How I cement my models

[Eric2020]

I am thinking on how to get my models build as clean as possible. Also I use to use glue on both sides to make an better bond. How do others do it?? So that is my poll

[volzj]

I use Tenax or Ambroid Pro-Weld. I apply with a very fine brush just touching to the seam, rather than applying to surfaces.

It is very strong and fast drying, and unless you spill it builds into a very clean model with no glue stains.

[David Walker]

I use Tenax or Ambroid Pro-Weld. I apply with a very fine brush just touching to the seam, rather than applying to surfaces.

Tamiya Extra Thin cement is also very good for this.

[Robert K]

Sometimes I drill a little hole and apply thin glue with a Touch 'n Flow applicator.

For instance when glueing intake splitterplates on an F-4 or F/A-18.

Another example: Tamiya 1/48 F-16.

On the top rearend fuselage, there is a lip that supports the front fuselage.

By drilling little holes in the corner where the two pieces meet, I could get glue where I wanted.

Exactly at the joint where the two pieces join. Hold the two pieces together and apply glue through the hole.

No glue on the outside and it will flow through the seem.

Hope to have helped.

Rob.

[Julien (UK)]

I have been using plain old revell contacta for years now, just apply to one surface and stick. I think the stuff is great I have never had splitting, ghost seams or clean up problems. I think it is hot enough and not too hot like tenax etc.

Julien

[MattC]

Revell Contacta for me too, although the applicator needles drive me round the bend. Either that or Humbrol Liquid Poly, just applied to one side, then held with bands, tape, clamps etc. Never really had a problem with it.

Sometimes use liquid poly to seal a seam by brushing onto the surface of the closed joint to "weld" the seam.

I tend to use thin CA for small parts like antenna, pitots etc, because if they do get caught by my clumsy fingers, the parts break off clean instead of snapping.

In all honesty though, I think if you spend enough time on dry fitting and sanding, it doesn't matter much :(

[chuck540z3]

Tamiya glue in the bottle with the applicator brush.

One thing I've been doing lately is using extra glue so that it DOES ooze out, depending on the seam and application. Since I putty just about everything anyway, why not skip the putty step and use glue instead? Only downside is that drying time is usually 48 hours before the glue is hard enough to sand.

[G_Marcat_Italy]

A few days ago I found a dealer in Europe that sold me the AMBROID Pro-weld and now I'm happy to have tested this very powerful glue.

It has changed the way, used by me until today, of to use the glue on the my kits: this adhesive is really fast in the his action and the results reached are promising.

[vanilla gorilla]

Tamiya Extra Thin cement is also very good for this.

I bought a bottle of this stuff. Seemed good enough, but when using it on a Hase' A-4, it had problems keeping the seams together. Some parts would split open on thier own at times. Is there a step or prep trick I missed? VG

[David Walker]

The one thing I found with the Tamiya is that as the brush provided is so small you really need to load it up to get a decent amount of glue to the seam. Since I started doing that I haven't had any problems.