Jump to content

F-15E "Southern Outlaw" 336thFS, 4FW, Tamiya 1/32


Recommended Posts

Here's a quick update... the E now features some paint-chipped leading edges, I have tried to keep the efect fairly subtle.

Very convincing Marcel :cheers:

Subtlety is the key. What you have achieved is very realistic. I admire your restraint. It would be easy to get over-zealous with such a successful technique. Well done. :worship:

I'm Eagley :thumbsup: eagerly awaiting further updates.

:cheers:

Link to post
Share on other sites
Very convincing Marcel :D

Subtlety is the key. What you have achieved is very realistic. I admire your restraint. It would be easy to get over-zealous with such a successful technique. Well done. :)

I'm Eagley :explode: eagerly awaiting further updates.

:cheers:

:rofl:

Thx Guy!

I ended up using a number of different techniques: 1. Just sanding the grey away to reveal the yellow and Al underneath (worked ok, but doesn't lend itself to getting that paint peeling off look). 2. Using your recommendatin and applying some bits of liquid mask here and there before applying the grey, then tearing off the liquid mask (worked well). 3. Very lightly sanding over the target area with 400 grade sandpaper about 20 minutes after the applying the topcoat (this worked the best). 4. On section where I had overdone the effect, I masked off part of the already revealed yellow using a torn piece of masking tape, using the torn edge as the masking edge (this worked really well also).

Marcel

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Marcel,

You're doing a marvellous job with this Strike Eagle. I am in the throws of finishing the same kit but as the 'Fighting Eagles' of the 334th FS (OOB). I am doing the a/c fresh from the paint shop with Tamiya rattle cans as per the instructions so the grey is darker than yours. The only problem I have encountered and I think it is because of the extreme heat and humidity in Melbourne, Australia at the moment is that the decals are not staying down and are lifting and curling upon themselves after application on the model after drying. I have had to use a decal setting agent on most. Hopefully, I won't have too many more problems with them.

Regards

Andrew

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thx guys!!

Hi Marcel,

You're doing a marvellous job with this Strike Eagle. I am in the throws of finishing the same kit but as the 'Fighting Eagles' of the 334th FS (OOB). I am doing the a/c fresh from the paint shop with Tamiya rattle cans as per the instructions so the grey is darker than yours. The only problem I have encountered and I think it is because of the extreme heat and humidity in Melbourne, Australia at the moment is that the decals are not staying down and are lifting and curling upon themselves after application on the model after drying. I have had to use a decal setting agent on most. Hopefully, I won't have too many more problems with them.

Regards

Andrew

Andrew, a pretty bulletproof decals application method I use these days is to coat the aircraft with Future floor wax seconds before you lay down the decal. Just hand-brush on to the application area. The technique has never failed me and I've done some pretty old, nasty decals this way.

I've actually run into problems of my own, I've discovered some seam issues inside the intake that need to be fixed, that will set the project back a little bit.

Marcel

Link to post
Share on other sites

haha- yeah- it's supposed to be windy and 79 tomorrow. It's sad that I am locked away in an office all day long. Can't wait for it to start greening up around here.

That tip with the Future is spot-on, guaranteed to work.

Looks great, Marcel! Hope the intake seams disappear for ya.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Thx guys!!

Andrew, a pretty bulletproof decals application method I use these days is to coat the aircraft with Future floor wax seconds before you lay down the decal. Just hand-brush on to the application area. The technique has never failed me and I've done some pretty old, nasty decals this way.

I've actually run into problems of my own, I've discovered some seam issues inside the intake that need to be fixed, that will set the project back a little bit.

Marcel

Cheers Marcel,

I've got the equivalent stuff over here in OZ so I'll give it a go as it can't hurt.

Cheers :thumbsup: Andrew

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Progress on this kit seems to be very slow, and lately, I haven't had all that much time to work on the kit. Nonetheless, here is an update. Please critique and point out any mistakes.

DSCN8410.jpg

... notice how the HUD changes appearance depending on the light direction...

DSCN8407.jpg

I tried to replicate the heated metal appearance of the pitot by brush-painting the tip with Humbrol Steel. I used the Eduard slime lights, I thought they would be a pain to apply, but things turned out ok.

DSCN8413-1.jpg

DSCN8415.jpg

DSCN8417.jpg

Hobbydecal dry transfers were used for much of the stencil data, they generally went on very nicely, although in two instances I lifted the underlying paint during application.

DSCN8411.jpg

DSCN8416.jpg

I extended the paint chipping all the way to the lower intake leading edge (after a lot of reference checking), although I kept things very subtle.

DSCN8406.jpg

Next up are the wheel wells and the undercarriage. I don't really enjoy that part of the build, which is why I have pushed that off until now.

Marcel

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good. One small critique. You've got the GPS dot too far back. It should be in the middle of the panel immediately forward of where you've got it, towards the center of the airbrake, not the back. Other than that, looking good!

Aaron

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cracking update Marcel :monkeydance:

The paint chipping looks so good. You've obviously spent a great deal of time studying reference pictures and it shows. The underside weathering also looks very convincing with more dirt and grime showing aft of the wheel bays. Good stuff.

The irridescent effect on the HUD is smart. It's a kick watching it change colour as you move around the model is n't it? I never get tired of that effect. ^_^

I like the difference in tones along the leading edge of the wing. One thing that you could do to improve the look still further is to slightly alter the red leading edge lights a little. Tamiya have them as large glass reflectors but the Mudhen versions are more of a rectangular shape. If you want to redo them simply stick a small rectangle of masking tape over the red and re-spray the grey over the top. It would only take a minute and would make your build ever more realistic looking. Just a thought......... :D

I'm already looking forward to the next update. :salute:

:cheers:

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thx for the encouragement, guys!

Ken, thx again for your earlier advice on the paint chipping. Gerald, always good to hear back from the master... now that I have looked more closely at the red lights, I see what you mean, that will be an easy fix... consider it done. Aaron, thx for the heads-up. I'm sitting here scratching my head as to how I managed to misplace that dome, since I spent quite some time looking at where exactly it is meant to go :cheers: Not sure I will fix it, that would require a lot of effort and I must say I'm getting worn out by this project, I've been on it for a full year now.

Marcel

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...