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Spitfire Colors?????


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I am working on a Tamiya Spitfire Mk.I and need some help. Could anyone tell me what colors are used on the top of the aircraft. The kit wants you to mix 1 part XF-52 and 1 part XF-64 in tamiya colors. And the other color needs to be mixed out of 1 part XF-58 and 5 parts XF-62. I would rather use Model Master paint. Could anyone tell me what the paints would be or maby an FS number?

Thanks for all your Help!!!

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I am working on a Tamiya Spitfire Mk.I and need some help. Could anyone tell me what colors are used on the top of the aircraft. The kit wants you to mix 1 part XF-52 and 1 part XF-64 in tamiya colors. And the other color needs to be mixed out of 1 part XF-58 and 5 parts XF-62. I would rather use Model Master paint. Could anyone tell me what the paints would be or maby an FS number?

Thanks for all your Help!!!

The first combo is Dark Earth (MM 2054) and the second Dark Green (MM 2060).

These are MM enamel, I don't have MM acrylic #'s ...

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Thank you all!!! This will make my life 100% better. I really didnt want to mix paints. Off to the hooby shop tomorrow!!!!

Thanks!!!!

I recently built the same model. To my eye the colors provided off the shelf are too dark (the colors in the tamiya instructions are crazy dark), especially after one applies the gloss coat. Sure the flat coat lightens it up a tiny bit at the end, but after a lot of experimentation based on my reference photos as well as taking into account extra darkening via weathering, I chose to go with Model Master US SEA Medium Green Acryl for the green and a 50-50 mix of MM SEA Tan Acryl with Vallejo Dark Earth for the brown.

I was very pleased with the results. I know you dont wanna mix, but do take into account that colors will be darker than you want after the gloss coat. I would compensate for this with a few drops of light tan in your earth brown and a few drops of light green in your dark green. Additionally, lighter colors help with the so called "scale effect".

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Alternatively, buy Xtracolour, which come in the correct shades but in gloss ready for the transfers.

I think you have encountered the problem of scale colour, in that the correct shade always looks darker then applied directly to a small scale model. Much heat and little light can be expended on this subject.

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