Dale Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 I don't know what happened, but I just sprayed Tamiya color spray paint on my Monogram PM F-15E to check on the puttied seams and this is what happened: Can anyone tell me how to fix this? I tried sanding and it looks like I have to go all the way down to the plastic (through like 3 or 4 airbrushed coats below this primer). Does anyone know what might have caused this? I haven't painted the model in nearly a week so the prior paint should have been thoroughly cured by now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dragonfly Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 Hope you don't mind me asking, but why did you spray primer over something that already has 4 coats on it? Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dale Posted February 8, 2008 Author Share Posted February 8, 2008 Hope you don't mind me asking, but why did you spray primer over something that already has 4 coats on it?Jerry Well it wasn't really 'primer' but Tamiya color aircraft grey spray paint. I was painting it to check the seams after I puttied to see if they were good enough or if I need to work on them more. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlackLion213 Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 I had to stop work on my F-111I for the same reason, i sprayed acrylic over enammel and got that so i got to sand it off and tyr again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dale Posted February 8, 2008 Author Share Posted February 8, 2008 I had to stop work on my F-111I for the same reason, i sprayed acrylic over enamel and got that so i got to sand it off and tyr again Is that the deal? The other paint was enamel, but I thought it would be fully cured since it has been over a week since I've done any spraying on it. Looks like I can get to most of it, but going to be spending a lot of time trying to re-etch detail back in. Some of it I'm not sure how I'm going to get to sand down. This is very upsetting, I've been working on this for over 3 months already. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 It must be a reaction to the old paint. If you look clsely, you will see the puttied area's are not affected. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PNW_Modeler Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 I had the same thing happen with Tamiya spray over Model Master.....it doesn't like it. The only way I could fix it was a dip into the ole Castrol Superclean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dale Posted February 8, 2008 Author Share Posted February 8, 2008 (edited) I had the same thing happen with Tamiya spray over Model Master.....it doesn't like it.The only way I could fix it was a dip into the ole Castrol Superclean That is exactly what I did: Tamiya spray over Model Master. What is Castrol Superclean? Now what happens when I try to go back over it and paint the model master back on? Edited February 8, 2008 by Dale Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Julien (UK) Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 I had the same problem when I used Tamyia Spray cans. Now if the same cans as I used then they were laquer based and it had reacted with the humbrol paint I used. This was strange to me as I had used cans on a previous model with no problems. Julien Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PNW_Modeler Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 That is exactly what I did: Tamiya spray over Model Master. What is Castrol Superclean?Now what happens when I try to go back over it and paint the model master back on? Castrol Superclean is a degreaser you can find at auto stores.... submerge the model in Superclean for 24 hours, no more paint Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Incaroad Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 You can spray Enamal over Lacquer but not Lacquer over Enamal unless you use a barrier of some kind. Or, you mist it on really lightly. I've used Floquil Crystal Clear (very harsh on enamal) over Model Master many times though. That is a classic example of Lacquer over enamal! Which is what you said you did, Tamiya Spray can Lacquer over Model Master Enamal! Hope that helps Cheers Larry McCarley 21045 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dale Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 You can spray Enamal over Lacquer but not Lacquer over Enamal unless you use a barrier of some kind. Or, you mist it on really lightly. I've used Floquil Crystal Clear (very harsh on enamal) over Model Master many times though. That is a classic example of Lacquer over enamal! Which is what you said you did, Tamiya Spray can Lacquer over Model Master Enamal! Hope that helps Cheers Larry McCarley 21045 What about clear coat? Does that mean I can't use an acryl based wash for my panel lines after I put on enamel clear coat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kenlilly106 Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 (edited) That is exactly what I did: Tamiya spray over Model Master. That's what caused it, Tamiya sprays are lacquer based and should only be applied over bare plastic or other lacquers. What is Castrol Superclean? A very strong cleaner that removes paint, available at auto parts stores and some big-box retailers Now what happens when I try to go back over it and paint the model master back on? The MM paints shouldn't react to the Tamiya spray, but I would advise removing the paints you already have on the model, mainly to prevent any future problems and to remove the areas where the paint reacted and wrinkled. If you don't want to strip the whole kit, I'd wet sand down the wrinkled areas until they're smooth. Edit: Yes, you can use an acrylic wash over enamels, just not the other way around. The application rule is LEA: lacquer then enamel then acrylic, always go in this order and not the other way. Ken Edited February 9, 2008 by kenlilly106 