Best Putty/Filler ...

[lgl007]

Hi guys,

So what is the best putty/filler out there that will allow me to scribe through it without it crumbling on me? I currently use the Tamiya putty and I have to say that it's definitely not made for scribing through... I have some large seams around the wheel well doors that I need to fill (doors in closed position of my Mirage and I need to fill the large uneven seems in, then recribe the panel lines of the doors... recommendations?

Thanks.

-Greg

[Hawkeye's Hobbies]

My preference of putty is 3M Acryl Blue.

Maybe your technique and tools are your main issue not the putty. Every try using a micro razor saw to do your etching? Dragging a scribe point or tool that trenches the surface will cause the material (if brittle) to shatter as it passes through the material. A tool that cuts versus plowing will serve you better.

I used the pieces from a broken micro saw blade to make my own scribing tools. It works slick.

[volzj]

CA, without question.

It's the only thing I've found where I can get consistent results rescribing; everything else chips and shatters.

[J.C. Bahr]

I've had pretty good results with 3M Acryl Blue myself... but agree with Joe, you can't get any better than CA.

[JasonB]

Hi guys,

So what is the best putty/filler out there that will allow me to scribe through it without it crumbling on me? I currently use the Tamiya putty and I have to say that it's definitely not made for scribing through... I have some large seams around the wheel well doors that I need to fill (doors in closed position of my Mirage and I need to fill the large uneven seems in, then recribe the panel lines of the doors... recommendations?

Thanks.

-Greg

Magic Sculp, period

MS is a two part epoxy that mixes one-one. When freshly mixed, it has a very soft ,sticky consistency. It starts to firm up in about 20 minutes, but depending on the age of the container, remains workable for about an hour, sometimes more. Freshly mixed MS is easily worked into any sized gap.

MS smooths with water. You don't rescribe panel lines, you add them while the putty is still soft but firmed up a bit. It does not shrink. With a little practice, you can smooth out gaps that you have filled to the point where you won't need to sand. I closed the gear doors on a Trump 1/32 Mig-17, then smashed MS into the gaps and smoothed with wet finger and q-tips. Any lines that were overly filled, I just used a shaped wooden skewer (with the tip sanded to shape) to resculpt the lines. I have an array of these skewers that I have sanded to various shapes to use for figure sculpting. The only time I use any other filler is when its a small indention or hole that needs filled quickly. MS does take a while to harden, but this allows you to work it and smooth it without being in a rush. I would never use any other filler, especially anything that requires large amounts of sanding or rescribing.I wouldn't use CA for any gaps unless there was need for extra reinforcement. Give MS a try, you will like it.

HTH

Jason

Edited December 28, 2007 by jburch

[smithery]

For the big ole nasty caverns of gaps, I use Tamiya Epoxy Putty. It sands very nicely, and can easily be scribed through once it's fully cured.

[Gervais8]

Magic Sculp? Available in the US?

[trojansamurai]

I second MagicSculp. I've been able to buy it at what few LHS's exist in my area (Los Angeles), but I'm not sure about how widespread its distribution is.

But it's really more for filling large areas and building up contours. If you're looking to just fill small areas, CA is more convenient.

Another trick is to glaze regular putty (Tamiya, 3M Acryl, etc.) with a thin coat of CA. This will plug up the pores and help the putty from chipping.

[My_name_1s_MUD]

Magic Sculp flakes too much. I would use Aves Apoxy Sculpt any day of the week over Magic Sculp. It's also easier to use than Magic Sculp.

[kenlilly106]

I use scribing saws when I have to scribe over putty, far easier and you get a more consistent line with less chance of tearout. Plus I find that a saw gives a better result when scribing a line that runs through putty and styrene or resin.

Ken

[Isaac]

Full proof for me is CA. Second is mr dissolved putty. Stuff drys very hard. Mr surfacer doesn't work well and will crumble.