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Hey there!

Recently i bought revell's F-14D Tomcat in 1/48th scale, o.k kit at affordable prize and some mistakes..

Anyway, as you know this kit has raised panel lines, and i decided to rescribe them (first timer) everything is going well..considering i'm only using my pulse, but i have some questions, feel free to answer. ;)

-How deep should my rescribed panel lines be?

-I'm only using a generic X-acto blade and several sewing needles, will this affect the overall appearence of the panel lines?

-When i'm done rescribing what gritt of sandpaper (s) should i use to flatten the little bumps blades create?

Any other tip is welcomed!

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As far as I'm concerned, it's one of those "It depends" answers. Panels (normally) fit pretty close, while removable hatches, etc., obviously don't (always,) so I tend to scribe them a little deeper. Then I scribe hinged, or moving, items, like flaps, ailerons, etc., even deeper. The depth of the scribing also depends on your painting method; brush-applied paint is thicker than that from an airbrush, so tends to fill thinly-scribed lines. I use the last four grades of Micromesh for the final smoothing.

Edgar

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I am doing the same thing on a couple RM Tomcats.

I am using a pin vise with several sewing needles and dymo tape(used for plastic labels). Dymo tape is awesome and can be found at any office supply store. It makes an excellent guide for your line.

Once complete, go over the surface with 400 and then 600 grit paper

Edited by paul.nortness
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I am doing the same thing on a couple RM Tomcats.

I am using a pin vise with several sewing needles and dymo tape(used for plastic labels). Dymo tape is awesome and can be found at any office supply store. It makes an excellent guide for your line.

Once complete, go over the surface with 400 and then 600 grit paper

i use exactly what paul uses. Dymo tape is the key for me and a sharp tipped pin. start light then increase pressure as you go until you reach desired depth. as edgar has stated, i also believe each area gets it's own depth. but this also depends on you. how much work are you going to put in and how detailed do you want to get. nobody can tell you that. hope this helps

Semper Fi

Dan

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Oh....one last step I forgot....

after I sand it and smooth it out, I clean the part with cold water then lightly drag your pin back through the new groove...emphasis on lightly! This helps knock out any excess material that may have been pushed down into the groove during sanding

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Oh....one last step I forgot....

after I sand it and smooth it out, I clean the part with cold water then lightly drag your pin back through the new groove...emphasis on lightly! This helps knock out any excess material that may have been pushed down into the groove during sanding

good call paul!

semper fi

Dan

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Thank you people! very usefull tips!

However since i couldn't find Dymo tape, i adventured myself into the world of pulse.. scribing freehanded is very tricky :banana: I must be honest, the rescribing is going O.K. nothing like Cyrus Tan's work,but it isn't disgusting; i will fill some ''mistakes'' here and there with CA glue and restart.

OH another question!

I'm punching a needle to simulate rivets, is this a recommended technique?

Thanks for your time.

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Thank you people! very usefull tips!

However since i couldn't find Dymo tape, i adventured myself into the world of pulse.. scribing freehanded is very tricky :cheers: I must be honest, the rescribing is going O.K. nothing like Cyrus Tan's work,but it isn't disgusting; i will fill some ''mistakes'' here and there with CA glue and restart.

OH another question!

I'm punching a needle to simulate rivets, is this a recommended technique?

Thanks for your time.

I use to do that, but they have a tool called a rivetter, it's a small wheel attached to a handle and you roll it along the area you want rivets....very simple to use

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Couple things I do not mentioned (both are not original ideas). I'll load up the airbrush with water, crank it up to 40-50 PSI and blow out the panel lines. I also run laquer thinner down the lines to clean them up some.

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I use a scribing template rather than Dymo tape. It's a little more pricey, but I've found I get better results. The tips for clearing the gunk out of the newly scribed lines will be helpful - I'll try it on the wings of my Harrier.

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I use to do that, but they have a tool called a rivetter, it's a small wheel attached to a handle and you roll it along the area you want rivets....very simple to use

it's also called a punce wheel. micro mark has a set of three you can get. i find them invaluable when i'm detailing!

Semper Fi

Dan

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Check out my YF-23 build for more pics: >>>Here<<<

Scribe6.jpg

(Text copy pasted from pages 8&9 of the build)

The resin I've cast this part in does scribe very similarly to plastic, so the technique is similar.

