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Hasegawa 1/48 AV-8B Harrier II+


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Had so much fun doing the last one, going to do another for myself. Not in flight this time though. Will be my 4th Harrier in 1/48 and have learned a lot - enough to know all the pitfalls with this kit now and the best way to avoid/resolve them.

Aicraft that is the subject of this build.

09940_2012-07-18.jpg

Going to use the Aires pit this time as there will be no pilot involved. Still need to finish detailing seat and instrument panel before paint.

1_2012-07-18.jpg

Outer wings removed to solve excessive kink issue. Port ALE-47 dispensers removed and housing made with sheet styrene. Saw this trick somewhere on the net and decided to improve on it. On the real aircraft, these housings are 6" deep. Added the holes for the mounting screws on the recessed sides for some extra detail.

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Underside with gun pods fitted. Have improved the gun nozzle by removing the moulded inner part of the fairing and open up the barrels and gun port.

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Close up of the scratchbuilt ALE-47 housings.

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Kit LITENING pod with new intake opening, added seeker head panel line and rivets and electrical connectors.

5_2012-07-18.jpg

More to follow...

Edited by CraigSargent
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Looking good! Marcin Witkowski elsewhere on this forum scratchbuilt his flare-chaff launchers from sheets of brass cut in a comb-shape, to interlock and form the walls of the dispenser. Would something like that work for the Harriers, or do they use for-sure the round dispenser tubes instead of the square blocks?

Also, you've referred to a kink in the wings - what is it, if I can ask? I hadn't run across it yet, and I'm curious to learn about potential problems before I get around to my own Harrier someday. (like, for example, the angle problem in the 1/48 Raptors)

Edited by Icchan
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I saw the nice work by Marcin, but the Harrier uses different inserts than the F-16, so would use the round ones. I do have some very nice etched parts of the correct type that would fit over them, but the idea is to show them without the dispensers fitted on that side.

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Small update, with pics to follow. Have fitted the wings now as well as the compressor face/intake duct piece. Just finished trying to correct the Hasegawa LITENING - there are a number of issues with this item compared to the real thing and I've added a little more detail to try and improve it.

There are also some reinforcing plates present on this aircraft which I have added using 5 thou card.

I've also decided on the loadout. As the previous two Harriers I've finished have both been carrying 2 tanks and LITENING with a GBU-16 and GBU-38 respectively, this one is going to be carrying tha same load, but the GBU will be replaced by an AGM-65. Have ordered a set of Wolfpack LAU-117/A rails, which will leave some LAUs over for my F/A-18D and A-10 builds (you get 4 per pack).

Edited by CraigSargent
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  • 4 years later...

Wow, nearly 5 years since I last posted on this. Time for an update I guess.

As there have been some issues with the site the initial images were hosted on, I have updated the first post. Construction picks up below from where I left off all those years ago.

Edited by CraigSargent
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Decided I wanted the boarding steps open on this one as well, so I carefully chain drilled and cut out the steps, thinned the fuselage behind the steps, and then backed with some 5 thou card. Cockpit base colours had already been painted before the Harrier was put away in the box all those years ago.

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Overall shot with nose, intakes and refuelling probe fitted.

p1.jpg

The finished stores awaiting paint. I've added the thermal ablative coating peculiar to US Navy bombs on the JDAM and Paveway bombs. The JDAM is from a Hasegawa weapons set, and I have added a new nose plug, and the clips that hold the guidance kit in place on the nose. The Paveway is from a Tamiya F-16. On the drop tanks I have added the missing electrical and fuel hook ups, and added pads to the sway braces on the pylons. The top tank is glued to the pylon as they will be the same colour, but the other tank will be a different colour so has not been attached.

s0.jpg

Close up of the weapons showing changes and the ablative coating applied with a stiff brush and some Mr Surfacer 1000.

s1.jpg

View of the painted intake and compressor face. I turned the angle of attack probe (white pointy bit) from some styrene rod in the Dremel. Also another view of the extended refuelling probe. The tip is missing as I have a Master Models turned aluminium NATO refuelling probe to add to it yet.

s2.jpg

Another view of the probe, and the replacement GPS brick, as well as the painted cockpit awaiting the seat and instrument panel.

s3.jpg

The wing with decreased "kink" and the modified underwing pylons. The middle pylon has had the feet added to the sway braces, and the outer pylon has had the sway braces removed as is the norm when the LAU rails are fitted.

s4.jpg

Edited by CraigSargent
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Cockpit instrument panel installed and painted, and HUD built up from Aires etch and kit styrene parts sanded thin and polished.

ud1.JPG

View from the other side. I have used some holographic film on the multifunction display faces, which you can just see below the instrument coaming giving a sort of greenish reflection. I have also fitted the Master Models refuelling probe tip, which has had a wash and the end tinted dark metal.

ud2.JPG

Coaming was painted black, given a wash with oil paints and then drybrushed. HUD glass edges and reflector were painted with thinned Gunze clear green to simulate glass.

