chuck540z3 Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 I've been adding the odd brass photo-etched part to my models and one thing I've found is that the cyanoacrylate glue doesn't bond to the bare metal very well. If it's just a brass part that fits flush, then everything's OK, but if it's a situation where stuff has to stick together to form a larger part, I find that any stress on the completed part will make it fall apart. I've been using fairly typical CA (thick gap filling) glue. Is it just me or am I doing something wrong? TIA Quote Link to post Share on other sites
T-bone Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 I've been adding the odd brass photo-etched part to my models and one thing I've found is that the cyanoacrylate glue doesn't bond to the bare metal very well. If it's just a brass part that fits flush, then everything's OK, but if it's a situation where stuff has to stick together to form a larger part, I find that any stress on the completed part will make it fall apart. I've been using fairly typical CA (thick gap filling) glue. Is it just me or am I doing something wrong? TIA Usually it helps to sand the parts with wet/dry paper prior to putting them together to improve adhesion. I usually do this and don't have issues with CA adhering to the bare metal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawkeye's Hobbies Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 or dip them (if unpainted) into vinegar to etch the brass to better accept paint. Rinse with water to stop the reaction before gluing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted March 28, 2008 Author Share Posted March 28, 2008 The parts I tried to put together are in the pic below of the Lion Roar 1/32 F/A-18 set. The nozzles need to be strong when assembled in order to fit into the body properly. Each blade is seperate, so it's difficult to get it to look right without using too much glue. After a bunch of attempts, I gave up and I'm using the plastic kit parts now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dknights Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 (edited) Use the "rubber infused" super glue. It has shear as well as tensile strength and is mutch better for attaching photoetch. The stuff at my hobby shop use to be black, but now it is clear just like the other superglues. Edited March 28, 2008 by dknights Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GEH737 Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 What's the name of this "rubber infused" super glue??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjwood_uk Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 and dont forget, just like a new kit you need to wash a new p/e set. they can have residue from the etching chemicals left on them which will cause paint and glue to not bond properly. after you have washed them, dont worry if and brownish stains apear. these are just residues from chemicals in the water (floride/chlorine....etc) they will not effect the painting/gluing process. ..obviously it depends on what the water in your area is like and when they last time the chemicals were topped up in the water systems. Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris_UK Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 From what i heard GATOR glue is highly recommended Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patrick_Nevin Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 and dont forget, just like a new kit you need to wash a new p/e set. they can have residue from the etching chemicals left on them which will cause paint and glue to not bond properly. I'm not sure that's not a double-edged sword? Have a look at the enclosed pic of some etch: It's definitely corroding from atmospheric or handling moisture (high copper ratio in the brass contributing?) I'd personally be worried that by dipping in water it would accelerate this rust and - as a man in a dive shop once rather scarily did to a mask I'd just paid for - maybe think about waving a flame near the stuff to burn off the grease (etc) instead? Also wondering about dipping this particular etch in Coke to clear the oxidation, which I've heard works on 'brown' coins - but only after trying a non-used corner first :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjwood_uk Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 iv never had a problem with washing p/e in water or it rusting. i may be lucky! the flame cound work i supose, but if your going to anniel it anyway... Also wondering about dipping this particular etch in Coke to clear the oxidation, which I've heard works on 'brown' coins - but only after trying a non-used corner first could work indeed. i got a silver necklace for my 18th birthday from my parents. every once in a while i leave it in a bottle/glass of coke over night. still looks brand new!!! Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redruffensore Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 Here's the answer to all your problems. You'll probably never use CA on models again. Gator Glue Caz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Impatient Pete Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 I'd personally be worried that by dipping in water it would accelerate this rust and Dude, copper doesn't rust- Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patrick_Nevin Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 Dude, copper doesn't rust-Pete Ah, sir, you know what I mean Goes green and manky....oxidises? As for annealing it first, maybe that's why I have a more hate than love relationship with etch... I use Slow-Zap though to stick it down, and that bit of the process is usually painless. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dixieflyer Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 Copper and brass get verdigris (sp?), that green "rust" you see on brass fittings on leather goods, etc. FWIW, Warren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
I love airbrushing Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 (edited) I dunno why you hate the poor little CA glue, it works fine for me. Edited March 31, 2008 by I love airbrushing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FlyingSnowmew Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I use two part epoxy for PE parts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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