Any tips for Leading Edge Decals application?

[Mark M.]

Yesterday I spent some time in the spray booth with both my viper and my hornet. The viper just the undersides (I don't have the upper color yet) but the hornet I coated completely. Once dry for a bit I decide to test the waters with the LED Tiger Meet decals. I had separated the stabilizers, so I tried those first.

Well, the decals keep breaking. They crack into 2 or more pieces every time. Usually not right after hitting the water, but about 20 seconds (before they're able to slide free from the backing!).

On top of that I put micro set on the stabilizers first, and micro sol afterwards (because I didn't trim away the excess film and it stuck off the edges in places). It bubbled up in a wierd way. More wrinkles than the usual decals I've used this with. I didn't think there was anything I could do, so I left it and went to bed.

Then I did one of the sides of the drop tank pylons, and that broke into 3 pieces. Not only was the fit far from perfect for the pylon, the decal chipped around the sway braces and refused to settle down even with copious amounts of sol. I did all this last night, and this morning I checked. The stabilizers seem okay, but they're flat surfaces, and didn't need to conform to any shapes. I didn't check the drop tank, but I don't think it did so well.

Seeing that the decals will have to conform to some pretty curvy parts of the hornet, I need some tips. Also, what's a good product to get LED brand decals to conform to shapes?

[phantom]

I had this trouble with my Tiger Hornet markings, but in the end it STILL turned out VERY nice (see the TMOTA group build 1st page)

You need to pre-coat this sheet with the stuff you put on really old decals. I can't remember the name but someone will chime in.

Also you need to have the model well coated in a few sprays of future, to aid in the decals having a glossy serface to cling too.

Even with this I had several decals lift up around the edges. All I did for these is take a sharp 11 blade and scrape them back a couple mm. Then applied model master 36118 which is a perfect match for the leading edge decal right out of the bottle.

This sheet seems to be hit and miss. I have done it 2 times now, and only the last sheet had difficulties......perhaps it was just old, as the other time the decals went on with no troubles what so ever.

[Mark M.]

Hrm...

I have heard of the stuff you mention, but can't recall the name of it (the film you brush onto the top of the decals). I can pick some up, if somebody can tell me what it's called.

I will eventually use Future before doing most of the decals, but tested the stabilizers and drop-tank on un-future-coated parts just for expedition's sake.

[Barneydhc82]

It is called Microscale Liquid Decal Film...but even this does no good. I tried the 1:48 CF-18 410 Sqn 60th Anniversary decals only to have all of the same problems. Shattered pieces...curled edges...wrinkles..the whole lot.

I was told that any modeller of average experience would know that you have to spray the sheet with lacquer before applying...OK...60 years of modelling and I've never heard of that one nor have I ever had decals shatter the way these did. I was also told tat the decal sheet was too old...I've got 25 year old decals that still work perfectly...so what's the problem?

Barney

[Mark M.]

Wouldn't coating them with laquer ruin them? Also, wouldn't it make them rigid, so they don't apply properly (or crack/break) when going onto a curved surface??

So, micro set/sol doesn't work so well, what DOES work well with 'em?

I think before I go much further I should scan the decal sheet at high resolution... Then at least I can make spray masks if the decals totally disintegrate. To date I've only had a couple of decals do that on me, one from a 50-year-old Matchbox kit, and one from a 40-year-old Airfix kit. Better safe than sorry, though.

[Barneydhc82]

Mark: Lacquer spray before applying the decals is not the solution. When I was building the pre-production kit of the Pitts S2S "Promethius", the decals sent to me by the graphics company were coated with lacquer and they would not lay down...no matter what you did! The second set of prototype decals ...printed on an ALPS 5000 printer...were left uncoated and worked beautifully.

I tried Solvaset on the first set of decals without any luck at all. Take a look at Promethius on my website under AirShowModels

Barney http://www.barneysairforce.com

[Joe Hegedus]

I've only used one set of LE decals to date, on a special-scheme CF-104. I found that HOT (not warm but really HOT) water to soak will help make them pliable, and copious amounts of solvaset (I'm talking about repeatedly flooding the decal with the stuff) are required to get them to lay down-but they will lay down and conform nicely with that product (unless, of course, LE changed the materials, etc. in the printing process).

[Barneydhc82]

Joe: Been there ...Done that too...

Barney

[Mark M.]

Hrm... my water was somewhat cold... Maybe that hastened the shattering (shrinkage </Seinfeld>) -- however there's got to be something that helps them dissolve, surely? So Micro Set/Sol is almost nonfunctional, and solvaset really doesn't help. What other decal products are there that I can try instead?

[Mark M.]

Thanks! I'll try to pick up some Mr. Mark Softer. I'm guessing that's Gunze Sanyo, as they like the "Mr." title in their product line.

[Charlie Cheetah]

Yup, Warm Water and Micro Sol/Set does the trick for me. Here's a tip to keep the water warm. Go down to Micheal's and purchase one of thier candle warmers, you'll probably find it in a bin near the cash areas, if not look in the candle making aisle. Now, put an old cereal bowl filled partway with enough hot water to soak your decals onto the candle warming surface being careful not to spill any water on the warmer and turn on the switch. The warmer will keep the decal water a nice warm temperature as long as you want.

[Mark M.]

Drove all over the bloody place, went to 3 stores, finally found some Solvaset at the last one (they seemed to be out of Mr. Mark Softer -- I wanted both to be safe).

Worked like a charm!!

Aside from initially mis-placing one of the pylon decals for the drop tanks, the solvaset works wonders. These must be tough decals, though, because it's taking multiple applications. Makes it feel like Micro Sol normally does.

I'm on my way! P.S. the hot water worked like a charm -- problem is keeping it hot.

[Mark M.]

Is a "candle warmer" (designed to bring the scent out but not burn the candle) warm enough? I've seen them all over the hobby lobbies, but I'd imagine they're somewhat underpowered, if they can't melt wax.