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1/32 MiG-29 Details and corrections


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Wheels are almost ready!

Wheels1.jpg

The hubs are mastered by Alexander (Eastern).

Again, if you haven't checked out his website, do treat yourself: http://pilot64.gallery.ru/ !

Be sure to look at the incredible Missiles he is currently working on! I have the AA-8 master and I can honestly say that it looks even better than in the pictures!!!

:thumbsup:

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Wheels are almost ready!

Wheels1.jpg

The hubs are mastered by Alexander (Eastern).

Again, if you haven't checked out his website, do treat yourself: http://pilot64.gallery.ru/ !

Be sure to look at the incredible Missiles he is currently working on! I have the AA-8 master and I can honestly say that it looks even better than in the pictures!!!

Wow! Chris, that look really great! Thanks also for the generous words on my work. I really stuck with those missiles, can't rein my horses in not to add any small detail to the missilles' boby. :D

I hope with the luck to complete Alamo A body in a week and then start lathe turn Alamo B rear section. :cheers:

Cheers!

Alexander.

:thumbsup:

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WOW, those do look great! Would love to see the same treatment on the Su-27 wheels, while I've done a little scratchbuilding on mine for the hydraulics, the hub itself is where I keep getting stuck.

Chris - order forthcoming on the MiG set, and all subsequent products!

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  • 1 month later...
This is the Revell US kit #4717:

PICT2881.jpg

The Revell Germany kit #04707 (also kit #4799):

PICT2882.jpg

(One of these is currently available on Ebay and includes the TAC cockpit. >>>Link<<< )

If anybody knows of any kits collecting dust on you local hobby shop shelves please post the info here!

As far as I know these are the only two boxings of the kit (not counting the two-seater MiG-29UB kit #4751).

As I mentioned, I'll be including the extra parts that are necessary for the RoG kit in all sets so you can use this on the US kit if you want.

In fact there is another Revell boxing of the one seater. The one above 04707 is also a bit rarer than the one I just couldn't find a picture of right now, but it exists.

It has the classic Soviet AF camo scheme. Here in Germany they do pop up on ebay on a regular basis and in the past I've seen some go for under 40Euros! :worship:

Maybe not anymore, unfortunately, but still a lot cheaper than the original shelf price. I can only recommend ebay.de for 1/32 kits like this for example and if you, Zactoman, need a german connection for stocking up your stash I'll be glad to help! B) ... I know most of the local hobby shops here in Berlin...

Unfortunately I am a 1/48er and I envy everyone of your customers... :)

PLEASE SOMEONE GIVE THE ACADEMY SU-27 and MIG-29 KITS SOME LOVE! :worship:

rg

Martin

BTW, Mr. Zactoman, do you know Mr. Opitz's work here: :D

7603_3.JPG

More stuff from the same man - that definitely blows my mind - is coming soon, hehe.....

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  • 3 months later...
In fact there is another Revell boxing of the one seater. The one above 04707 is also a bit rarer than the one I just couldn't find a picture of right now, but it exists.
One of my freinds sent me this pic of Revell-Germany kit #4799.

RG4799sm.jpg

At the Nats I had a talk with the Revell guys and tried to convince them to re-release the kit. They seemed interested and were going to mention it when they returned to Revell HQ, so we'll see... :pray:

How a bout a New SU-27 wing tip rail. Please.
Su-27 wingtip rails are the first thing I'm going to work on once I'm caught up on orders and answering e-mails.

The kit provided ones are horrible...The kit provided Archer missile fins contact the under-surface of the wings and since Alexanders parts have more accurate, longer fins the situation is even worse.

I will eventually be doing a full set of pylons for the Su-27 but will still sell the wingtip pylons separately for those who don't want to invest that much more in the kit...

Alexander is currently mastering pylons for the MiG-29: http://pilot64.gallery.ru/watch?a=nF1-TMH (scroll to the latest pictures at the end). As usual, his work is looking outstanding :jaw-dropping:

For those MiG-29 fans who may have missed it, the new wheels are now available:

Wheels2a.jpg

The wheel set also includes pre-cut vinyl paint masks as well as 6 tiny resin fittings with instructions showing how to add brake-line details.

:)

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  • 6 months later...

Pylons are finished (beautifully mastered by Alexander!) but I haven't done the instruction sheet yet:

MiG_29_Pylon1.jpg

I'll get to it soon...

9-13 Fulcrum C conversion is almost finished:

91-13_spine1.jpg

Here's the first wingtip:

91-13_tip1.jpg

Another shot of the underside showing the funky lumps at the tip:

91-13_tip2.jpg

I'll try to take some in-progress pics of the other wingtip.

:thumbsup:

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Pylons are finished (beautifully mastered by Alexander!) but I haven't done the instruction sheet yet:

MiG_29_Pylon1.jpg

I'll get to it soon...

Are these going to be available as a fixed set or will there be a possibility to get them separately? I mean, some of them might be used for the Trumpeter MiG-29M. And also, the picture shows the AA-10, AA-11 and AA-8 launchers together, but IIRC the MiG-29 9.12 WCS didn't support a combination of different short range missiles so only one type could be used. This was probably changed on the 9.13S if it supported AA-12 missiles; not sure about the base 9.13. So, maybe the set can be customized (e.g. like 2xAA-10 launchers + 4xAA-8 or AA-11 launchers)? :bandhead2:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Missiles pylons are now available!

Are these going to be available as a fixed set or will there be a possibility to get them separately?
The full set includes 1 pair of each.

The APU-73 and APU-60 can also be purchased separately (in pairs).

Second wingtip is progressing.

Here is a basic step-by-step of how I made them:

First step is to cut up the originals wings. I used a fine saw blade from UMM.

