JasonB Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 (edited) Thanks for the comments on my last batch. Some of these are still in progress US advisor in Vietnam 1964 or so WIP Conversion of verlinden fig with Miniature alliance parts Regimental S-4 120mm USMC flame thrower operator Iwo Jima replacement head, almost finished 54mm Andea Maximus WIP added greaves Kirin 1/12th LRRP nearly finished raised left arm just a bit Warriors USMC Korea 1/16 almost finished replaced BAR with Garand Edited July 27, 2008 by jburch Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChernayaAkula Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Another nice batch of figures! Do keep posting those! The tiger stripe camo looks amazing! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Gudbergsson Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Awesome Cheers Andy G Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fishwelding Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Excellent work! Perhaps you might share with us some thoughts on figure painting? I use artists oils myself, having tried acrylics numerous times with only indifferent results. Oils do well for me, but I'd like to escape the tyranny of their long drying time and added mess. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JasonB Posted July 27, 2008 Author Share Posted July 27, 2008 (edited) Excellent work! Perhaps you might share with us some thoughts on figure painting? I use artists oils myself, having tried acrylics numerous times with only indifferent results. Oils do well for me, but I'd like to escape the tyranny of their long drying time and added mess. My basic technique for painting the flesh area is base coat with acrylics, overpaint with oils. I can't do acrylic flesh tones at all, they require too much patience and too many steps to get good gradual transitions. The uniforms generally stay acrylic, with oils used to highlight and shadow them. I call it 'wet brushing', because instead of the normal method of blending oils paints 'wet on wet', the oils go on in a dry brush method over top of the dry acrylics (for the highlights), then are blended out until I am OK with it. The shadows are put in almost like a wash, but the paint is a little thicker, and I do each fold individually. Then they are blended out. The oils are translucent, so they darken the base coat without covering it up. In armor modeling these days they refer to a wash that changes the base color as a 'filter'. I have been doing it like this for years without knowing there was a term for it, but there you have it.This is really useful for camo uniforms. If you want to speed up your oil paint drying time, you can place your figs in a warm oven (set at its lowest heat setting) for about 15-20 minutes. I have heard of folks using a crock pot as well. This will not only dry it out quickly, but give it a dead flat finish. Experiment on spare figs to make sure you aren't going to melt them down! Oils can leave a glossy sheen (as seen on my Maximus figure in the reds) so this will also keep you from having to go back over the figure with a flat overspray. My preferred paints are Windsor and Newton oils (not Winton, which are the bargain brand of W&N, and aren't as good) and for acrylics, I use the Delta Ceramacaot that you can get at Wal Mart for $1! They work really well when properly thinned, and I have heard from other figure painters that they go on as nice as some of the bigger name paints like Andrea and Vallejo. HTH Jason Edited July 27, 2008 by jburch Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lgl007 Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Jason, Your figures are just spectacular... I wish I could paint figures like that... FANTASTIC! -Greg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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