclipse cs and love it. Is it pricey? Yes. If I had known about ARC way back I may have gone with one of the Omni's but cest la vie.

I Managed to get almost hard camo lines my first time out with the brush. All I can say for sure is practice and thin the paint and practice and thin..etc. I use a cyringe for medicine dosing(no needle) to get the ratios.

If you check Iwata you will see two charts that match the brush to the media and the job. Eclipse CS looks good for what I need as would the equivilants listed by Mike.

As much as I admire illustrator level brushes like the custom microns, its insane overkill for modelling. Save your money where you can and practice.

JMHO.

Mike is right on about those 3 companies. Those prices are good. You have to be carefull not to overpay. You can also check your local art supply as well. I found the same airbrush cheaper at my art supply then at my hobby store.

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im thinking i may get either the omni 4000 or the

omni 5000

whats the difference besides the cup on top?

thanx for the help

josh

There's is no difference other than cup size.

The Omni 4000 would be my choice as the 5000 only holds 1/8 oz. compared to the 4000's 1/3 oz. cup.

Mike

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Obviously what a person chooses to spend is their decision, however I do disagree with the characterization that the SOTAR is only a specialty brush. I use the brush for almost all of my normal painting needs, using all the normal modeling enamels in my paint collection. As for cost, I have two of these, and I paid no more than $100 for either. Careful shopping can get really good deals

To each his own I guess. The most knowledgable airbrush experts in the country that I know would not agree with using a Sotar for modelling because it has no real advantage over others that are less pricey. Beyond that a needle is $12.60 for the Sotar and a tip is $24.50 so I would consider that a specialty airbrush and not something I would use for most modelling.

As for the Paasche, I don't know why people are scared of them. They are actually just different, not really harder to use. The only critical thing is to insure that the Blast tube is centered precisely so that the needle is dead center. If that is set up properly the rest of the adjustments are really just fine tuning. And again a thinned enamel works fine, no matter what I have heard said.

Again if it works for you them go for it but I still feel they are overkill for modellers. Airbrush Action magazine even put out a video once entitled, "Using The Paasche AB Turbo Airbrush" so I would say they are not as easy as it sounds.

What I always tell people about subjects like this is to call Dave Monnig at Coast Airbrush and ask what he thinks about these airbrushes for modelling. He is one of the most knowledgable people in the country on airbrushes and compressors and has much more experience with them than any of us.

I doubt he would recommend the Sotar, Micron or AB Turbo for modelling and would probably tell you to go with an Eclipse.

Mike

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ok

ill start saving for omni 4000

thanx alot buddy

im looking to get an almost pencil line with little or no overspray

hophly this airbrush will solve my problem

thanx

josh

That makes 2 of us! After Mike's great help and after seeing all the posts in this forum, im deciding to get an Omni 4000 too! There are a lot of models in my stash that will have camos and i think the Omni 4000 is the one for them.

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ok

ill start saving for omni 4000

thanx alot buddy

im looking to get an almost pencil line with little or no overspray

hophly this airbrush will solve my problem

thanx

josh

A "pencil line" is pretty small for an airbrush to reproduce and requires a lot of skill and practice.

Mike

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I have an Eclipse cs and love it.  Is it pricey? Yes.  If I had known about ARC way back I may have gone with one of the Omni's but cest la vie.

You still have a real good airbrush there so the money wasn't wasted. ;)

As much as I admire illustrator level brushes like the custom microns, its insane overkill for modelling.  Save your money where you can and practice.

Thanks. It's nice to see that someone else feels the same way.

I have always said that buying one of these type airbrushes for modelling is like buying a $1500 Jun-Air silent compressor to fill your car tires. It will work but it is unnecessary. :sign_boycott:

Wait until these people who dropped the money on an Iwata Micron have to dump $110 on a new fluid head system, $39.50 on a nozzle alone, or even $17.35 on a needle alone. And those are discount prices. ;)

Mike

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