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Hi one and all, thanks for being there. IM, technical yes, but not an engineer. When I look back perhaps I would have been more suited to that, than an analytical/organic research chemist!

With all the different enamel colours required/drying time (yeah detail is great, but then you’ve got to paint it :cheers: ) for the seat, made a start on the canopy.

The cut-outs to the inner plastic parts were made by drilling a series of holes and then joined-up using a smaller drill, in pin vice, as a rat-tail file. For long/open cuts used a ground down jnr hacksaw blade.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/42a.jpg

It will be easier to fix detail to plastic than the acetate canopy. Using Dymo tape and homemade fine scriber (0.25mm width), the ‘division’ of the two sections was scribed until an even mark showed on the inside. Combined sections removed from surround, sanded, then front and rear sections separated using a new SM No10 blade; supported inside with finger protected with 2/3 thicknesses of masking tape.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/44a.jpg

Just about used quota of patience for this year.

BFM

John

Edited by John Wolstenholme
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Just about used quota of patience for this year.

Well it's a good thing the year is almost up and you'l have a whole new supply of Patiences for the up comming year when it starts in a few weeks :thumbsup:

Keep it up

Jim

Edited by Hornet78
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Wow, thanks everyone for all the interest. Going to be catching up on what some of you have been up to, when I take a break on completion of the seat. Yeah Jim, looking forward to new quota from 1-08.

Bob, this is the best £12 I have spent; made a lot of multi-purpose/ specific ‘tools’.

A.jpg

Using some 3.2mm silver steel rod, first ground to a rectangular section about 1mm thick. Cut ‘crook’ at rear with edge of wheel, then front shaped to form cutting edge. When I was happy with the shape (cutting action checked on scrap plastic), reduced thickness of scriber to 0.25mm. Need to keep cooling in water. When finished, cutting edge re-tempered with microburner (another useful piece of kit) and 'dunked'. If you don’t, cutting point is easily damaged.

HTH

John

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G'day. Well Symantec NIS is great until it suddenly decides not to work, then it is a royal PITA.

and finally........

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/45a.jpg

Tried a couple of different approaches for emergency 'handles'.

Manual separation handle. Painted yellow (part) and a single 0.5mm strip of black decal wrapped around to produce stripes; second piece along top of handle.

Seat pan and face screen handles. Above method would not work for smaller dia. handles. Painted black and wrapped 0.5mm strips of Tamiya tape around handles; sealed with CA. This gave a weak yellow, but was used to over paint.

Probably repaint lap straps to match to match leg restarints (paper). Anybody got other (better) ideas for leg restraints?

So that's it for a while, have a good Crimbo and NY.

Regards

John

Edited by John Wolstenholme
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I agree with upupandaway John, the seat looks magnificent.

Somehow, all of the colours and textures give it fantastic depth. Mounted on a scale seat base it would be difficult to tell from a full sized item. Now that it's painted it's easy to forget just how much scratch building and hard work went into this.

I think the face curtain handles are amongst the most realistic I've ever seen. Have you weathered the back rest and pull handles slightly or is it shadows from the photography? Either way it looks good!

One last question......with all of that lovely texture and rivet detail on the seat frame, are there any plans afoot to add a mid/light-grey wash to bring out the detail at all? Just curious you understand.......

:coolio:

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  • 1 month later...

i dont know how i missed this thread!!

you are doing some amazing work, everything you have done is top notch and very inspirational!!! i love the wheel bays and the seat, and the intakes and fans, and the exausts, and the wings, and the....everything!!

cant wait to see the next update!, im subscribing to this thread for sure!

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G'day. Well Symantec NIS is great until it suddenly decides not to work, then it is a royal PITA.

and finally........

45a.jpg

Tried a couple of different approaches for emergency 'handles'.

Manual separation handle. Painted yellow (part) and a single 0.5mm strip of black decal wrapped around to produce stripes; second piece along top of handle.

Seat pan and face screen handles. Above method would not work for smaller dia. handles. Painted black and wrapped 0.5mm strips of Tamiya tape around handles; sealed with CA. This gave a weak yellow, but was used to over paint.

Probably repaint lap straps to match to match leg restarints (paper). Anybody got other (better) ideas for leg restraints?

So that's it for a while, have a good Crimbo and NY.

Regards

John

I use lead foil for garters. It is easily "molded" into shape. Looks more natural than paper. For belts, I double the foil to have it a bit thicker.

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Hi Dave, UU&A, GL, Geedub, rj, Harold, RS and anyone else tuning-in. Many thanks for your calls, support and interest.

I needed a break from this build. Whilst it will not be the best Lightning model ever made, my goal is to build the best that I can achieve, but there is a price to be paid for this. I ‘ave a cunning plan for the cockpit, but at this time do not feel psyched-up for it. If it goes wrong it could be the end of the model! This is what the cockpit tub options look like at the moment:

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/47.jpg

Whilst the Echelon tub may lack the fine detail, it essentially looks correct. The Flightpath tub looks completely wrong in terms of the left and right consoles.

Guy, to answer your question regarding ‘washes’ to seat. What I did was to lightly brush dry pastels onto the matt paints (eg seat cushion, back rest) to simulate wear/use. You have to go easy as it is impossible to completely remove, as on gloss. Whilst additional washes (overall), do bring out more detail, it can look artistic, rather than realistic.

There are a number of ‘smaller’ items which have been started, so I am going to finish these first to get back into the saddle

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/4a.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/49.jpg

#1 Cut slot with jnr hacksaw blade, for capping with oversized 10 thou card (rudder) and 5 thou card (fin). 5 thou spacer, to be removed when cappings set, used to produce gap.

#2 Deep scribe, without going through plastic, aft edge (rudder) rounded using 600W&D (dry)

#3 Broad joint allowed thinning of TE to ~ 0.3mm, from original ~1.5mm at root. Applied some 5 min epoxy inside in case it sanded through.

#4 0.25mm card applied to base; vacformed rounded edge evident by grey filler. Bottom of fin had been ‘opened’ to fit fuselage, then applied 0.25mm card, centre removed which made it easier to shape inside.

#5 Panel lines over-scribed, overall rub down with W&D.

BFN

John

Edited by John Wolstenholme
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I can't believe i missed this build :thumbsup: . This is some of the best modelling i have seen in a very long time, and one of my favorite British jets. Lightning would be one of the only jets i would build apart from a couple of others.

Simon

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Hello Simon, Jake and Agelos. RJ, unfortunately, the only wine I drink is homebrewed, so that knocks that on the head :D

Got the o/w tanks finished and ready for painting.

#1 Sanded base of pylon to offset 0.25mm card; filled/sanded to produce square edges. The vacformed rounded edges are evident from the grey filler.

#2 2.5mm rod for locating/mounting tanks.

#3 Detail added using 5 thou card.

#4 Re-scribed panels, using 4No short lengths of Dymo tape; radii freehand.

#5 Wide joint ensures you can sand to a thin TE.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/48.jpg

DOES ANYONE IN THE UK KNOW where one can buy Methyl Ethyl Ketone. Tried Hardware store, DIY, Plumbers, Chemist. £4 for 25ml at your LHS is not on.

BFN

John

Edited by John Wolstenholme
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