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dale Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 The MM paints shouldn't react to the Tamiya spray, but I would advise removing the paints you already have on the model, mainly to prevent any future problems and to remove the areas where the paint reacted and wrinkled. If you don't want to strip the whole kit, I'd wet sand down the wrinkled areas until they're smooth.Ken thanks Ken, that's what I'm doing now, sanding down to the plastic in all the areas that wrinkled Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Irving Babbitt Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 I recently read a post on Automotive Forums by a fella that tried to expedite his paint stripping by giving his chassis an overnight dip in automotive paint striper. Next morning, the paint was gone…..and so was his chassis. I had often toyed with this idea (not an extended dip, mind you) and I’m glad I refrained. Anyway, thought I’d pass this information along since we’re on the subject of stripping paint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mkimages Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 Sorry about your F-15 & I hope you can salvage it, but in a case of "one man's trash is another's treasure", I think i've figured out how to make a dry lakebed base for my X-1. Thanks! :lol: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dale Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 After nearly 4 hours of panicked water sanding, here's where I've gotten it. Going to try and re-airbrush the model master paint Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Incaroad Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 What about clear coat? Does that mean I can't use an acryl based wash for my panel lines after I put on enamel clear coat? You can use all the acrylic you want it won't hurt the enamal one bit, although I'd rather use artist oils for a wash. Most use Future before they attempt the wash though. After nearly 4 hours of panicked water sanding, here's where I've gotten it. Going to try and re-airbrush the model master paint Looks like you've done a very nice job of sanding and it's ready for more Model Master to check seems, right, or is this the top coat? Whichever you've made the right choice to stick with your original brand...much safer that way. Cheers, Larry McCarley 21045 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dale Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 hopefully with the extra sanding I did the seams will be good to go, so probably just a couple more coats of MM on it (to make sure paint is even) then go with the gloss coat for washing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Incaroad Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 hopefully with the extra sanding I did the seams will be good to go, so probably just a couple more coats of MM on it (to make sure paint is even) then go with the gloss coat for washing Sounds good Dale. Can't wait to see that when you're done. Cheers, Larry McCarley 21045 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PNW_Modeler Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 (edited) I recently read a post on Automotive Forums by a fella that tried to expedite his paint stripping by giving his chassis an overnight dip in automotive paint striper. Next morning, the paint was gone…..and so was his chassis. I had often toyed with this idea (not an extended dip, mind you) and I’m glad I refrained. Anyway, thought I’d pass this information along since we’re on the subject of stripping paint. Superclean is not a paint stripper. It is a degreaser. I just used it on the body of a F1 car I am working on that had the exact same interaction issues with Tamiya spray....I got a bottle of Superclean, dumped it into a decent size tuperware container, dropped in the body, put the lid on and walked away. Came back 24 hours later and boom! No more paint....body is great....no damage at all Edited February 9, 2008 by paul.nortness Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MHaz Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 I, too have used the Castol Super Clean degreaser to strip with, and it's great! One thing: it's now just called "Super Clean Degreaser;" Castrol isn't distributing it any more. Great thing about this stuff is, the paint literally just slides off the model when you pull it out. I've left parts in for weeks at a time (oops) and had no problems with the plastic being damaged, even clear canopies. You can get a gallon jug at your local Wal-Mart for something like $5, and the appropriately sized tub for $5, too. Best part is, if you put the cover on the tub, the stuff keeps forever, and you can use it over and over again. I started using it in June of '05, and the only reason I dumped my tub of it out was we moved this past summer... I probably stripped 7-8 kits with it (old brushed paint jobs that never got decalled...) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clumber Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 It's kinda' like the rhyme i learned in college (a couple decades ago now), "Beer liquor never sicker, liquor beer never fear!" Anyone up for making an acrylic/enamel rhyme? :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlackLion213 Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 so if i get the drgreser stuff, fill up a tub to cover the bottom of th -111 ( the top is perfect, and i want it to stay the way lol) it should be good to go the right good work sanding, i cant do that to mine becuse of the area the messed up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dale Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 Just picked up a bottle of super clean from Wal-mart and a big tupperware bin. Will be good to have on hand in case another emergency. You think this is a good way to pre-clean models before working on them? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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