I tend to scribe with the tool tipped back at about a 30 degree angle.

I make each pass with light enough pressure that if I slip off the line I'm babely scratching the surface. This is a comfortable pressure for me to create the scribe lines, but also makes fixing mistakes much easier.

When possible I try making passes from each end of the line. This helps me to control the depth near the end points of the line and also helps minimize depth inconsistencies that result from unequal pressure and chattering.

I make several passes with each sized point, beginning with a sharp compass point.

I increase the depth with each larger diameter but tend to finish slightly shallower than my end goal.

Once I've reached the final width and approximate depth I smear the black (Stabilo 'All') pencil into the line. This helps me to better see the width of the line and also seems to act line a 'release agent' for the next step, the sanding.

Next is the wet sanding with 1200 and sometimes 2000.

Some debris ends up folding back into the line and can be removed with a tooth brush, or I'll often make a few more passes with the final diameter scribe tool, just applying enough pressure to remove the pencil and debris. At this point I also check for consistant depth and if need be scribe it slightly deeper.

The final few passes I use minimal pressure, but enough to burnish and smooth the inner surface of the line...

More pencil and it's done.

Sounds like a lot more work than it is.

Once I'm finished with the scribing and ready to mold or paint the part I take a wet tooth brush to the model and remove all the pencil.

I start each line or rivet with the sharpest and move up in diameter until the width is what I want.

I use either a ruler, plastic sheet, dymo tape, vinyl tape or aluminum tape for the panel lines depending upon which meets my needs for that line.

I use the same points/pins for rivets. I made and printed a series of dots (periods) on the computer and resized them to different spacings. I lay this on the model and poke each with the sharpest compass point. Remove the paper and smear black 'grease pencil' (Stabillo 'all' works well as it cleans off with water when I'm done) to better see the layout. Next comes a larged diameter point and adjustments if the first set look off. I keep enlarging and poking them with bigger diameter pins until I reach the diameter I'm happy with, smearing the black pencil after each pass.

Next I wet-sand with 1200, then 2000 and it's done...

Sometimes I use a homemade rosie the riveter, but just lightly mark the plastic then use the pin method to actually do the engraving.

And the riveting article I submitted to ARC: >>>Here<<<

The Dymo tape works awesome for straight lines....how does one scribe a curved line, or circle?
I use thick aluminum tape cut into thin strips. Sometimes I'll just use vinyl pinstriping tape and extreme care when doing complex curves. In some cases I begin the scribe with a curved zacto blade for the first few passes rather than using a compass point.

For circles I use scribe tempates.

HTH!

Chris

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Hopefully some useful scribing tips from yours truly.

I also use adhesive Aluminium tape (3M kind over here). It works really :) for me.

Try this also, especially for panels on a rounded surface (fuselage).

1. Cut a piece of alu-tape and stick it to a flat surface (piece of glass)

2. Now take your pane template tool and stick it on top of the alu-tape with some cello-tape.

3. Take your usual needle in a vice and lightly scour your required pattern (panel) into the alu-tape until you have cut all the way through.

4. Now you have made yourself a template that you just stick on to the required area and you can scribe away without it moving around.

5. Remember also that u can make a different shape panel by laying one template on top of another in a certain way.

Maybe a bit time consuming but it works .

Regards

Pierre

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I haven't had a problem with it.

I have heard of people first putting down a layer of Tamiya tape and then the Dymo over it just to be on the safe side....

Heck, I've had more tape residue left behind from tamiya tape then with any other brand....even straight up blue painters tape

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I haven't had a problem with it.

I have heard of people first putting down a layer of Tamiya tape and then the Dymo over it just to be on the safe side....

Heck, I've had more tape residue left behind from tamiya tape then with any other brand....even straight up blue painters tape

The reason for applying it to Tamiya tape first is not to diminish residue from the Dymo tape. In fact, the Dymo adhesive loses traction very quickly, and will only lay down effectively maybe twice before you have to reach for another piece. The Tamiya tape's adhesive will last much longer. Applying the Dymo tape to Tamiya tape means you can lift and reuse sections many more times than if you applied the Dymo tape directly to the model.

Tony Bell uses this method (IIRC), and he's one of the most accomplished rescribers I've come across.

Kev

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