ian lanc Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 i've always read about people using the above, well i had to get myself some to try if out and yes it does make the clear parts go very clear indeed, but if you get the part wet which has the coating on when the water dries off it leaves it WHITE, this i didn't mind as i painted a bit of future on it and it was gone, i did a wash on a model and a bit of water went inside the canopy causing it to go WHITE again, this couldn't resolve as it is inside . another thing paint does not bloody stick to it neither :D , i also used future on the wings where the roundels where to go and when i sprayed a coat of matt on the model where the future was it went all white :( , this has just about ruined a model i was making and i'll tell you lot i've poured it down the sink the coating was on for 2 days before i did any more painting, so it was thoroughly dry. yours a angry ian. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BjornB17 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 (edited) hmm i use future all the time and i've never heard of this! The only time i've ever had it go white on me is when i try to apply decal setting solution on the future before it's completely dry (i.e. within a couple hours). Edited January 30, 2008 by BjornB17 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Heff3 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 I've had the odd little white patch where I had a lot of water still on the decal when I applied it. The white patch would appear where the water pooled. I thought it may be glue from the decal. Pretty sure it clears up once the water dries off completely. The final matt coat tends to make any residual white spots disappear anyway. I have also found that paint doesn't stick as well on future. I only notice it on canopys when I remove the mask. So now I don't bother with the future before painting. To get the crystal canopy look, I stand the model on its tail, put tissue in the cockpit and brush the future on really thickly. But you must ensure that you have plenty of tissue so the runs don't run on to the model. The frames are now a bit glossy compared to the model but its very hard to notice. Hope this helps. Heff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawkeye's Hobbies Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 i'll tell you lot i've poured it down the sink yours a angry ian. Let's hope you didn't just create yet another nightmare for yourself...a clogged drain from the build up of the Klear. A white spot as you suggested could have been a reaction from chlorine in your tap water. The spot could have been touched up with a polishing stick and a light reapplication of Klear. As with anything new...a little experimentation and practice on a test subject is prudent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StevenJ Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 I only airbrush Future onto my models unless I'm dipping clear parts but that is the only exception. I have only had the white areas appear only a couple times and only when applying a lot of SolvaSet. And it's easily remedied with another light spray of Future. I have never had any problems with paint sticking to Future. I'm not sure why your bad luck unless you put the stuff on too thick and/or it really didn't cure fully in those two-days. Maybe I just have better luck with the stuff curing because it doesn't really get all that damp and cold out here in southern California. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Green-Meanie Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Can't say I've had any problem with paint not sticking Klear coated canopies. I use Tamiya acrylics mostly, I wonder if the type/brand of paint could be the issue? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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