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I once gave TomcatFanatic123 a good brand of spray primer that is white in color, goes on thin, and is even sandable.

I used it on my 1/32 F-16C Arctic Cow Aggressor. :woot.gif:

This is it...

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(if3hvs55...age=1204395.jpg

Shake can vigorously for 2 minutes, hold about 8 inches away, move in quick passes. Build it up slowly, because it does have a little scratch-filling ability.

HTH

Anthony

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Floquil Reefer White.

Best white paint ever, IMO. Just give it a shot of Future/Klear if you want a gloss finish.

(It comes in those big bottles, too - a definite plus :woot.gif: )

It is the best. And if you need gloss white, never spray gloss white. Use floquil reefer white and gloss coat it!

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Sean,

As I've said many times in the past, as long as you don't have an aversion to using solvent-based paints, there really is no equal to Floquil Reefer white. I've used most every type of white enamel/lacquer out there, and the best consistent results have always been obtained by using Floquil. Give it a try; you won't be disappointed.

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My preferred weapons of choice are as follows:

First I usually use Tamiya Superfine White primer as it gives me a great surface to work with, regardless of color. I did try gloss white over Tamiya gray primer once and I hated it. Superfine White for a start is best for my uses.

For gloss white finishes on things such as Navy jets, Thunderbirds aircraft or other things, Tamiya gloss white in the spray can is what I follow it up with (Pure White I believe is the name). I like it because it dries nice, glossy and rock hard.

For doing gear struts and gear bay interiors, I whip out the ole airbrush and use Tamiya X-1 acrylic white in mist coats (thinned with Tamiya thinner). It builds up really nice and even and my brush settings atomize the paint nicely. I have found that you don't want to layer it too fast though or you can risk sink marks in the paint of sorts if you are doing it over a large coverage area. On small areas or parts with fine detail, it isn't really a problem though. It works fine, be it over raw plastic or primer and dries nice and hard as well. Wait two days for it to cure and it takes a smoke tint wash really nice too. I think part of the reason why X-1 works well thinned with Tamiya thinner is it has a retarding agent in the thinner to allow it to atomize better and not dry in the tip of the brush. It sprays about as well as some enamels I've used.

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I hate spraying white in any way, shape or form...

No white that I've used provides decent coverage, whether from a spray can

(Tamiya Fine White), decanted (same paint...what a PITB), stinky clean-up

from using lacquer-based paint, but what're ya gonna do?

I have sprayed Tamiya XF-2 (flat white), took four coats to almost cover

my 1/48 cockpit tub (as a primer.)

I am gonna try one more thing and then give up...Floquil Figure Primer. If that

doesn't work I'm gonna glue cockpits shut and paint them a dark smoke so ya

can't see insde, glue the landing gear doors up, and have every friggin' model

I build be an in-flight display. (I'm referring to the stuff in the can.)

:woot.gif::cheers: :)

Just to reiterate...I HATE PAINTING ANYTHING WHITE!!!

(Have I expressed myself succintly enough?)

Jim

Join the club, my friend. Join the club :bandhead2:!

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I'm in the UK and used Halfords Appliance White Acrylic Gloss aerosol on these models.

Revell_ConcordeFlag.jpg

For best results I heat the aerosol in a jug of warm water. DON'T DO THIS IN YOUR HOUSE - I've popped the concave base on more that one occasion.

Airfix_BABoeing737.jpg

I can't use this stuff on a cold or wet day - it absorbes moisture and blooms.

Revell_Beluga002.jpg

Halfords is a car spares/accessories store, and the appliance White is intended for fridges and cookers.

I matt varnished over it for this TSR-2

Airfix_TSR2002.jpg

Still stinks though - so I leave it all in my shed for the rest of the day.

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  • 2 weeks later...

i hate white yellow, red and orange, they are a pain in the *** in no uncertain words, but i paint with an auto primer that essentially dries flat for sanding and for detail

im currently working on a plane as a challenge to get out f a rut.... i found that testors flat white, then a bottle of mixed 50% of flat and gloss, and then gloss thinned at 12-15 psi seems to go on well so far...... i just have to learn better sanding/time skills between coats, and to keep cat out of spray booth

bill

Join the club, my friend. Join the club :D!
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Coming from a modeling "newby", here are some things I've noticed about spraying white paint....at least for me personally.

#1. Typically I thin white too much. I don't know why that is. Perhaps white is thinner than other paints by the same manufacturer; I don't know. What I do know is that I have a tendency to over-thin it. It could even be attributed to the appearance that it is thicker when I'm mixing it up.

#2. I forget gloss white altogether. I spray flat white on anything that needs white and then put gloss over it. Sure, it is an extra step, but I don't have to worry about it looking like crap and puddling on me.

#3. You have to use light-misty passes. I have a double action airbrush, so controlling the amount of paint that comes out is very easy once you get the hang of it. Several light passes, then you can feel free to spray it a little heavier.

All of my gear bays and intakes get the flat white treatment, then I go back and gloss them. It looks just as good and I don't have to worry about screaming i anger while I'm working on a model late at night and waking my wife and baby up.

Maybe one of these will help you.

JED

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A couple people already mentioned it and I've been saying it for a long time whenever the subject comes up: Get yourself a can of Tamiya's Surface Primer (White.)

I too, at one time, used to fear painting white but no longer. Now anytime I have to paint white I look at the plastic and say, "Let's rumble!" I spray 2-3 light coats. Don't spray it on too wet. Since it's a rattle can it can probably be easy to spray too much on. A couple misty passes work for me with a few minutes to dry in between each pass. The important thing to remember is patience and realize it should take you about three coats.

Most times I only use the Primer for white because it's also good enough for a final coat. But at times I will follow up with say a gloss white from a bottle and most recently on some F-104 wings, I used a final coat from a Tamiya rattle can gloss white. But at minimum, get this (White) Surfacer for at least a base coat to your white and any other troubling color such as yellow.

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK guys,

I'm about to paint my 1/48th Cessna Citation white. I've read through this thread and it seems that most people like either Floquil or Tamiya. My problem is: I don't have access to either of those lines of paint. Should I give Rust-Oleum a try? I also have access to Testors paints.

Thanks,

John

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I have just painted a Tamiya Swordfish which was overall white. I used Tamiya Surface white Primer for rthe first time. I am very impressed with it and will certainly be using it again.

It goes on very smoothly. I then sprayed the kit with some Humbrol Glosscote and the white went nice and glossy ready for decals.

Great stuff

Andrew :thumbsup:

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After years of delusions I found a way to use the gloss white.

First I use Humbrol's enamel white gloss.

I add few drops of BLUE to prevent the yellowing (and it look as a really working trick).

Then I sprayed it mixing approximately at 50/50 with a generic thinner (not Humbrol) reducing the air pressure to the minimum.

For the first time I do not get any spray overrun and the coverage was fantastic too with a SINGLE hand of paint.

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I was set on FLoquil Reefer White for a long time, it has been tried and true as covering without obscuring...however...I have a new lover! Gunze Mr. Hobby has an Off-White that has instantly replace RW. It is semi gloss, covers same or better than RW, and isn't stark arctic white giving a slight hint of aging. Gordon has this line now and all of these paints shoot great; I sand them with 8000 lightly and enjoy a surface ready to decal with no futuring required. And I even lover the smell!

Edited by metroman
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