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I have never applied a wash before and had a couple of questions. I use Gunze and MM paints, so after painting and then applying future:

How long do you let the future dry before applying the wash?

Do I use gloss black really thinned down?

How long do I let the wash dry for before removing with q-tips?

What kind of thinner do you dip the q-tips in to remove the wash and does it hurt the future coating?

Or, any on line step by step artilces on how to apply a wash would be much appreciated.

Thank so much.

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I have never applied a wash before and had a couple of questions. I use Gunze and MM paints, so after painting and then applying future:

How long do you let the future dry before applying the wash?

Do I use gloss black really thinned down?

How long do I let the wash dry for before removing with q-tips?

What kind of thinner do you dip the q-tips in to remove the wash and does it hurt the future coating?

Or, any on line step by step artilces on how to apply a wash would be much appreciated.

Thank so much.

Just a few quick responces:

-let the Future dry for 24 hrs (better safe than sorry) and use two coats (same remarks)

-yes use gloss black really thinned (use browns or greys too but key is GLOSS not flat)

-wait min 12 hrs for enamel washes to dry (see remarks about Future coat dry time)

-use regular thinner (white spirits) but be sparing (damp not dripping) and don't scrub too hard

Works pretty good. I've recently had some good success with acrylic sluge washes.

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Just my 2 1/2 cents. I use artist oils (not acrylic) thinned with turpnoid over a coat of future. Drying time is 4-6 hours depending on humidity. Then I wipe with Q-tip or those little square cotton thingies the Mrs. Huey Gunner uses to remove make up. Usually I dont have to use any turpnoid at all when wiping, but even if I did, Futre is Turpnoid proof. Remember, Future was made to be walked on, it's pretty tough stuff.

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I just read an article on washes, this guy builds great models. He advises he used MM Burnt Umber as it is not as strong as a contract as Black, the pictures look great. He sometimes mixes greys or other colors depending on aircraft and theatre and paint scheme.

My question is my understanding is when you use an enamal wash the paint needs to be GLOSS...is MM Burnt Umber #2005 not a flat paint????

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I just read an article on washes, this guy builds great models. He advises he used MM Burnt Umber as it is not as strong as a contract as Black, the pictures look great. He sometimes mixes greys or other colors depending on aircraft and theatre and paint scheme.

My question is my understanding is when you use an enamal wash the paint needs to be GLOSS...is MM Burnt Umber #2005 not a flat paint????

It doesn't NEED to be gloss. Artist oils dry flat. Most people I know use flat paint. Some people have a preference for gloss. I don't know why, but I'm sure we'll both know soon. Edited by Huey Gunner
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I use oil paint highly thinned with Zippo lighter fluid over Johnson's Kleaer (Future). I often only wait a couple of hours before applying the wash. When thinned with lighter fluid the oil paint dries quickly. You don't want to wait longer than 30 mins before removing with a Q-tip or cotton rag. I don't moisten the rag or Q-tip with thinners unless necessary.

When done, it looks something like this:

Mirage3CJ_008.jpg

HTH

Jon

Edited by jonbryon
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Can you use an Acrylic wash (Tamiya/Gunze+Dishsoap) over an Acrylic gloss coat like Tamiya Clear or Future?

Very much so. I use Pollyscale and/or Vallejo for my colours as they are "truer" acrylics that Tamiya or Gunze from what I have been told.

Certainly I have had better results with them.

For my armour builds, I use oils and pastel washes, using artists turps as the carrier.

:D

MikeJ

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Plug time........

Hi, we make the Promodellers weathering wash. The easiest way to do panel washes and full weathering

You can use it on any type of paint direct without the need for a clear coat.

You can use it on gloss, satin and even flat finishes and it will still come off unlike all the other washes.

You take as much off the wash as you like and leave some on for weathering.

Full details are on the website at http://www.promodeller.com/promodellers-weathering-wash/ there are videos of how it work and more pics.

Here's how it works

The wash comes in two colours Light and Dark dirt, you can mix them together to make the right colour for you.

