High Gloss Finish

[dews]

Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone knows how to get a really high gloss finish for a car model. I use future and all those clear coats but I want a show room type of gloss. I watched a video on Youtube one time and it was in Japanese but the gentlemen in the video used Tamiya polishing compound to make a really high gloss finish, I was wondering if anyone has used it before or has other tips for a great high gloss finish. ANy help is greatly appreciated.

[woodbeck3]

Hi Dewes. Will you be airbrushing the model first?

[Charlie Cheetah]

Yes, Tamiya Rubbing Compound is nice, easy to use, almost like Turtle Wax. Another good product is Novus Polishing System.

[jenshb]

A good gloss takes a little skill, but also time. Make sure you have a smooth primer coat - not glossy, just smooth. To do this you can use a polishing system called Micromesh. This comprises several abrasive cloths starting at about 1800 grit and ends at 12000 grit. I paid about $20 for mine, but the cloths are washable and will last a good while. Go over your primer coat with the 3600 grit to make sure it's smooth - you will still see some very fine scratches on the surface, but the top coat will take care of that. The point of this is to even out the peaks and troughs of even satin paint. As for paints, I've had most luck using Tamiya spraycans - TS range. I have no experience with Testors as they're not available here in the UK. Warm the can in warm water (you should be able to hold your hand in the water though) and make sure the paint is warm. For better effect, you can warm the object you will be painting, but do not use the oven. Yes, I'm speaking from experience here... A hairdryer will do a good job, but make sure it doesn't overheat or you may release stresses in the plastic and the body may warp. The point of this is to make the paint flow better once it's on the model. Imagine putting a knob of butter in a hot frying pan - it evens out. Mist some paint on to cover details and corners, and wait about 5 minutes. Then go over the model with proper coats five to ten minutes apart. I hold the model no more than 20 cms away to avoid the paint drying too much on the way to the model. Once you're happy with the coverage, leave the paint to cure - a week should be sufficient, but I know people who wait for no less than two weeks. Once the paint is cured, you will hopefully be happy with your paintjob. If not, do not despair. now you can bring out the finer grades of Micromesh. One problem you may expect is orange peel. In order to get rid of this, you need to start with 3200 or 3600 grit micromesh to level the paint, and then you can start enhancing the gloss by rubbing with finer grades of micromesh up to and including 12000. You can then use a product called The Final Detail which is a carnauba wax used by car modellers. Another alternative is to use a good quality car polish. Do not overcoat the model after you have waxed it as the was may cause the Future to pool.

Jens

[Julien (UK)]

If you get the novus system then they have a full colour guide about how to get a high glos shine and it really works.

I use part of this system for aircraft models and it has improved the appearance 100%

Julien

[Vinny]

Hi Dews,

I found an article somewhere on these forums a few months ago and bookmarked it. It should give you all the information and techniques that you need. The results are awesome.

Here's the link...

http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/t...2&CurPage=1

Hope this helps.

Vinny

[9thstormo]

Hello,

Now, this is something i understand as cars are my 'regular' builds while I am new to aircraft. First off, use a proper clear coat. GSI Creos' 'Mr Top Coat' is very high quality stuff if you prefer aerosol. in fact, It's almost as good as this excellent product:

http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_inf...products_id=797

Truly excellent stuff!! The only caution is, if you use 'Zero Paints' WEAR A PROPER RESIRATOR as they contain isocyanates. Very nasty stuff if you do not use a mask. And, BTW, the proper 'NIOSH 95' respirators are readily available at auto paint supply retailers, art supply shops, maybe your local hobby shop, or almost definately from home renovation outlets (Home Depot, Rona, Lowes or Canadian Tire in the USA and Canada)-so no excuses. Take a moment to read the instructions in the link. The stuff is really idiot proof to use and its own, you will be able to achieve about 90% of a beautifully polished finish. If you want to go for the extra 10% get yourself a polishing kit. Learn to use it properly (rule 1: don't apply too much pressure!), then use rubbing compounds afterwards, followed by a wax such as Tamiya's or Novus. Tamiya compounds are good and comes in three grits. Again, even better stuff apparently is made by GSI and is also offered by 'Hiroboy'. I haven't used it but I intend to get it next time I place an order.

