Gloss cote and dull cote question

[AtomicBomber]

Hi,

I know this question gets asked a lot but I'm confused on applying gloss and dull lacquers.

After painting the model I know you must spray on a gloss cote and then put the decals on

and this is where I'm confused.

Do you just spray one coat of gloss before the decals go on

and then the dull cote? Or do you have to spray a other cote of gloss lacquer over the placed

decals and then the final dull cote? Is the sequence gloss cote, decals, gloss cote and finally dull cote?

I'm using Testors lacquers and working with Cutting edge decals for a 1/48 B-1B.

Thanks for any help,

Regards.

[Dave Williams]

I've heard of people putting on a second glosscoat after the decals, but I usually just do a flat coat after the decals.

[AtomicBomber]

I've heard of people putting on a second glosscoat after the decals, but I usually just do a flat coat after the decals.

Ah, okay thanks. I just wasn't sure if you needed the second gloss coat or not.

I'm glad I don't because I just have enough lacquer left for one coat.

[David Walker]

I usually hit the decals with another coat of gloss, so that when I use an acrylic wash it will flow smoothly down the panel lines that the decals have sunk into. After the wash I use the dull coat.

[DutyCat]

I assume you are using Testors lacquers.

With the gloss coat, just one pass isn't going to cut it. It dries quick, so put on a couple/three thin coats and it will gloss up nice. If you don't have a solid gloss finish you risk silvering.

If you spray flatcoat directly over the decals, you are likely going to be able to see the edge of the decal film. This stuff goes on very thin. I have even seen the decal film after putting on a coat of Testors glosscoat to "seal" them before Testors dullcoating.

So I recommend this sequence.

1. Testors glosscoat

2. Decals

3. Thin coat of acrylic gloss. Future works fine and goes on thin.

4. Weathering with enamel washes/oils/watercolors. The acrylic gloss will protect the paint and decals during this step.

5. Testors dullcoat

6. Further weathering with pastel chalks.

Also, after pastel chalk weathering, your're done. If you try to go back and coat the chalks with dullcoat, most of the effect you have achieved will disappear because the dullcoat will cover the light reflecting qualities of the pastels. So let it go at this pint. The chalk will stay on no problem. Think of it as real dirt on a real aircraft!

Edited June 1, 2008 by DutyCat

[AtomicBomber]

Thanks for the repley DutyCat. How long do you wait after applying the decals to put the next cote if gloss on the model.

Should you wait 24 hours for the decals to dry or can you do it in the same day?

[DutyCat]

Thanks for the repley DutyCat. How long do you wait after applying the decals to put the next cote if gloss on the model.

Should you wait 24 hours for the decals to dry or can you do it in the same day?

I always wait 24 hours after decaling before putting on the Future. Water has air disolved in it, so if things are still damp, you might get some silvering if you attempt to overcoat too quickly. Don't know for sure as I have never pushed it. Before overcoating, look at all of the decals carefully from all angles in good light to make sure there is no silvering. If you see any, use a pin to prick the decal and apply more setting solution, or even perhaps a stronger brand like Solvaset. If that doesn't work put some Future directly on the decal with a brush. The Future will pull the decal down if it being unusually difficult.

I didn't mention this, but make sure you use lacquer thinner for the Testors gloss/dullcoats.

Results using this method:

Edited June 1, 2008 by DutyCat

[AtomicBomber]

Thanks DutyCat, your post have been a great help. I will follow the sequence you have given.

Lucky for me I didn't rush into putting the lacquers on or decals yet. I'm glad I asked for help first.

Thanks again,

regards.