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Not quite the Arctic tundra… Outta place F-16’s


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And what is the holstein scheme in relation to the black markings of the aircraft?

(my apologies for possibly deviating this thread off topic)

I'm not sure exactly what you mean drew, but will take a stab at it anyway.

What I was referring to is the large amount of black in the camouflage markings of this aircraft. Black is Black is Black. White is the same thing. On the other hand, Greens, Blues, Tans are all middle tones, in other words Grays if looking at the schemes in monochrome. As I stated earlier a camera's light meter doesn't really look at color, it looks at everything as shades of gray and tries to turn everything into a happy medium 18%. In a scheme like this with a large proportion of black its very easy for a light meter to look at all this black in the center of the image, interpret it as shadow and try to get some more detail out of it by bringing up the EV (exposure value) of those areas. Unfortunately, EVs are applied as a whole across the entire image and if the camera tries to bring up the shadows, it has a very good chance of producing hot spots in the highlights. You don't have as much of an issue with the lizard and smurf schemes are they are more toward middle tones. Best way to avoid this is to look at your histogram and make sure you don't have a spike in the right side (highlights) or some cameras have a setting on the LCD screen in the back where you can see blown out highlights as flashing areas.

NikonD200_Histogram.gif

If you do, reduce the EV settings via the exposure compensation function.

Granted, meters are getting better all the time and with the improved dynamic range of the newest camera sensors, CMOS especially, difficult contrast situations like this are getting handled better and better.

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I'm not sure exactly what you mean drew, but will take a stab at it anyway.

What I was referring to is the large amount of black in the camouflage markings of this aircraft. Black is Black is Black. White is the same thing. On the other hand, Greens, Blues, Tans are all middle tones, in other words Grays if looking at the schemes in monochrome. As I stated earlier a camera's light meter doesn't really look at color, it looks at everything as shades of gray and tries to turn everything into a happy medium 18%. In a scheme like this with a large proportion of black its very easy for a light meter to look at all this black in the center of the image, interpret it as shadow and try to get some more detail out of it by bringing up the EV (exposure value) of those areas. Unfortunately, EVs are applied as a whole across the entire image and if the camera tries to bring up the shadows, it has a very good chance of producing hot spots in the highlights. You don't have as much of an issue with the lizard and smurf schemes are they are more toward middle tones. Best way to avoid this is to look at your histogram and make sure you don't have a spike in the right side (highlights) or some cameras have a setting on the LCD screen in the back where you can see blown out highlights as flashing areas.

NikonD200_Histogram.gif

If you do, reduce the EV settings via the exposure compensation function.

Granted, meters are getting better all the time and with the improved dynamic range of the newest camera sensors, CMOS especially, difficult contrast situations like this are getting handled better and better.

I see that kind of answers my question. My camera's live view also has a histogram mode in which it will display the histogram in the lower right of the screen, I'll see if I can test out some shots using that.

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