Jump to content

Alclad undercoat


Recommended Posts

Hi, everyone

On a previous topic about alclad, Steve FILAK said that tamiya acrilycs were dangerous if beeing used as undercoats for alclad bare metal paints.

This post was interesting and I had to check something : I have a Mig 21 I had made in late 2000, undercoated with tamiya acrilycs and painted over with duraluminium. There are no cracks on the alclad after 3 years, and it is still shining and strong.

In the ARC FAQ about alclad, it is said that tamiya acrilics are usefull as undercoats.

Well, what is the solution?

Thanks to share your experience

:rolleyes:

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guys-

I think they are referring to the Tamiya spray cans, not the bottled paint. Trust me - if it hasn't happened to you yet, it will. Do yourself a favor and get yourself a spray can of Krylon auto primer. In addition to providing a bulletproof base for Alclad, it's easily sandable, and will hide minor imperfections in the plastic.

Cheers, :sign_boycott:

Keywords: Alclad primer Tamiya Filak

Link to post
Share on other sites
Guys-

I think they are referring to the Tamiya spray cans, not the bottled paint. Trust me - if it hasn't happened to you yet, it will. Do yourself a favor and get yourself a spray can of Krylon auto primer. In addition to providing a bulletproof base for Alclad, it's easily sandable, and will hide minor imperfections in the plastic.

Cheers, ;)

Keywords: Alclad primer Tamiya Filak

Steve,

Do you have any problems with using Krylon and melting the plastic? I was always told it was too "HOT" to use on models because of the quick drying agent.

I have tried the grey primer and really had problems. Probably me... not the paint <_< .

Just wondering your thoughts.

Rod

Link to post
Share on other sites

this is my method, i use it for highly polished aclads and regular shades

i take the bare plastic, and rub it down with fine grade steel wool, and airbrush model master acryl clear gloss

it makes the surface as smooth as glass

i let it dry overnight

and airbrush the alclad over top it, looks perfectly smooth and very shiny

josh

Link to post
Share on other sites
Steve,

Do you have any problems with using Krylon and melting the plastic?  I was always told it was too "HOT" to use on models because of the quick drying agent.

I have tried the grey primer and really had problems.  Probably me... not the paint <_ .>

Just wondering your thoughts.

Rod

Rod-

I've never had a problem with Krylon primer. In fact, I don't even bother to decant it for airbrushing - I just shake up the can and spray away. It's never attacked any plastic I've sprayed it on. I like it because I can buff it up to a really nice smooth finish, and it's ready for Alclad in very short order (I usually wait about 20 minutes after I buff it out, but I'm not even sure if that's necessary).

I've tried the Tamiya Gloss Black route, only to find the entire surface of my Academy F-86 crackled after about three weeks. This was after I let the Tamiya paint cure for no less than three weeks before applying the Alclad. Luckily, there were enough cracks in the finish that I could strip it and start over, but it was frustrating to say the least.

The reason behind this is that Tamiya paints are closer to a latex than an acrylic, and retain a certain amount of flex long after they dry (in fact, I think the flex is perpetual). Alclad, on the other hand, sets up hard when dry, and has almost no flex. When you combine the two, and the paint underneath flexes or shifts, or expands/contracts from temperature differences, the end result is the crackled finish.

If you're feeling apprehensive about the Krylon primer, try misting a light coat on first, let it dry, and then spray additional light coats until you get complete coverage.

HTH! ;)

PS: Josh, glad to see you're up and around again! Are you feeling better yet? Hope you're back up to speed soon! ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites
I've tried the Tamiya Gloss Black route, only to find the entire surface of my Academy F-86 crackled after about three weeks. This was after I let the Tamiya paint cure for no less than three weeks before applying the Alclad. Luckily, there were enough cracks in the finish that I could strip it and start over, but it was frustrating to say the least.

The reason behind this is that Tamiya paints are closer to a latex than an acrylic, and retain a certain amount of flex long after they dry (in fact, I think the flex is perpetual). Alclad, on the other hand, sets up hard when dry, and has almost no flex. When you combine the two, and the paint underneath flexes or shifts, or expands/contracts from temperature differences, the end result is the crackled finish.

If you're feeling apprehensive about the Krylon primer, try misting a light coat on first, let it dry, and then spray additional light coats until you get complete coverage.

Steve,

Thanks for the insight. Have not had much luck w/ the Tamiya Black either, thought it was me.

Appreciate your response!

Rod

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...