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Koster 1/48 RF-101A/C conversion


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I started one of these a few years ago and I can say that it is a very nice conversion. Fairly straight-forward as conversions go. It came with the proper exhausts in resin. I used the kit pit and made some sidewalls. Also, the inst. panel really needs to be done from scratch. I used a modified kit panel but it's totaly wrong for the RF version. The conversion does come with a proper panel but it's vac, sooo...

Any specific ?'s

Pete

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Thanks Pete.

Could you elaborate a little more on what is provided in the way of vac parts apart from the canopy & clear parts?

Also, how is the detail of the new forward fuselage? Panel lines if any?

Jason

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I did one years ago when I was doing 1/48 scale. The model came out looking good. The hardest part is cutting away the area on the rear lower fuselage between the the engine exhausts and fitting the replacement Koster part. Luckily for the forward fuselage on the Monogram part is cut along an existing panel line which makes the whole process easier. Surface detail is raised to match the Monogram parts, but being vacuform it's softer the the Monogram parts. Clear parts are OK.

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Hi Jason,

How have you been?

I've built a couple of these, and they are pretty good conversions. You get a new nose, new keel between the engines, camera windows, canopy, afterburner nozzles (plus some better resin ones), a panel to replace the missile pallet, main gear wheels, flat main gear doors, instrument panels for the RF and cannon-armed version, and gun bulges for the F-101A/C. To build the fighter version, you just need to replace the nose forward of the windscreen and add the cannons.

The fuselage halves fit together pretty good, but the aft fuselage parts are a little finicky. They are also very thin, so you have to be very careful when cutting and glueing them. The canopy is nice and clear, and the camera windows are all provided. They were the hardest part of the conversion, because it's hard to get them to fit flush inside the nose. You'll probably want to add a little weight to the nose, since you're shifting the CG aft. I had some trouble getting the panel that replaces the missile bay to fit well. The wheels are well-done, so you don't have to cut up the kit wheels. You'll have to build the kit with the canopy opened, because the cockpit sits a little high, raising the seat up to where it bumps the canopy. You can't really lower it too much, because the underside of the pit interferes with the top of the nose gear well.

C&H Aero Miniatures also has a F/RF-101A/C/G/H conversions, which are also pretty good. They're just a lot more expensive. They are about as hard to build as the Koster conversion, due to the way you have to install the nose gear well. Koster's canopy is better.

Neither conversion mentions you need to cut the intakes and splitter plates back so they are more perpendicular to the air flow. If you look at the kit intake, there is a panel line that runs parallel to the lip of the intake. If you file the intake back so you don't remove anything at the outboard edge, but take it all the way back to the panel line at the inboard part, you'll get t he right sweepback (if that doesn't make any sense, let me know and I'll try to muddy the waters more). The slitter plate edge is almost, but not quite vertical. You should be able to get an idea by looking at online photos.

C&H and Almark sell decals for the RF-101s.

HTH.

Ben

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Thanks for the info, Kalashinov-47. Appreciate it very much.

Ben, doing OK, been busy, though. How are you doing?

Thanks for the comprehensive run down on the set.

I don't have one yet, but certainly it being cheaper than the C&H is a major factor for consideration.

Came across it while looking at the re-released Revell F-101B on Greatmodels.

Jason

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Thanks for the info, Kalashinov-47. Appreciate it very much.

Ben, doing OK, been busy, though. How are you doing?

Thanks for the comprehensive run down on the set.

I don't have one yet, but certainly it being cheaper than the C&H is a major factor for consideration.

Came across it while looking at the re-released Revell F-101B on Greatmodels.

Jason

Hi Jason,

I'm doing well, too. :lol: Give me a shout if you have any more questions about the Koster or C&H conversions.

Cheers!

Ben

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  • 1 month later...

I can recommend the Koster conversion set for the F-101. It was one of my first vac-form experiences, and I managed quite well to get a decent result. That's why I bought a second conversion kit for the F-101.

I also am working on the resin conversion kits from C&H, and they are ok as well.

Succes with the conversion!

Maya

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Mike,

the Koster vacform conversions are regularly on auction on Ebay, or try the Great Models Webstore. These guys may have the resin conversions as well. C&H have their own internet-site as well, you should be able to order directly from them. If not, I might recommend a shop in Holland where they have at least one conversion in stock. Just contact me if you need the adress.

Maya

Where can I get one of these fine conversions?

Mike

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I am currently working on a C&H Aero Minitures F-101 conversion for the Revelle/Monogram F-101B. The C&H is resin and has engraved panel lines.

Here is a link for C&H Aero Minitures:

http://www.candhaerominiatures.com/catalog.htm

The F-101A/C, RF-101C and RF-101G/H are $45.00.

Great Models Web Store has the Koester conversion for $20.95.

http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/...?item_num=KAE10

I have conversions from C&H Aero Minitures for the F-101A/C, RF-101C

and two of the Koster conversions. I like the C&H even though it cost twice as much.

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Hi,

I just received my Koster RF-101C conversion yesterday - got it from Greatmodels.

It looks nice, but my apprehension is about removing the parts from the vac sheet - never handled a vacform kit before.

Jason C.

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Here's a good primer on vacs:

http://www.aeroclub-models.com/files/VacForm.pdf

Have a look at the parts before you start cutting them out. IIRC, there are some pretty thin spots in the plastic. Those you will need to go over with a knife several times and cut all the way through instead of just scribing around them and breaking them out. It might also be wise to reinforce some of the thin spots with a little five-minute epoxy. Once you get the parts cut out, they go together pretty well. I did have trouble getting all of the camer windows to fit, but the rest went together OK.

Have fun!

Ben

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