What do you use for Top Coats?

[boscosticks]

1. What do you guys use for your Top Coats (what brand? gloss, flat, dead flat?) and how do you guys prepare it (ratios, number of coats, etc)?

2. What is the difference between the PollyScale Green-label and the Red-label? (sorry if this is a redundant question but I don't know the difference)

Thanks in advanced for all the input!!

Edited September 14, 2008 by boscosticks

[dahut]

Im assuming you mean before and after decals? I dunno about the PollyScale stuff, but I topcoat with Future, lain on thin.

After decals I use the same, and have always applied thin coats of Testors Dullcote over that, once the Future is well cured. I've also used Testors Glosscote, before I discovered Future and even regular polyurethane varnish, thinned well out.

You can dull Future by using Tamiya flat 3:1, I'm told.

And a well stocked art supply store will have acrylic flattening agent should you wish to experiment.

The goal is to keep all these coats as thin as possible, "just wet," and to apply them with just enough air to lay them on. Then let them cure, undisturbed, under a plastic or tin-foil cover.

Edited September 14, 2008 by dahut

[Jennings]

It depends on my mood and what I'm doing. If it's informal, just my Carhartt barn coat usually does it. If it's something more formal, I have a nice wool topcoat that's knee length that's quite warm, although if it's windy, it requires a scarf, as it doesn't button up to the chin. If it gets really cold, I have a parka that I pull out of the back of the closet.

Oh, maybe that's not the kind of top coat you were talking about, eh?

J

[David Walker]

I use Polly Scale Flat most of the time. I know there have been some problems recently (I believe with the red label) with frosting, but I haven't had that happen. Per a suggestion quite a while back from Barneydhc82, I add fifteen drops of Liquitex Flow Aid to each small Polly Scale bottle. Once the bottles are stirred very well (extremely important with Polly Scale) it can be sprayed without any additional thinning. I usually use Future or Polly Scale Gloss as a gloss coat, again unthinned.

[zeus60]

I use Polly Scale Flat most of the time. I know there have been some problems recently (I believe with the red label) with frosting, but I haven't had that happen. Per a suggestion quite a while back from Barneydhc82, I add fifteen drops of Liquitex Flow Aid to each small Polly Scale bottle. Once the bottles are stirred very well (extremely important with Polly Scale) it can be sprayed without any additional thinning. I usually use Future or Polly Scale Gloss as a gloss coat, again unthinned.

Slightly off topic, but I have a question about the Liquitex Flow Aid. The bottle says to dilute the contents with water before using. Do you dilute the Flow Aid before adding, or do you just add the fifteen drops directly from the bottle?

Thanks.

[David Walker]

Slightly off topic, but I have a question about the Liquitex Flow Aid. The bottle says to dilute the contents with water before using. Do you dilute the Flow Aid before adding, or do you just add the fifteen drops directly from the bottle?

No, I use it straight from the bottle.

[zeus60]

No, I use it straight from the bottle.

Thanks. I have used Liquitex Airbrush Medium as a thinner for Polly Scale with good results. Now I've got something else to try!

[I love airbrushing]

Model Master Lacquers: Gloss for pre-decaling, Flat for final coat.

I spray 3 thin coats for each, prepare them with 66% lacquer, 33% thinner.

[Andy Gudbergsson]

Before decalling I use MM gloss and after the decals are on and weathering is applied I use MM Flat to seal the decals and the weathering to the surface. It's really as simply as that. But it depends on what kind of weathering you're applying. If you are highlighting raised panel lines you have to do that after you have applied the decals while the surface is still glossy.

After you have done that you coat the model with a coat or 2 of flat coat, Then you weather the model however you want as far as weathering and then after that you coat your model with a coat or 2 of flat to seal in your weathering. Works for me.

Cheers :)

Andy G

[Bill D.]

It depends on my mood and what I'm doing. If it's informal, just my Carhartt barn coat usually does it. If it's something more formal, I have a nice wool topcoat that's knee length that's quite warm, although if it's windy, it requires a scarf, as it doesn't button up to the chin. If it gets really cold, I have a parka that I pull out of the back of the closet.

Oh, maybe that's not the kind of top coat you were talking about, eh? :)

J

:)

[DJHEFF]

Before decalling I use MM gloss and after the decals are on and weathering is applied I use MM Flat to seal the decals and the weathering to the surface. It's really as simply as that. But it depends on what kind of weathering you're applying. If you are highlighting raised panel lines you have to do that after you have applied the decals while the surface is still glossy.

After you have done that you coat the model with a coat or 2 of flat coat, Then you weather the model however you want as far as weathering and then after that you coat your model with a coat or 2 of flat to seal in your weathering. Works for me.

Cheers :)

Andy G

I like to give them the good old 1 oz. protien shake!

[ChernayaAkula]

How is the Tamiya flat-coat from the rattle can?

[janman]

How is the Tamiya flat-coat from the rattle can?

Good question! I was wondering that myself as well knowing that at least Gunze's Flat Top Coat spray seems to do the trick pretty nicely. But how about Tamiya's product?