Sabre Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 Currently pecking away on Tamiya 32nd F4E.....VERY special build.....and using a mix bag of OOB & resin parts for the instrument panels......cut out the OOB part that goes around the radar pedestal/scope...using the resin one there.....saw a tiny gap all the way around..now this would be a heck of a putty & sand job...would be sure to royally mess up...soooo...glanced over & saw the 'ol trusty bottle of Elmer's white glue.....applied it with a toothpick around the gap....took slightly damp Q-Tip and smoothed it along the gap....allowed to dry overnight...came back....painted it matching interior grey colour...VIOLA'. No more gap at all...looks factory..... Nothing like sticking to the basics, ya know...;) Good to go, Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gervais8 Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 Jim, Great tip. Two things a guy can't go without: Elmers White Glue and Duct Tape! RG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lgl007 Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 I've use this technique as well... but I've always been worried about what good 'ol white glue will do with age? Does it shrink, separate, crumble... etc... I hope not. Still being the eternal pessimist that I am I try and use it on areas that should the worst ever happen it will not be noticeable. -Greg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjwood_uk Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 yup. works a charm!!! Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chuck1945 Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 I've use this technique as well... but I've always been worried about what good 'ol white glue will do with age? Does it shrink, separate, crumble... etc... I hope not. Still being the eternal pessimist that I am I try and use it on areas that should the worst ever happen it will not be noticeable.-Greg White glue does shrink as it dries, but once cured, further shrinkage will not occur. For hairline gaps it works quite well, and excess can be wiped off with a damp 'Q' tip. However, for larger gaps, it may take two (or more) applications due to the shrinkage. I like it for canopies that dont quite fit since the excess can be wiped off and it wont damage either the paint work or the canopy itself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fishwelding Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 The same technique can be used with Two-part epoxy glue and alcohol. I frequently fill seams at wingroots with JB Weld, scrubbing away the excess with Q-tips or even paper towels soaked with Isopropyl. If working around canopies, be careful to make sure all unwanted epoxy is removed, or play it safe and stick with white glue. The advantage to Epoxy, on the other hand, is added strength. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marine4 ever Posted May 30, 2008 Share Posted May 30, 2008 Jim,Great tip. Two things a guy can't go without: Elmers White Glue and Duct Tape! RG you forgot wire! i use white glue alot when filling in small seams. more than putty just cause it's so darn easy to use. semper fi Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bri2k Posted May 30, 2008 Share Posted May 30, 2008 White glue is great for filling small gaps and downright excellent for attaching canopies! Now I never again need worry about clear parts crazing or getting cement blobs on them. "Gator Glue" is great for canopies too and seems to dry faster and hold a little stronger. One odd thing about white glue like Elmer's is it tends to react poorly with Testor's acrylics (at least when hand-brushing them). Once I filled in some etched letters etc. on a Gee Bee model and when I went to paint over the white glue, the Testor's paint orange-peeled badly. I ended out stripping off the paint and glue and filling the offending letters etc. with typewriter correction fluid. Bri2k Quote Link to post Share on other sites
afyeats Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 Mixing a small amount white glue with water until it is paintable works well,too. I use it to fill the gaps between clear plastic and solid plastic. Works great. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Julien (UK) Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 Jim, you can use tamyia filler (or other solvent based filler) for a job like this and wipe of the excess with a q-tip and acetone, same principle different product. Julien Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Impatient Pete Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Jim,you can use tamyia filler (or other solvent based filler) for a job like this and wipe of the excess with a q-tip and acetone, same principle different product. Julien Won't the acetone damage the plastic? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shockwave Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 (edited) If the parts are at right angles (or there abouts) and the seams aren't too wide, you can fill a pretty big area with white glue. I filled the entire length on the inboard of the intakes on my Tomcat and I reckon it come out pretty decent. :) I had only applied cement on the inside of the joint so I had a long (but fairly thin) seam along the outside. It took a couple of sessions to get the right amount of glue, but it beats all the smelly stuff and, no sanding whatsoever!! Edited June 3, 2008 by shockwave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eretik Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Won't the acetone damage the plastic?Pete Acetone will attack plastic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eretik Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 How resistant the White Glue(fully dried) to the water? It seems that this resistance is not so good. I have so-called water-resistant White Glue, but small prints explains that in fact its only moisture-resistant. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
afyeats Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 How resistant the White Glue(fully dried) to the water? It seems that this resistance is not so good. I have so-called water-resistant White Glue, but small prints explains that in fact its only moisture-resistant. Once the white glue has set, it is resistant to water. However, if you were to soak the joint in warm water, it would dissolve. So, don't soak the joint in water. The glue will stand up to enamel paint OK and is not affected by it. Just don't use white glue to hold major assemblies together. That is the job of regular glues, liquid glues and CA type glue. White glue only will hold things like wood or paper or tissue well. I have heard of armour guys using while glue & tissue paper (wrapping paper, not nose ) to create scale tarps and the like. Good luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScottD Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Jim,you can use tamyia filler (or other solvent based filler) for a job like this and wipe of the excess with a q-tip and acetone, same principle different product. Julien Better off using denatured Alcohol instead...wont damage the plastic... Anyways...is there a better method for filling in panel lines then using Mr Surfacer or Mr Dissolved putty? I'm trying to fill in the panel lines on my P-51 wings and it seems like the filler never stays in the cracks when i want it to, but when I dont want it to it does... maybe I'll try some thin super glue with accelerator next time... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScottD Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 How resistant the White Glue(fully dried) to the water? It seems that this resistance is not so good. I have so-called water-resistant White Glue, but small prints explains that in fact its only moisture-resistant. There is another type of white glue out there that you can use that sticks plastic together better...I know Pacer makes it but the name is escaping me at the moment....I use it to install canopies all the time and works great Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rick in Maine Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 In the library trade we use a white PVA glue. Water soluble when wet, dries water-proof, remains flexible, fairly clear when set. Once it's set up it doesn't deteriorate in humidity. Also good for canopies. Go to your local library and ask the person who handles book repairs for a bit of it and see if it works for you. I like it for canopies. Only drawback is it is usually sold in big bottles. But you all are good friends with your local librarians? Right? Rick in Maine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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