I HATE...

[JimC]

I hate spraying white in any way, shape or form...

No white that I've used provides decent coverage, whether from a spray can

(Tamiya Fine White), decanted (same paint...what a PITB), stinky clean-up

from using lacquer-based paint, but what're ya gonna do?

I have sprayed Tamiya XF-2 (flat white), took four coats to almost cover

my 1/48 cockpit tub (as a primer.)

I am gonna try one more thing and then give up...Floquil Figure Primer. If that

doesn't work I'm gonna glue cockpits shut and paint them a dark smoke so ya

can't see insde, glue the landing gear doors up, and have every friggin' model

I build be an in-flight display. (I'm referring to the stuff in the can.)

Just to reiterate...I HATE PAINTING ANYTHING WHITE!!!

(Have I expressed myself succintly enough?)

Jim

[Sabre]

Hey Jim,

Used to dread anything white also....until...Testors flat white in a can for primer...then follow up with Testors gloss white in a can.

I take the pieces to work & spray the flat first, while leaving them in my closed vehicle....then at lunch, I shoot the gloss. The heat inside speeds the drying/curing process so that by the end of the day they're ready for the next step....weathering/installing, etc.

Hope this works as well for you as it does for me..

"First With Guns",

Jim

[FlyingSnowmew]

Any kind of white primer will give you any easy white coat. It will be flat, but for aircraft and armor purposes it can be easily gloss coated.

[FTWalker]

Floquil Reefer White.

Best white paint ever, IMO. Just give it a shot of Future/Klear if you want a gloss finish.

(It comes in those big bottles, too - a definite plus ;) )

[Old Blind Dog]

Guess I don't dread spraying white as much as you; granted, it can be a decided PITA, but I've found that I can get very good coverage with Polly Scale Reefer White (not to be confused with Floquil Reefer White which would be the ideal choice for non-acrylic users ).

First, I apply a primer coat of light gray (such as Tamiya Gray from a rattle can, or Polly Scale Undercoat Light Gray). I then thin the PS Reefer White with Tamiya X-20 A Thinner and spray at about 12-15 PSI using the color cup/gravity feed feature of my Badger 360.

I build up the paint in three to four relatively light coats. If I want a glossy surface I'll apply several additional thin coats (up to 8 or 10) along with two coats of Polly Scale Clear Gloss, then wet sand with MicroMesh.

Not a perfect solution, but I like the results a lot more than Tamiya acrylic flat or gloss white or Tamiya TS Pearl White from a rattle can.

Cheers

Old Blind Dog

Edited May 12, 2007 by Old Blind Dog

[toadwbg]

Good stuff above. I also prime first and/or a light sanding in larger surfaces. Floquil reefer white is my white of choice nowdays. If I want a gloss coat, I will do a thin top coat of Testor's Insignia white.

[The Keeper]

As said above, Floquil Reefer White gives the best flat white surface which you can leave flat or use as a primer for gloss. If you don't have an airbrush, the instructions for a light flat gray and then white would work well.

hth

[volzj]

Any kind of white primer will give you any easy white coat. It will be flat, but for aircraft and armor purposes it can be easily gloss coated.

Check. Nothing better.

I hate the odor, but deal with it because it's such a great product.

[Viperguy]

I use Testors Flat white, but I airbrush everything so it always comes out good. Sometimes I have to use a primer over darker models but that's the only time. ;)

[David Walker]

Floquil Reefer White.Best white paint ever, IMO.

As said above, Floquil Reefer White gives the best flat white surface which you can leave flat or use as a primer for gloss.

There's simply nothing that I've found that compares to this stuff. For the last five years or so that I've used it spraying white has been a breeze.

Edited May 13, 2007 by David Walker

[Rasczak]

i can't stand gloss whites. or many of the glosses for that matter. I was just fixing to start a thread about this too but someone beat me to it. Either way. I just finished spraying the landing gear on an bug and god bless it, the paint came out the way I hate. I always looks real grainy when i spray it. I don't know if I'm thinning it wrong or something, but I despise it.

[Chorse6]

I use Boyd's White Primer (which may be the same as Testors), then some Reefer White (if I a have it). Very easy and looks perfect.

[smithery]

Since discovering Citadel Skull White, I actually enjoy spraying white now.

All I do is spray a light grey primer, then the Skull White. It's a matte finish, but that's easily overcome.

And best of all it's a water based acrylic, so I don't have to explain those nasty fumes to SWMBO.

[TonyH]

Since discovering Citadel Skull White, I actually enjoy spraying white now.

All I do is spray a light grey primer, then the Skull White. It's a matte finish, but that's easily overcome.

And best of all it's a water based acrylic, so I don't have to explain those nasty fumes to SWMBO.

That Citadel Skull White,that's Warhammer paint right?

