Brush marks using PollyScale Flat - how to fix?

[Chicago Tom]

I'm almost done building my Hawk 48th P-51D. I used Tamiya spary paint, followed by a coat of Future, then decals and weathering - but now I'm in trouble.

I decided to brush on PollyScale Flat for my final flat coat, since I'd heard such great things about it. The bottle says it can be brush-painted. I really don't like airbrushing because I hate the cleanup. But the problem is, now that the flat coat is dry, I see terrible brush marks.

So how can I fix this? I don't want to strip it if I can possibly avoid it. Can I polish out the brush marks with sandpaper? (Or use a polishing cream such as Novus?). Or perhaps I could mix some Future with PollyScale Flat and brush over it again - maybe Future's self-leveling properties will eliminate brush marks?

Any other ideas? Thanks for your help!

All the best,

Tom Test

[Old Man]

Fine sand-paper might well work, Sir. It will take time, and you will want to use very fine grits, 1000 and up. You will want to be sure the flat-coat is very dry, a couple of days at least, because if you are sanding over incompletely cured stuff you can find it coming off in patches with perceptible ridges around them. Trust me on that one: I sand paint all the time....

Pollyscale flat works well by brush, in fact all the Pollyscale acrylic line does. But you do have to be careful in application, and be sure the stuff is well mixed. It helps to thin it a little as well, and to use as little as you can manage in applying a coat. Above all, never, ever, go back over a patch you have already brushed paint on while you are painting a surface.

[mlicari]

Above all, never, ever, go back over a patch you have already brushed paint on while you are painting a surface.

Old Man's advice is good. This sentence in particular. Ask me how I know.

Mike

[Old Man]

. Ask me how I know.

Mike

I expect, Sir, the same way I learned about patching when you sand and it is not completely cured. I like to think I get decent final finishes, at least, but seldom go into detail concerning how, as I feel any account of painting that includes words like '600 grit sandpaper' and 'edge of an Exacto blade' is more properly regarded as a cautionary tale or horror story than sound advice or an example to emulate....

[mlicari]

I expect, Sir, the same way I learned about patching when you sand and it is not completely cured. I like to think I get decent final finishes, at least, but seldom go into detail concerning how, as I feel any account of painting that includes words like '600 grit sandpaper' and 'edge of an Exacto blade' is more properly regarded as a cautionary tale or horror story than sound advice or an example to emulate....

It seems that you and I share the same finishing techniques (such as they are)! I like to think of it (or rationalize it) as a way to "spend more time doing the hobby I love".

Mike

[Chicago Tom]

Thanks Old Man and Mike!

I'll give sanding a try in a few days then. (FWIW, I did use a Badger battery-powered mixer to stir the paint first, as I had heard it was important). Next time, I'll try adding a little thinner, maybe some retarder to see if that makes a difference.

All the best,

Tom Test

[Old Blind Dog]

Some advice for next time: Polly Scale can be hand-brushed with excellent effect, but you have to thin it properly. There are two thinning agents that work extremely well for this (I've gotten superb results with both);

1. Apply about 15 drops of Tamiya X-20 A Thinner to a new bottle. When painting, have a container of X-20 at the ready. Dip the brush into the thinner before loading it with Polly Scale EVERY TIME. Be sure to wipe excess PS from the brush before applying paint to model. This gives you superb even coverage and I never have any brush strokes. Always use good quality soft red sable brushes.

2. Thin the Polly Scale with a mixture of Liquitex Flow Aid Flow Enhancer and distilled water. Thin to the consistency of skim milk.

As noted above, apply long even strokes. Do not go over the same area more than once. Be gentle with the strokes and take your time. I've hand-brushed Polly Scale Clear Gloss on large 1/32 models without a single visible brush mark.

Also, don't fear the airbrush! May be a little bit of a hassle to clean but the results are well worth it. The airbrush is a tool and like all tools, proper maintenance, cleaning and lube pays big dividends.

<_<

Old Blind Dog