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Adam Baker

Need some help from the Guru's

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First off, I need to give a huge shout out to Dan Marine4Ever for all the help that he's already given me, in building my CH-53 that im doing for the GB.

But I thought I'd post this up, to get more pointers & tips.

For my '53, Im wanting to scratch build at least 1 engine, possibly 2, since the '53 uses 2 different types of engines, so I thought about doing each type.

Im also wanting to do several compartments. There are 3 compartments around the nose. One each under the pilot & co-pilot, and then one front & center on the nose. I want to open all 3 of these compartments. Dan's gotten me some awesome shots of the compartment under the pilot, and Ive found some pic's of the compartment under the co-pilot, where the tubing for the refueling boom enters the fuselage. Havent found one yet for the compartment on the nose.

Im also wanting to do some of hte compartments along the spine up top, including the compartment at the very front under the dog house where the APP is located.

What I need help w/, is pointers & such, on how to scratch build engines, and compartments. Dan's given me some very very helpful suggestions on how to remove the compartment doors w/o loosing the doors, which is something of major concern to me at the moment.

Fwiw, here are some of the area's Im looking at doing

General Electric T64-GE-416(A) (Rear Engine on Port side)

engine05.jpg

General Electric T64-GE-416 (Forward Engines on Port & Starboard side)

engine04.jpg

A perfect shot of how i'd like mine to look when done. One intake cover completely removed, Dog House open exposing the APP, and the avionics comparment open

2658857031_389248b08d_b.jpg

Here's a shot of the compartment on the co-pilot side

http://www.thepavecave.com/linpha/viewer.p...=40&stage=2

Edited by Adam Baker

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:blink: good luck! I know I couldn't do that... I would say that #1, you should look and see whats in your spare box and see what looks useful. Also, for the orange tubing on the forward engines, use like headphone wires with the protective stuff still on it because I think it would give that texture. Use sheet styrene to build up the box areas for under the copilot/pilot and engine areas.

Hopefully thats a helpful start...

Austin

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Well I would start by studying the pics and drawing them out with some sense of measurement. You will have to guess-at-mate by comparing the kit parts to the photos. Then I’d go and buy up some Evergreen plastics, rods, hex-rods, sheets or what ever else I may need. Before I’d invest any money into wires I’d raid the kid’s old broken toys, radios and phones. You’d be amazed what can be found. I like to use soldering wire, it can be bought cheaply and in many sizes. Also it paints well and is very workable. scratch building is not all that hard, with just a bit of time and practice you’ll be building in no time. Also there are enough members here who have enough knowledge of those parts…

Looking forward to your start,

Joe

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First off, I need to give a huge shout out to Dan Marine4Ever for all the help that he's already given me, in building my CH-53 that im doing for the GB.

But I thought I'd post this up, to get more pointers & tips.

For my '53, Im wanting to scratch build at least 1 engine, possibly 2, since the '53 uses 2 different types of engines, so I thought about doing each type.

Im also wanting to do several compartments. There are 3 compartments around the nose. One each under the pilot & co-pilot, and then one front & center on the nose. I want to open all 3 of these compartments. Dan's gotten me some awesome shots of the compartment under the pilot, and Ive found some pic's of the compartment under the co-pilot, where the tubing for the refueling boom enters the fuselage. Havent found one yet for the compartment on the nose.

Im also wanting to do some of hte compartments along the spine up top, including the compartment at the very front under the dog house where the APP is located.

What I need help w/, is pointers & such, on how to scratch build engines, and compartments. Dan's given me some very very helpful suggestions on how to remove the compartment doors w/o loosing the doors, which is something of major concern to me at the moment.

Fwiw, here are some of the area's Im looking at doing

General Electric T64-GE-416(A) (Rear Engine on Port side)

engine05.jpg

General Electric T64-GE-416 (Forward Engines on Port & Starboard side)

engine04.jpg

A perfect shot of how i'd like mine to look when done. One intake cover completely removed, Dog House open exposing the APP, and the avionics comparment open

2658857031_389248b08d_b.jpg

Here's a shot of the compartment on the co-pilot side

http://www.thepavecave.com/linpha/viewer.p...=40&stage=2

Nice photos!!! That will help with my 1/35 scale ch-53

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Thankfully Ive got an almost endless supply of wire from work, of varying gauges, so that will help, and Ive got a few different types of solder that should hopefully work well.

Thanks for the advice.

Well I would start by studying the pics and drawing them out with some sense of measurement. You will have to guess-at-mate by comparing the kit parts to the photos. Then I’d go and buy up some Evergreen plastics, rods, hex-rods, sheets or what ever else I may need. Before I’d invest any money into wires I’d raid the kid’s old broken toys, radios and phones. You’d be amazed what can be found. I like to use soldering wire, it can be bought cheaply and in many sizes. Also it paints well and is very workable. scratch building is not all that hard, with just a bit of time and practice you’ll be building in no time. Also there are enough members here who have enough knowledge of those parts…

Looking forward to your start,

Joe

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For my '53, Im wanting to scratch build at least 1 engine, possibly 2, since the '53 uses 2 different types of engines, so I thought about doing each type.

Just a little technical clarification. There are indeed two types of engines the 53 uses, but it doesn't have anything to do with where they are located. Actually the differences are all internal and have to do with engine performance - which is about all I can divulge about that. However, you are quite right to notice plumbing differences in the #2 engine from the #1 and #3 and they quite different in that respect.

OK so when I build engines the biggest piece of advice I can give you is do wire at a time. If you have multiple reffences confirm the start and end of a line and be patient untill you get them all on. All the parts and pieces are usually groups of cylinders and cubes married together. Plastic strip and rod can be glued together to make the overall shapes you need. For intakes I use Milliput or body filler and to make a rugh shape then carve and sand to final shape. Try telescoping aluminum tube for the engine casing if you don't have a lathe or have not tried turning parts.

How about this shot - found it on the web somewhere and collected it.

dsc01079tn1.jpg

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Oh man. What can I do to repay you? haha

That is the absolute perfect shot of that compartment.

As for the engines, I hadnt thought about turning metal for it. I have access to several lathes in the machining classes Im taking, so thats an option. Figured I'd either use metal tubing or plastic tubing, as a starting point.

Im hoping to get more pic's of the engines. The company I work for deals very heavily w/ General Electric, on their power generation side, but we do a little work I think, for the aerospace side. So Im hoping we may have a contact that could possibly get me more pic's of the engines. Im also scrounging the internet, and have found several good pic's, but I always want more.

As far as the differences of the engines, I'd have to agree that the majority of hte differences are internal. Comparing the images I have, the external casings are almost identical, w/ several of the exterior components & wiring being pretty much the same. The largest outward difference is that the #2 engine appears to be rotated downward, compared to 1 & 3. The yellow control box is the biggest indication of its position, but all the wiring & such shows it as well. But they are different enough that I'd like to model them.

Edited by Adam Baker

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