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This is an A-10 that I started last March for the ODS GB. Was able to complete 2 of the 3 kits I had wanted to build but a move and running out of time decided to shelve the A-10 until now. Now settled in, work desk and shop are ready. So with the A-10 GB now in full swing I figured what the heck let me start my new shop and complete the A-10. This is Italeri's excellent 72nd scale version of the OA-10A. Which someone has mentioned earlier can be loaded out into any particular mission. I will be using Eduard's zoom set to enhance the cockpit. Carpena Decals for 511th TFS 10th TFW bird out of King Fahd Arirport Saudi Arabia,sheet #72.70.

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The cockpit is typical Italeri, why using Eduards set will help here.

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Depending in what level of Maintenance some A-10's had been through at this time during Desert Storm, some A-10's had white or the orginal Lt Grey wheel wheels and landing gear. Since I could not find an image of this particular A-10 at this time frame. I'm assuming the Lt Grey wells, wheels and struts.

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The kit seat will also be enhanced with Eduards PE.

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Does this instrument panel need help?

a10aip.JPG

More images to follow.

Chuck

Fly Navy

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This is Italeri's excellent 72nd scale version of the OA-10A. Which someone has mentioned earlier can be loaded out into any particular mission.

correct. There is literally zero difference between an A-10A and an OA-10A.

I didn't realize the Italeri cockpit was that bad. Sheesh. :)

Jake

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Finally found some time to upload some more images. An overall image of the airframe with some seam work being done.

a10a1.JPG

What a difference the Eduard's PE set really enhance the cockpit vice the OOB one. Though I do need some minor adjustments need to be made on the instrument panel. These digital cameras don't miss any details.

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At this moment I need to complete the engine nacelles. Not bad here from the kit. Though I did not count the blades, they do look ok for this scale. (fan blades). The general shape looks good as some have stated that Italeri's A-10 is the most accurate in this scale. Frankly I don't care I'm not into that kind of accuracy, it's a fun kit to build so far. Not like building an F-14 which is labor intensive regardless who's kit it is.

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Normal seam work at the wing to fuselage mating points. Not too much around the engines. Now I am caught up.

From this point on, any updates will be new work on this build.

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It is really windy here so no painting today. More to follow.

Chuck

Fly Navy

Edited by uscusn
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correct. There is literally zero difference between an A-10A and an OA-10A.

I didn't realize the Italeri cockpit was that bad. Sheesh. :)

Jake

Your right about that Jake. I was surprised to see how generic the cockpit was on this kit. And in reality haven't really seen much written up on this particular A-10, lots of 48th stuff on Revellogram, Tamiyas and now HB's. But in this scale not so much.

Chuck

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  • 1 month later...

A little rain today but in between storms we did get a little bit of sun today as well. Feel like I'm in Texas lately, if you wait a few minutes the weather will change. Anyhow, an update with some images, at this point the tail planes have been added, along with some added details under the fuselage with adding the chaff dispensers and finally the nose cone.

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These 2 overall airframe images show the installation of the nose and inboard air deflectors as well.

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The chaff dispenser (flare?) and ventral fins are installed.

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At this moment the engine pods are being painted and assembled before installing on the lower half.

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RH side view

a10a9.JPG

Will try to get some building done. More to follow.

Chuck

Fly Navy

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  • 1 month later...

Finally able to get back into the A-10. At this point of the project, most of the detail bits have been added and installed and now ready to pre shade the airframe.

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The canopy is installed and masked. While preshading I was wondering how to mask off the intake and fan blade to prevent overspray.

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The exhaust pipes were not an issue easy does it with Tamiya Tape.

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This version will be in the Lizard Scheme of 34102 Med Green/34092 Euro 1 Green/36081 Gunship Grey

Desert Storm 1991.

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Next set of images will be when the first camo color will be airbrushed on.

Chuck

Fly Navy

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Going back to the issue in how to keep those large intakes from over spray. It's rather difficult to create a perfect circle mask though not impossible. And wallah!! (wa lah?) just tossed a couple of empty Tenax bottles. I popped the lids and the inserts were just about the right size, hmmm.

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With a little trimming I got them to fit into the intake with just pushing them in as far as they go into the intake in a snug fit.

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Normally my technique is to spray the lightest color first and progress to the next darker shade. Also starting with the bottom with the light grey or blue. But this is a wraparound scheme and the lightest color is not so light. In this case I will start with Aeromaster Medium Green Fs34102. This is also an Acrylic, so I will be expecting the typical clogging of the tip. One other tidbit is I will airbrush the area of where the Med Green will appear on the airframe. This will be a first for me instead of shooting the whole airframe and then add on top the 2nd and 3rd colors. So here we go.

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This is actually working out well so far. With Med Green 1st free handed on with a Paasche H model. I do miss the Aeromaster brand as it is really a Polly S formula.

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I may just do this technique which is not new, I have seen other builders use this before, figure I would try it. Also with the preshading, it will not cover the shading with 2nd or 3rd colors over the base coat. Which tends to happen after 3 coats of paint.

Now the 1st coat has been applied. Now for the 2nd shade, MM Acrylic, Euro 1 Green Fs34092.

More to follow

Chuck

Fly Navy

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The 2nd shade I used is MM shade Euro 1 Dk Grn. The bottle doesn't say this is Fs34092, and when you first look at the paint in the bottle it looks too light. But after a test shot, it dried much darker and looked like the right color for this scale. So here we go and time to airbrush the 2nd shade.

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As usual the MM was fussy out of the brush so it took over an hour to apply it. Must of the time unclogging the tip. I should've put some Future in the bottle as I have found it to spray much better. Oh well. The under surfaces ware again freehanded as I edged up to the lighter shade of Green. The pylons will be in Euro 1 as I've in the photos of this aircraft. They will eventually all be painted when I go back and fix any discrepancies after the Grey is painted.

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After laying the 2nd Green I'll let it sit until next weekend to apply the Gunship Grey. I can see why the tutone Grey is much easier to paint. It's hard to get in and around those engine pods.

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That was a nice painting session. It can be a fun time or frustrating time. The Gun ship Grey is Enamel which is much easier to paint but messier to clean up oh well. More to follow.

Chuck

Fly Navy

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