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Lock n' Load: The details don't really weigh all that much, and the Beast was known for its robust gear (when it wasn't collapsing, that is :) ). I'm not too worried about it.

geedubelyer: Thanks so much, buddy! I really wanted to solder those joints, but there was a lot of styrene in the way. I wouldn't want to melt the dang thing! Also, I use a Coleman Cold Heat soldering pencil for stuff like that- it works via electrical conductivity, and the copper has a coating of some kind that insulates it. The lines aren't under any stress and will be well-protected once I glue Part #1 to Part #2.

To everybody else- Thanks for reading along- I'm really glad you're enjoying my happy compulsion. :banana: I've got Christmas to New Years off- and guess what I'll be doing? :lol:

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Thanks, guys!

Well, I've gotten all my shopping, decorating, gift wrapping and cleaning done, so it's time for some Christmas Eve modeling! I worked up the gunner's port sidewall today- lots of photo examination gave me a basic idea of how the reserve hydraulic system worked. The central part was a reservoir tank, linked to a selector switch and a hand-operated wobble pump. I started with the tank.

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Here's an overall view- the body of the pump came from a plastic model railroad part, a classic tip from modeling grandmaster Shep Paine.

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The selector switch is a simple assembly of styrene bits. Pre-drilling holes will greatly help when fitting the wire plumbing.

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Plumbing commences. I have no idea what that puch is, but is in the photo, so... ;)

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After some practice the wirebending gets to be a lot of fun!

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Here's the assembly all knitted together. I'll add the actual pump handle later, to spare myself the fun of breaking it off and regluing, breaking it off and regluing, ... :thumbsup:

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More to follow in the coming days- until then, Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all!

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Thanks, Guys- and a Happy New Year to you!

A lot of folks have been saying how much they appreciate the how-to end of this build, so this installment is for them! Photo-etch can seem like some mystic art if you you've never tried it before, but it's really not that tough- all you need are the right tools. I use the Mission Models Etch-Mate and love it, but I know several guys who work wonders with a pair of flat-jawed pliers alone. This series of photos will show you the basics of bending PE, so read along as I build up the rear gunner's ammo boxes. Apologies if you've heard this one before! ;D

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That's high praise indeed coming from a modeling Uber-Dude like you, Zactoman- garsh! Hope things are treating you well out there in the Heartland- 70's and balmy here in the Southland... :D

Cheers to you, geedubelyer- :cheers:

On of the focal points of any military planes is the gun turret- there's just something visceral about a pair of menacing machine guns that makes the inner child run around buzzing "rat-tat-tat!" I started working on the rear gunner's seat and ring and, well, my inner child took over. I've found good reference, and that always makes the kit parts look a little sparse to my AMS eye. Iwas really only going to replace the telescoping elevation leg...

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Brass was the answer, and that meant breaking out my soldering gear!

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While I had the gear out, why not replace the seat mounting frame? I couldn't sleep last night (partying neighbors), and thought this process through.

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Chuck I have to tell youI am enjoying your updates. Not only are they informative, but entertaining to boot. I think what you are doing is more difficult than scratchbuilding an entire model, as you are forced to work with something designed and molded by someone else, and have to work around their limitations. My T4M is a piece of cake in comparison because I made everythingto fit as I go. I can understand why your little charicature you draw is bald... lol.

Just a quick question regarding your soldering iron. I use a small tipped unit for better control. How does the big tip on the Coldsolder iron work for control? Kind of a stupid question when I look at your results, but inquiring minds want to know.

Cheers

Mike

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Geez, Hazmatt- I won't be 49 for a couple of weeks! ;D Thanks, man!

Skyking- I don't believe a word of it, you silver-tongued devil! You're a master builder bringing a new airplane to life from raw material- all I'm doing is adding a layer of stuff to a kit that's already there. I stand in awe of your modeling skills and problem-solving panache- cheers, brother!

The big tip is no problem- it's some kind of fiber and very light, plus, it has a groove in the end that helps align it to the work.

regevmo- I like this gizmo for small jobs- it's feather-light, cordless and solders in a flash. On the down side, it can run through the AA's if your doing a lot of joining. On the plus, a regular iron takes too long to heat the part and a torch will vaporize PE- as I learned to my sorrow and embarrassment- read on!

Meanwhile, back in rear pit, Gunner Joey Olafson is getting tired of standing out on the wing, so let's get that seat put together. Styrene to the rescue!

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I tried to de-solder one of the two- left-handed armor plates with a butane torch- bad move! The part was largely burned up! I made another armor panel form styrene, but in comparing and test-fitting the parts I felt they weren't long enough- Joey deserves decent armor protection from those deadly Zero attacks! I made two all-new armor panels- penance for my flub with the torch...

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This PE part needed some support, as well as beefing up in the thickness department. Man, do I hate to bend music wire! I've got all these little stab wounds in my fingertips- be careful, kids.

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Using a jig is the best way to assemble the fiddley bits- and this was fiddely! :thumbsup:

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In the end, I think this was worth it, but whew!

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Outstanding Chukw. A miniature model going into a bigger model, that's what it's all about.

Question again Chukw, I notive you use a paste flux for soldering. Do you pickle the brass after to neutralize the flux? In the past I've had problems with paint sticking to PE I've soldered, then a fellow club member told me to dunk my parts into vinegar after to neutralize the flux. Worked like a charm.

I'm going to have to get one of these Coldheat irons and try it out. Do they have replacable tips?

Cheers

Mike

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