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lgl007

Scribing Panel Lines...

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Hi guys,

I currently use the Tamiya Scribing tool (Plastic Scriber) which kinda looks like a hook... anyhow I really don't like using it... I find it cumbersom and it really lacks control... /shrug

What cribing tools do you all use? I just want to improve on the exisiting engraved panel lines on the Hase F4-G...

Thanks.

-Greg

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Chalk up another one under the sewing needle in a pin vise category.

I use a fat needle and chuck it so only about .25" (6 mm) stick out.

Pete

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I use a slightly worn #11 xacto blade turned sideways. Provides a very sharp v shaped point that removes a thin hair of plastic with each pass.

When using templates for circles/access panels etc.. I go the needle route.

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Brilliant needle idea.... gotta try that one out =)

Thanks guys...

-Greg

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me 3, i too use the sewing needle in the pin vise. works great. i also have a very flexible piece of metal that i use for a straight edge. i got it from an art store in the drafting section but i can't remember the name of it now. good luck. later.

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I have the Squadron scribing tool, I like it. Like the above mentioned X-acto blade method it rolls out a fine ribbon of plastic.

That thin flexible straight edge found in the drafting section is probably an "erasing shield", used to cover what you DON'T want to erase in tight spaces.

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Like many others I use a sewing needle locked into a light-weight pin vise. This works very well in conjunction with Dymo tape used as a straight-edge. I also recently invested in a Verlinden scribing template (1/72) for odd shapes, and consider it money well spent.

:thumbsup:

Old Blind Dog

Edited by Old Blind Dog

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I use two things, Sir.

First, needle in a pin-vise.

Second, a new No. 11 blade, pushed forward, point first.

The key to both, and I suspect to any, tools used, is a light hand, and a willingness to go over the line several times with as little pressure on each pass as you can manage to apply, letting the groove, once it is started, guide the tool. To get rid of any raised ridges on the sides, I will run the No. 11 blade along the groove, with the point in and the blade at right angles to the line, again very, very lightly.

I use stock styrene strip backed by double-faced tape to guide scoring in the initial groove with the needle; a sort of improvised Dymo-Tape.

Once the line is in, flowing a little solvent-glue into it will smooth it out and get it looking more professional.

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