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Your scratch building work is simply amazing.

One thing I would have commented on earlier, if I'd seen it:

The rear fuselage had a seam at the top. That's normal. However it didn't have any underneath.

The fuselage on 109s was made by connecting concentric rings. Each ring was a loop of aluminum with the seam joined at the top.

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Thanks all.

The rear fuselage had a seam at the top. That's normal. However it didn't have any underneath.

The fuselage on 109s was made by connecting concentric rings. Each ring was a loop of aluminum with the seam joined at the top.

After a long search, I could find 2/3 pics with a part of the belly visible :always a bottom seam, barely visible ok, but there... + an old picture in a Japanese "***** Mechanic" where you can see rear "half fuselage skins" prior to completion.

Are you sure this "no under seam" info is reliable for the series production aircraft, as this is the first time I hear of that. :blink:

Really don't want to touch that up and soon after, have confirmation it was just good as it is now ....... :banana:

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Pretty sure... Let me check what resources I've got...

Can't find the specific photo I was thinking of. I've seen a pic of the individual rings being assembled. I guess I just didn't bother saving it at the time. A few google searchs didn't yield it either.

Edited by Mark M.
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all,

Impossible for me to register after the forum changes..... :nanner:

Hopefully, there is the login recovery ....

So, back on tracks.

I finally changed my mind about the little bump on the side cowl bulge ( the fact all the panelling around guns "cut-out" yould need to be filled and re-engraved to be accurate, helped to make that lazy choice ;) )

P2211069.jpg

Now the wing radiators: Hagegawa did follow the "cheap" route, just nothing is included for the rear side, if you want to let the flaps half opened...so here's my cheap answer :worship:

You need modeling clay, talcum powder, cyano glue and voilà:

P2211063.jpg

Not so "sexy" at this stage...

P2211066a.jpg

...but after clean-up, it should do the job

P2211067.jpg

P2211065.jpg

A little more detailling in whell wells, again very crude on the model...

P2211067a.jpg

When I see what can be done with those wonderfull "Radub" super sets, for 1/32nd scale..... :wub:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Griffin,

Your latest work on the flaps is just as impressive as the rest of this build has been....truly stunning and quite helpful to share these tips.

Sincerely,

Greg

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  • 2 months later...

Hy Griffin!!!

let me first say that your work is amazng and dunno why it seems you have abanoned it :thumbsup: !

anyway if you ever gonna see my reply I wanted to ask you a pretty simple question!How do you make those "handlevers" like the one on your image on the oxigen system?!?the white one..it seems octagonal but even if my sight is good I cannot do with such precision a work like that!are they rods already made or not?if yes where can i buy them?

thanks in advance and hope to receive a response...

Cheers

:cheers:

CopiedeP1221032.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
Hy Griffin!!!

let me first say that your work is amazng and dunno why it seems you have abanoned it :thumbsup: !

anyway if you ever gonna see my reply I wanted to ask you a pretty simple question!How do you make those "handlevers" like the one on your image on the oxigen system?!?the white one..it seems octagonal but even if my sight is good I cannot do with such precision a work like that!are they rods already made or not?if yes where can i buy them?

thanks in advance and hope to receive a response...

Cheers

:woot.gif:

CopiedeP1221032.jpg

Sorry for a this so late reponse, I was off the forum for a while....

If the question is about that "notched knob" at right of the blue oxygen thing, it's quite simple and not that hard to do:

All you need is a large diameter and round sprue runner; make large grooves all around it, in the Greek columns style ( draw lines with a pencil, at regular spacing, cut in them with an X-acto and anlarge with a file, you should have deep grooves as a result , no need to be super precise, "fairly good" will be enough here ).

As you may know, streched over a flame, a sprue keeps the original shape .....the result is a long rod of various small diameters, with nice minute notches around !

Just cut a "washer" and voilà, you can makes lots of knobs, buttons, gearing parts........and all that for not a penny!

Another exemple:

P3050004.jpg

A ( very little ) update with the belly, I should have choose the easy way:jetissonable tank rack....no need to go crazy like that

th_P6010285b.jpg

Less than a month to finish, at my best snail speed..... :D

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Thanks for the reply Griffin and very very happy to see that you dont have abandoned your project!!!

your explanation is almost clear...just a pair more questions:

once you've done the "grooves" you stretch the sprue like a normal "sprue stretchin" on the flame and just pulling???the grooves stay there?dont disappear?

and here the reaaal question....you pick a "large" round sprue and how you make such straight lines?i tried to work and make my own notch but was impossible to be regular and precise....

after you use the pencil you run a blade on it but how???how you keep that so straight?or is not necessary?

it's strange but your explanation is clear but dunno how to do it LOL LOL!!!

sorry dude and TIA

Cheers

:salute:

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