BTW, take a look at their impressive range of paints. "Zero Paints" is a flat base coat paint (over which the gloss is applied) that are perfectly matched to many OEM paint codes, and even more importantly for me that builds race cars and bikes, matched to team paints! It goes on super smooth, already thinned, dries incredibly quickly, and is relatively inexpensive. honestly, car/bike modellers are absolutely ecstatic with this stuff. And, there are some 'generic' shades (primer-very, very nice-, black, white, etc) that have an application on just about any model.

Again though: protect your lungs and your health: use only with a proper respirator! No paint finish is worth serious health complications down the road!

What are you building, BTW?

I have, on the go: a 1/20 Ferrari F186 F1 car (80% finished)-Studio 27 resin kit, a 1/24 #007 Aston-Martin DBR9 (20%) from 2006 Le Mans 24 Hours race, and I just started a Tamiya 'Repsol' sponsored MotoGp Honda RC211V as ridden by Valentino Rossi @ Valencia 2003 (with really cool 'Austin Powers' graphics). All will or have been painted using Zero Paints.

Oh, and I have a 1/48 HAS F-104 NMF and just started a 1/48 CF-18 (w/ Leading Edge "Balkan Rats"). i forgot, this is an aircraft modelling forum. But, we're all friends here, right?

Sorry for the long post.

HTH,

Michael

[dews]

Thanks for all the help gents.

The project that I am going to be working on is converting a Revell 1/25 2006 Mustang GT into a Saleen S281 and then further turning the saleen S281 into "Barricade" from the transformers movie.

Lots of scratch building and some special decals needed but it will be pretty sweet when its done.

[Old Blind Dog]

Micromesh (wet sanded) is an absolute must for a good glossy finish with some real depth to it.

I've successfully painted dozens and dozens of car models using both acylics and the Tamiya TS synthetic lacquers.

What I do:

For airbrushed acrylics:

1. Apply main color; at least four thin coats, over primer if desired.

2. Apply two to four light coats of clear gloss finish (NOT Future at this point)

3. When paint and gloss is thoroughly cured, wet sand Micromesh in a graduated series from about 3200 to 12000.

4. Apply Bare Metal Foil as needed.

5. Apply one or two additional coats of clear gloss.

6. When all is thoroughly cured, wax and buff with Novus #2

For Tamiya synthetic lacquers (decanted for use in airbrush):

1. Apply main color (usually three or four thin coats, over primer or not as desired)

2. Micromesh

3. If necessary, repeat steps 1 and 2 until satisfied with smoothness and depth of sheen.

4. After applying foil you can seal the finish with a coat or two of Future.

NOTE that you can NOT apply Future over a surface that's been waxed with Novus #1 or #2 without thoroughly washing the surface first.

Old Blind Dog

[Chorse6]

Additional thing which I haven't seen mentioned. On Swanny's page, he has a blurb about using Future with Simple Green. It tells that it gives an "wet," shiny look. I tried it with a cheap aircraft and I was pretty impressed with the high gloss. May be worth a try on some scrap to see if you want to do it for a whole car.

[niart17]

i agree about micromesh..the stuff is great. the only thing to be careful of is you have to make sure you lay down enough paint otherwise, no matter how careful you are sanding, you can "burn" thru to the primer or plastic pretty fast and then you pretty much have to start over unless you're really good at spot painting.

to me, it's the closest thing to how real show cars are painted. i am using it on a blue angel build right now.. pretty hard on an f-18 because of all the crevices.

Bill

[dews]

Thanks for all the help guys.

9thstormo, do you know of any companies that make aftermarket stuff for cars. Specifically I was looking for some Saleen Rims or at the least some bigger tires than the ones that come in the kit.

[9thstormo]

Yes,

here's a couple of links that I hope will be of help:

http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/index.php?c...t=2a&page=1

and:

http://www.automobilminiaturen.de/index.ph...8e58c6885fb9a81

It's a bit difficult to order directly, though not impossible, from this German company. They do not accept credit cards, and thay have expensive shipping rates as well. That said, you can order several of the lines carried by this company (they are also the proprietors of 'Scale Production') from this US retailer:

http://www.stradasports.com/