Tony

[toadwbg]

I just sprayed some Floquil Reefer white last night on my Revell Superhornet undercarriadge, turned out great.

I've also had some good luck with RustOlium white for plastic in a rattle can.

[Bails]

Here's a NEW one. Model Master's Header FLAT White LACQUER. It is from their Custom Lacquer System aimed mainly at the plastic car crowd. Prior to trying this Floquil Reefer White was also my fav. The MM lacquer, however, gives better coverage.....with less coats. I buy mine at Hobby Lobby. You can also buy it at the Testor's web site.

Bails-In-Minnesota

PS I believe the flat white is the only flat in the line. I also use their gloss black as a primer for Alcald II and its great.

bb

Edited May 13, 2007 by Bails

[Bobski]

God I hate spraying white. I avoid it at all costs, but unfortunately I have the following builds lined up:

Revell/Hasegawa Royal Navy Phantom FG.1 - with a white underside

Revell/Hasegawa RAF Phantom FGR.2 in Grey/Green - with a white underside

Tamiya Sea Harrier FRS.1 in pre-Falklands colours - with a white underside

Tamiya Harrier GR.1 - with a white underside

Airfix TSR.2 - All white!

Guess I shall have to to the Great Airbrushing God that the white goes on OK. Either that or just put them off while I build some F-15s.

[smithery]

That Citadel Skull White,that's Warhammer paint right?

Tony

Yup, sure is. Great paint to work with, and a fantastic line of acrylic metallics.

[TonyH]

Yup, sure is. Great paint to work with, and a fantastic line of acrylic metallics.

COOL!!! 2 of my boys have all those paints. Oh boys..........:)

Tony

[jonbryon]

I too used to hate airbrushing white, but have been converted to Gunze Mr Base White 1000. Amazingly opaque (can be done in one painting session, easily), goes over dark colours (like black) with no problem, dries in seconds, is extremely thin, has a semi-gloss finish. Perfection - what more could one want?

Cheers

Jon

Edited May 14, 2007 by jonbryon

[silverkite211]

For doing a large flat area, such as the underside of an aircraft, or painting intakes, spraying on numerous light coats has always worked for me. A trick for doing wheelwells that someone told me about is to spray the wheelwell yellow first, the yellow acts to highlight the corners and edges of the bulkheads that the paint tends to pull away from, it doesn't have to be a completely opaque coat, just enough so that the corners, nooks and crannies have been coated, then you shoot a coat of white, and, according to him, a single coat of white will do the job. He told me the opposite holds true, too, a light undercoat of white on a surface that is intended to be painted yellow. I saw some of his work, and it certainly seemed to work, though I admit that I've never tried it, mostly because I never seem to have any yellow around, when I'm going to be painting something white.

[martin_sam_2000]

For doing a large flat area, such as the underside of an aircraft, or painting intakes, spraying on numerous light coats has always worked for me. A trick for doing wheelwells that someone told me about is to spray the wheelwell yellow first, the yellow acts to highlight the corners and edges of the bulkheads that the paint tends to pull away from, it doesn't have to be a completely opaque coat, just enough so that the corners, nooks and crannies have been coated, then you shoot a coat of white, and, according to him, a single coat of white will do the job. He told me the opposite holds true, too, a light undercoat of white on a surface that is intended to be painted yellow. I saw some of his work, and it certainly seemed to work, though I admit that I've never tried it, mostly because I never seem to have any yellow around, when I'm going to be painting something white.

So I am going to pull up a thread form the dark deep corners of this forum. I have a coupld of upcoming comission builds and personal models that require massive amounts of white paint and I want to get a bit more responces to see if I am going in the right direction. I am planning to buy a can of the tamiya fine white primer. Am I right in assuming this will be enough to get a decent white coat?? I will gloss and flat coat as needed to get the fihish i am looking for. I do not want to go into airbrushing warer based paints and I am tired of the horrible results from MM paints.

Sean

[flyfort17]

Floquil Reefer White.

Best white paint ever, IMO. Just give it a shot of Future/Klear if you want a gloss finish.

(It comes in those big bottles, too - a definite plus :D )

I agree . I have tried all the brands and the reefer white works great. I wish they had a gloss.

[FlyingSnowmew]

Best white ever is Model Master lacquer white primer. You can sand it and polish it.

[BOC262]

He told me the opposite holds true, too, a light undercoat of white on a surface that is intended to be painted yellow. I saw some of his work, and it certainly seemed to work, though I admit that I've never tried it, mostly because I never seem to have any yellow around, when I'm going to be painting something white.

I always undercoat any area to be sprayed yellow or red with white first--it makes a huge difference with the way those colors appear, and it cuts down on the number of coats needed to get good coverage.

As for white alone, a friend of mine swears by an undercoat of silver (such as Floquil), followed by white. I'm going to try that the next time I need a white overcoat.