WashPic2.jpg

Simply brush it straight on to your model

DSCF5626.jpg

Let it dry (20mins) and then wipe off with a damp cloth.

DSCF5630.jpg

Thats it, that simple.

DSCF5632.jpg

PromodellersweatheringwashRafalesma.jpg

You can also use the wash for anywhere on the model from wheel wells to cockpits. You can use it on anything, cars, trains, boats, tanks, figures and on and on.

Thanks

Phil

Edited by Phil_Flory
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I really appreciate all the tips and advice. I did some tests with old kits that had lots of engraving in them. First I sprayed Gunze Dark Ghost Grey and then applied 3 layers of thin Future. I only waited an hour and then applied Model Master Burnt Umber wash highly thinned with Testors Brush cleaner, left that for an hour and then removed with Q-Tips using the Testor brush cleaner than flat coated, no problems at all. So my question is why do most modelers wait 24 hours between painting, gloss coating, washing, removing wash, I had no problems at all only using 1 hour intervals.

I did the same thing with Model Master Dark Ghost Grey but should of waited much longer for drying time of the paint. I also found the gloss coat was not as smooth and nice as when applying future over Gunze semi gloss paints.

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I really appreciate all the tips and advice. I did some tests with old kits that had lots of engraving in them. First I sprayed Gunze Dark Ghost Grey and then applied 3 layers of thin Future. I only waited an hour and then applied Model Master Burnt Umber wash highly thinned with Testors Brush cleaner, left that for an hour and then removed with Q-Tips using the Testor brush cleaner than flat coated, no problems at all. So my question is why do most modelers wait 24 hours between painting, gloss coating, washing, removing wash, I had no problems at all only using 1 hour intervals.

I did the same thing with Model Master Dark Ghost Grey but should of waited much longer for drying time of the paint. I also found the gloss coat was not as smooth and nice as when applying future over Gunze semi gloss paints.

Hi MESHER

the reson why you will get various opinions on the amount of time to wait is simply due to the variables that don't get mentioned here. With enamel washes it works because the acrylic protective coat (Future or whatever) is cured to the extent that it will prevent the highly thinned wash (white spirits, turpenoid, napththa, etc..) from eating its way through - firstly when it is applied - and then sometime later when the excess is cleaned away.

Just think...what type and thickness of acrlyic clear coat did you use...whats the ambient humidity & temperature...how long did it have to dry...what exact ration of paint & thinner did you use for the wash... how much of the solvent in the wash had evaporated when you started to clean off the excess... what tool /technique did you use... just how much solvent was used at that step.

Having never gotten things to work out exactly the same way twice, you learn to take fewer risks- thats simply the short of it. Do what works and adapt when necessary.

btw, gloss paints tends to work better because of the pigment is usualy finer then the pigment found in flat paints; not necessarily true all the time but oftain enough for me

hth's

stan in yul

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  • 4 years later...

I'm about to get ready to apply washes to my model, I'm having a really hard time deciding which method I should go with, I want to use pastels but at the same time the sludge wash looks very good as well, so um thinking: pastels for the top and sludge for the bottom... the model is the spitfire mk xiv e. Any help with how to make them would be appreciated.

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I too am reading and trying to digest, and understand all the methods. I'm not new to building models, but I'm new to building them with all the additional resources and tips and tricks to make it look as realistic as I can. I've seen on a few places that dark pastel chalk with water and dish soap is a cheap method and works fairly well. I bought the pastel chalks just for this reason, and after reading here, I'm wondering if perhaps there's a more solid method, or if this is going to work as well as any of the other methods. I know it's based on individual opinions and experience, but I wanted to just run this method past you all and see if it sounds logical to expect good results with just the water and chalk powder.

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Mesher et al., Go back to the post by Phil Flory. I purchased 3 different colors of his product. With those 3 bottles, I can make about any color of wash that I want to use. I have used several types of washes, and I really like the Promodeller line of washes. Oil washes are great, but they take so long to dry. After getting used to the Promodeller washes, they are pretty much bulletproof. Good luck.

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