dprice18af Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 I have a few questions for the pros. I have just airbrushed a model with Model Master Acrylics and let it sit for a few days. I masked it for the next layer. When I was removing the masks the paint pilled off. I did not use a primer, however; I did clean it well before painting. What did I do wrong? I tried to control the airbrush so the paint went on wet and I thinned it. How do I get passed this problem? My next question is what is the best way to strip acrylic paint? Is there a way to strip the acrylic without it affecting Alclad II paints? I did a smashing job on the engine and I do not want to redo that part. Any help or advice would be great. Thank you, Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mlicari Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 I've never had to strip MM Acryl before, so I can't answer your second question. But I can address your probable issue in the first question. What sort of tape did you use? Acrylics generally are less durable than enamels, so masking needs some more care. MM Acryl have a reputation of being less adhesive. I use them nearly exclusively and ceased having your problem when I switched to an extremely low-tack masking tape (30-Day Perfect Release by the brand Duck). I too do not prime (I don't even wash the plastic), and I have yet to pull up paint with that tape. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dprice18af Posted June 5, 2007 Author Share Posted June 5, 2007 I use Tamiya masking tape. Would it help to spray a clear coat on the first layer before masking? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mlicari Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 No, I don't think a clear coat on the paint would help, since the real problem is that the paint isn't adhering to the plastic well enough. A clear flat coat under the paint would probably help the paint "bite" a bit better. Easiest thing to do would be to switch tape. Tamiya tape is expensive anyway. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gambit3131 Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 (edited) My next question is what is the best way to strip acrylic paint? Is there a way to strip the acrylic without it affecting Alclad II paints? I did a smashing job on the engine and I do not want to redo that part. Any help or advice would be great. You can use window cleaner (w/ammonia) to strip the acrylic paint. Use a toothbrush also, it should strip rather easily. Since the Aclad is a laquer (I think) the window cleaner should not affect it. I use a generic brand of window clearner rather than Windex. $0.97/bottle compared to $2.50 Edited June 5, 2007 by gambit3131 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dprice18af Posted June 6, 2007 Author Share Posted June 6, 2007 Windex huh. I will give it a try. Thank you for all the info. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScottD Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 I've had problems with Windex not taking off testors alyric paint...alcohl works much better but will take off the Alclad also... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
raptor22 Posted June 6, 2007 Share Posted June 6, 2007 I use MM acrylic almost 90% of the time... and it is something that you have to deal with: it's lack of "bite" onto the plastic when peeling the mask off. What I like to do is (in addition to cleaning the entire fuselage before painting), before I apply the Tamiya tape (if that is what you are using) mask on, I put the piece of tape on a t-shirt or a piece of cloth and pull it off and repeat several times. That removes some of the tackiness of the tape. Then I apply the mask and burnish the edges, but not the center of the tape. After I am done painting and the paint has cured, I slowly and carefully remove the tape off bit by bit, rather than one strong pull of the tape. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScottD Posted June 7, 2007 Share Posted June 7, 2007 You can use window cleaner (w/ammonia) to strip the acrylic paint. Use a toothbrush also, it should strip rather easily. Since the Aclad is a laquer (I think) the window cleaner should not affect it. I use a generic brand of window clearner rather than Windex. $0.97/bottle compared to $2.50 I've found that that Generic brands aren't as strong as Windex. I've gotten Target Brand window cleaner that looks similar but its "weaker" in strength then windex, as if its been watered down slightly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Hingtgen Posted June 7, 2007 Share Posted June 7, 2007 Try priming with a Testor's spray can. MM acryl has INCREDIBLE adhesion to MM enamel etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dprice18af Posted June 7, 2007 Author Share Posted June 7, 2007 I think I am to the point of switching to another brand of Paint. What is the best acrylic brand? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volzj Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 Try priming with a Testor's spray can. MM acryl has INCREDIBLE adhesion to MM enamel etc. Yes, its much better. It's adhesion to raw plastic is probably the worst of any acrylic I've tried. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Hingtgen Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 Some days I just can't get any acrylic to stick. On my Revell F-15E, both Tamiya and Acryl flaked off all over the cockpit---and I soaked and scrubbed it and used rubbing alcohol and everything else to prep the plastic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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