Jump to content

F-22 Raptor FS colors

Recommended Posts

I have searched the forums, and there are many posts asking for the colors of the F-22 Raptor. But, many replys point to dead links to the old ARC forums. Can someone post the FS numbers for the 2 & 3 tone color scheme of the F-22 Raptor ??



Link to post
Share on other sites

I corresponded back and forth with Mark and came up with the following procedure for how he did his Raptors. I haven't actually gotten up the courage to try this yet (MAYBE in the next week or two!), but this should get you started. There is no easy way to do this, unfortunately and from talking with the paint experts (I'm not one--I detest painting), it seems unlikely there never will be because of the nature of the coating.

Matching Raptor Colors

If you’ve been interested in building a model of the F-22 Raptor (despite the shortcomings of the available models), but haven’t been able to figure out how to duplicate the metallic sheen of its camouflage coating (if calling it paint is even appropriate), here is a possible solution.

Mark Bilas, the owner of an engineering firm with experience in automotive paint, posted photos of his F-22 on ARC recently. Based on his experience, he believes that the formulation of Model Master enamels provides the best match of the darkening/lightening effect of the darker silver color in the F-22 scheme. This gets into the optical physics of the paint that, if you were exposed to it, you’d probably want to kill yourself (it is better to eat sausage in ignorance than watch it being prepared)! Anyway, after a bit of back and forth, here is Mark’s process and a few photos of the finished product.

1) Paint the leading edges of the flaps, ailerons, rudders, canopy frame, radome, and other hard-edged gray patches FSN 36375 light ghost gray (Testors 1728). [Other guesses for this color include FSN 36440 light gull gray or FSN 36251 Navy Aggressor gray—take your pick.] After allowing them to dry thoroughly, mask over prior to applying the “metallic” camouflage.

2) If desired, pre-shade selected areas dark gray.

3) Lighter “gray” is mix of Testors Model Master automotive enamels, using 80% Aluminum (1781) and 20% Graphite Metallic (2712). Since these are NOT Metalizer paints, using any sort of adhesive masking on them will be a recipe for disaster.

4) Before the lighter color dries completely, apply the darker “gray” using a somewhat thinned mix of 25% Silver and 75% Graphite Metallic, shaken frequently and not sprayed to complete density of the color. Keep shaking the jar to keep the colors mixed. Two coats of normally thinned paint will give a rich color. Immediately after the second coat is dry to the touch start spraying the dark silver. This paint should be thinned more than the light silver. Apply as a thin coat that is translucent. You do not want to cover over the light silver entirely. Take you time. Rotate and tilt the model to see the change in intensity of the color. Remember you can add but not take away! Keep shaking the jar. As you spray the thinner in the dark silver re-melts the light silver coat and causes the two to blend better. Once you are satisfied set the model away to dry thoroughly for a few days.

5) The overcoat switches to acrylic, using Testors Clear Gloss Acrylic (4638) tinted with either 35237 Medium Gray (4746) or F-15 Dark Gray 36176 (4754). Acrylic is used to ensure the color is soluble in the clear. Starting with a whole ½ oz. bottle of clear, start with 5 drops of gray, increasing to maybe ten, if required. Thin as you would normally and apply several light coats.

6) Apply decals after the overcoat has dried thoroughly. Another (un-tinted) clear overcoat here is optional to hide decal film.

7) A final flat finish, such as Testors Dullcote (1160X), should be applied to even out the finish. Mark assures me that the metallic sheen will remain, even after applying the Dullcote and the pictures seem to bear this out.

8) Uncover the parts that were masked at the beginning.

F/A-22A Colors

I looked at the color charts on the Durant web site and as far as memory and a picture I have serves, I think you would want to look at these colors for your jet;

*Gloss White for the weapons' bay, wheel wells and any other open bays you may model. Also, about half (the back half) of the canopy hinge deck is white as well. The actual hinges and the decking under the canopy actuator are flat interior aircraft black as is the rest of the cockpit and inside of the canopy frame.

*FS 36231 is a bit too gray but would be almost spot-on for the exhaust nozzle exteriors.

*FS 35630 for the overall--that is just the basic gray, bear in mind the "prismatic" qualities of the actual paint.

*FS 35237 is pretty close for the TPS patches

*Some kind of off-white for the exhaust nozzle leaf interior as well as for the nozzle sidewalls.

*Typical exhaust-type colors for the interiors of the engines.

*Most of the wire harnesses should be a green something like O.D.

*The heavier ductwork will mostly be a semi-gloss black

*The tubing is bare-metal

*Any vents (On top of both inlets as well as toward the back in the middle, between the tails) will be about the same as the exhaust nozzles.

*The canopy has a goldish tint to it.

Anyway, as for the other color for around the inlet and a few other places--I think FS 36495 is pretty close.

Edited by mrvark
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...