LITENING pod painted and washed, and ready to decal. I used a slightly lightened base colour on the rear section as these pods are often using replacement parts from other pods. Also painted the Aires canopy framing ready for the kit canopy.

ud3.JPG

Aires seat with base colours and a wash. Still needs decals, a matt coat and a drybrush to finish off.

ud4.JPG

BEFORE: Kit windscreen with seam down the middle.

ud5.JPG

AFTER: Sanded and polished (inside and out) windscreen glued in place. Post added for wind vane to be scratchbuilt later. Note that the faint white line up the centre of the windscreen is the light reflecting of the instrument coaming panel line underneath. Windscreen looks a little cloudy (but isn't) because I had to use a diffuser to remove some of the direct light on the windscreen.

ud6.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

Little overdue for an update. Modelling bench has been quiet for a while as we have been working through my wife's grandmother's passing. Needless to say, am a little behind schedule, but still optimistic I can finish this in time (2 weeks to go).

All prep work is now finished and painting has begun. Here are some pics I got before painting started. Ejection seat finished with Flying Leatherneck stencils. Compare to earlier pic to see what else was done.

Front.

ud7.jpg

Back.

ud8.jpg

Tire flattened and treads rescribed. L to R - mains x 2, nose, outriggers x 2. Due to the straightening of the wing kink, I had to shorten the outrigger gear by 1.2mm each. Sit of the aircraft has been tested and all 5 tires sit on the ground. Here they have been painted with two shades of black to give some depth to detail, but still need a wash and wear.

ud9.jpg

Final shot of the fuselage before paint. In this photo, you can see the added fold out steps under the cockpit, and the retractable step under the intake which extends automatically when the canopy is open. Black areas on the shoulders are where I used some paint from painting around the cockpit opening to check for any flaws in the seams. Just inboard of the outboard pylons is one of the new wing fences I added from card. The bare spot at the top of the windscreen is where I had to redo some of the canopy rivets which weren't straight. Lastly, the front of the FLIR fairing in front of the windshield has had a circle of plastic card, with a hole punched in it, glued in place to better simulate the FLIR lens aperture.

ud10.jpg

Intakes are masked and seat fitted. I have painted the cockpit surround and the upper area of the seat rails, black. Windshield, intakes and tip of refuelling probe are masked with Tamiya tape and Mr. Masking Sol.

ud11.jpg

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Paint in progress. I preshaded all panel lines, joins and recesses with thinned gloss black. I then painted the undersides in FS35237 (Gunze H337) - the correct colour, not the one Hasegawa tell you to use. When that was dry, I oversprayed a random mottle of Gunze H338 to lighten and wear it a little. The lower surface gets grimy, but does not seem to have many repairs to the paint work, so have limited different colour panels to a couple of places on the gun pods.

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The upper surface is very splotchy as can be seen on the boxtop photo at the start of this thread, so as well as preshading in black, I have also preshaded in pale grey. The tricolour rudder stripes have also been masked and painted.

paint2_2012-09-12.jpg

JDAM and Paveway painted and ready for decals. Once I have them printed won't take long to finish up. These have had varying shades of grey sprayed vertically to "band" the paintwork as seen in pics after storage exposed to the elements. They will get further grime once decalled.

paint3.jpg

Edited by CraigSargent
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Some interesting experimentation last night with paints.

Decided I would try the new Italeri acrylic Gunship Grey as, out of the bottle, it is a spot on match to the FS595 fan deck colour chip. The Gunze Gunship is a little on the browny pink side of the colour.

I tried mixing it with Italeri's own thinner which strangely seems thicker than the paint (wonder if I got a bad batch). After spattering all over my test piece, I cleaned out the airbrush and decided to try good old water and got the same result (actually worse, as I had to strip the airbrush as it completely clogged up). Universal thinner #4 had a similar result.

Turns out iso-propyl alcohol produces a near perfect finish when paint is thinned 50/50, and yet every report I read on the net says that alcohol causes the paint to congeal and clog. Go figure. Anyway, this stuff is very nice and they do a range of FS colours no one else does (same formula as Vallejo, so if you have used those then you know how they perform), so think I will be using more of these in the future. Now to start the weathering process and then I can think about decalling...

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Decided I wanted the boarding steps open on this one as well, so I carefully chain drilled and cut out the steps, thinned the fuselage behind the steps, and then backed with some 5 thou card. Cockpit base colours had already been painted before the Harrier was put away in the box all those years ago.

6_2012-07-18.jpg

7_2012-07-18.jpg

Great job Craig! I have a project in which I need to drill out holes like you did for steps. Can you show me what type of tool is that? Thanks

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Paint progress. Have painted the base colours and now I'm in the process of weatheriing and fading. Interestingly, I was able to successfully mix Gunze and Italeri/Vallejo acrylics. I used a mix of the Italeri Gunship Grey lightened with some Gunze lighter grey to start the fading and it shot beautifully. Will hit it with one more lighter grey to add some further fading, and tehn some salt weathering before doing alittle blending of all the techniques.

Upper with paint on. Tanks are base coated Gunze to give the Italeri something to bite into/onto.

paint4.jpg

Lower areas masked with blu-tack and Tamiya tape for "sharp softedge".

paint5.jpg

For drilling out the steps I use drill bit in a pin vise and then clean up the openings with an Xacto knife/#11 blade

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