I found that the wings were slightly different thicknesses so I sanded the thicker one to match the other. This will mean some additional dry-fitting for the customers. I will recommend removing material from the mating surfaces of the wing halves before gluing them together.

Tip1.jpg

Next I filled the existing panel lines and rivet details with Tamiya Light Cure Putty (Awesome stuff!)

Tip2.jpg

A little more about the light cure putty.

It's a bit expensive ($15.50 for this tube that I bought several years ago) but great stuff.

You put in it on, hold it under a florescent light for a minute and it's ready to file and sand. (There is a surface residue that needs to be wiped away before sanding. They recommend Tamiya thinner for cleaning it but rubbing alcohol works just fine.)

It's got very low shrinkage (almost none).

It sticks really well and feathers to a nice thin edge.

It files, sands and scribes just like plastic!!!

The only drawback (other than the price) is that it's not available in the US anymore (unless your LHS still has some in stock).

I reshaped the wingtip and added some styrene shapes to work around

Tip3.jpg

I then built up the new shape by applying several layers of the putty

Tip4.jpg

A minute under a florescent bulb and it's ready to shape!

Tip5.jpg

It's easy to file and sand it to shape

Tip6.jpg

Note that I've drawn center-lines to help define the shape as I go.

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After shaping the top surface and end profile I applied more putty to create the bulge details on the underside.

Tip7.jpg

Filed and sanded to shape

Tip8.jpg

Next up are the panel lines.

The first wingtip required carefully laying out each line and rivet.

I scanned the finished part to create a pattern for the second.

Here I cut out the printed, reversed scan and carefully poke a sharp compass point through each intersection to lay out the lines.

I'm just barely poking the tip through the paper, just enough to leave a small mark.

I then remove the paper, smear some black pencil in the tiny pin holes and use Dymo tape as a guide for scribing the lines.

Tip9.jpg

Check out the pictures and explanation of this on my YF-23 build >>>HERE (post #129)<<<

Dymo is great for straight lines but for curved lines I use flexible vinyl tape

Tip10.jpg

I then use a curved X-acto blade (#10) and carefully scribe a line along the tape making several gentle passes, slowly increasing pressure with each pass.

With the tape still in place I use a medium-sharp straight pin to increase the line. I then remove the tape and run a slightly wider pin to get the final depth and width.

Here I'm transferring the location of an access hatch using the printed scan.

Tip11.jpg

I poke a few small holes at the ends and along the edges.

Just enough to help position a scribe template

Tip12.jpg

Here's an odd shaped panel that I cut using a piece of Dymo tape

Tip13.jpg

I hope you found this little tutorial helpful...

I'll take a few more pics as I do the rivets.

:)

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{~emerges from the shadows...~}

Beautiful work man..just beautiful :coolio:

The pylons look superb and like everything you've done for the MIG they are a "must have" enhancement.

I'm very grateful to you for taking the time and effort to post up this recent tutorial Chris, thank you. It is good of you to share your knowledge and pass on your tips like this, much appreciated big fella :woo: The chosen format is so easy to follow and shows your flawless work in high resolution.

May I ask, how much emphasis do you put on matching the Revell parts? Do you try to recreate the same details that their surface shows so that the Zactomodel parts blend seamlessly with the kit parts?

The wingtips are magnificent. By the time you have finished, there will probably only be 5% of the Revell kit left :lol:

Keep up the good work Sir :thumbsup: My PayPal account is poised and ready. I'm waiting until you have finished all of your enhancements and then I'll send you an order for the lot to try to save on postage if that's ok?

:cheers:

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Thank you for the "how-to" pictures. You make it look so easy, but i am sure if attempted that, my work would look like S***. :P

PS: Have you seen the new YF-23 cockpit pictures?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the nice comments. I'm happy to share techniques when I can and hope they help.

Moving on to the riveting, not much to see here so I'll refer you to the article that I posted in the "Tools 'n' Tips" section on the homepage: "Riveting"

As with the panel lines, I took advantage of the fact that the first side was already finished and used a reversed scan to lay out the rivets.

In this case I cut up the scan into individual panels to help ensure alignment.

Also note the individual access panels that I created in Adobe Illustrator to lay out the rivet patterns.

I lightly poked holes through the paper then smeared black (watercolor or water soluble pencil) into the tiny holes.

I then poked each mark with a slightly blunted pin, adjusting the location of any that looked off and repeated with a slightly larger one for the larger rivets.

On the areas with Tamiya Light Cure Putty I used a small drill bit rather than poking with pins as the putty does tend to chip a little when applying pressure like that.

Sand with 1200 wet, toothbrush the surface and re-do any that needed it.

Goof-ups and slips were fixed with thick superglue and tiny fixes were done with Mr. Surfacer 500.

I then sprayed a thin coat of Mr. Surfacer 1000 to check everything out.

Tip14.jpg

The finished casted parts with a watercolor wash:

Tip15.jpg

May I ask, how much emphasis do you put on matching the Revell parts? Do you try to recreate the same details that their surface shows so that the Zactomodel parts blend seamlessly with the kit parts?
Yes I did try to make them to blend with the existing kit surface detail.

In doing so I simplified some of the rivet detail that is present on the real thing and slightly tweaked some panel line locations.

Here is how it looks on the kit wing:

Tip16.jpg

And here is how the whole conversion looks when combined with my correction set:

9-13.jpg

I have a few adjustments to make on the spine to improve the fit then I will pour a final production mold.

It's getting close!

:wasntme:

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Waiting patiently....

Will the Fulcrum C conversion set come with the regular MiG-29 correcntion set parts? Or will we need to get a set of the correction parts and a Fulcrum C set separately to get our 9-13?

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