Stefan buysse Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Hi, Please excuse me for the current lack of photos: I have a camera/computer problem that I hope to resolve shortly. Since January 1st, I have been doing at least one thing per day on this kit and I intend to keep this up until it's built. I have previously built a 1/72 Fujimi F-14A and a 1/48 Hasegawa F-14A. I really like the 1/72 Hasegawa kit so far. I drilled out the flashed-over holes for the bombracks in the Phoenix pallets. Then, I thought "that was pretty amazing that Hasegawa provided these locations back in 1988...". I checked an old F-14A in the stash and the original Phoenix pallets didn't have these locations. The Phoenix pallets are on general sprues, so Hasegawa made these subtle changes to their 1/72 F-14 moulds in the Bombcat era. Test-fitting of the nosecone to parts B10 and B12 always shows the nosecone slightly too far to port. I think this can be resolved by getting rid of the locator tabs. I believe that the droptanks are too far outboard on the 1/72 kit. I'm not going to attempt to correct that on this one. I'm going to use FTD decals, a staggered 2x GBU-10 load-out and Aires GRU-7A's. The GBU-10's are from Hasegawa Weapons Set VI and I'll try to replicate the ablative coating with Mr Surfacer. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 Hi, Thanks to the good advice of ARC members who saw my question in "research corner" I can upload my photographs onto my PC again. Now I'm going to try posting pictures from Photobucket. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted January 17, 2009 Author Share Posted January 17, 2009 Hi, Here are some lessons learnt from this build so far. *The next time that I'll use the kit exhausts, I'll remove the locater pins and holes from parts G5 and G6. These are too visible for my taste and I don't really need them to allign G5 and G6. *Like in 1/48, it is easy to remove to much from the Aires seats when you cut them from the casting block. They ended up sitting too low. I'll add a Miliput base below the seat. Luckily I have another Hasegawa Tomcat. With the second tub and the plastic seats, I'll judge how much Miliput is needed to get the seats to equal positions. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike J. Idacavage Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Stefan: Thanks for posting the details of your Tomcat build! :lol: I plan on starting a 1/72 Hasegawa F-14D for this GB in a few weeks after I clear some other stuff off my workbench. It will be my first Tomcat build, so comments like the removal of the locater pins for the kit exhausts is really helpful. I'll definitely be following your build! Have fun modeling! Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 Thanks, Mike. Some other hints: *There are 6 minor ejector pin stubs on the bottom of part D18 (the cockpit tub). It is best to remove 4 most forward ones, these are in the location where you glue the top of the nose gear bay (partD22). These stubs are so small one might think it unneccesary to remove them. Dryfitting revealed that it is best to remove them. *Something about antennas. On top of the fuselage (part A11), there is a small antenna that needs to be removed on B and D model Tomcats. I have seen it on all pictures of A models, never on B's and D's. It is located between the bases where the instructions will have you glue antenna's E26 and E-28 (look at step 20 in the instructions). The antenna that needs to be removed is 5mm forward of the location for antenna E28. Antennas are not my forte, so if any expert wants to chime in and confirm this, I'd appreciate it. The stub antenna has been removed on mine anyway. *Another antenna thing that you probably noticed in the pinned Tomcat 101 guide. Part E26 needs to be replaced by something taller on late Tomcats. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 Hi, Here's a tiny thing I did. Hasegawa provided a fine base for the throttle, but no throttle. I'm not the greatest scratchbuilder, I just cut pieces off part E5 (airbrake actuator) and glued that into a hole that I had drilled into the throttle base. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 Hi, I have been test-fitting things in the cockpit area. The round radar screen on part J11 has to be replaced by a square PTID screen. I was amazed how thick the one I made from plasticard was. I'm going to cut a square piece from a PE sheet. Luckily, I dabble in shipmodelling, so I had a piece of surplus PE. While I was looking at which size my PTID screen should be, I started to wonder if I should attach J11 to D18 first and then see how well A1 fits over that once the cockpit (B12 and B10) is closed up. Or should I attach J11 to A1 and then see how well that fits onto the cockpit. J11 and A1 don't seem to get along very well yet. Figuring out the relation between J11, D18, B10, B12 and A1 is something I must do before I go on with the cockpit. The same will have to be done for the front instrument panel (J12) and its cover (J13). While I was testfitting, I discovered that the hole in D22 where the nose gear's main strut should go was flashed over! I quickly solved that with a drill. A look in the stash revealed that my recent F-14D has the same slight problem and that my ancient F-14A doesn't. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewS Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 Hi Stefan, Thanks for the information about the cockpit assembly and considerations for different versions. It would be great to see some photos when you get the panels together. Your suggestion about construction of the F110 nozzles is also appreciated. I'll be following your build closely and trying to learn from your experience. Regds, Andrew. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 Thanks for the encouragement, Andrew. I'll certainly add some photos when there is something to show. The front IP and its cover seem to fit together and into the cockpit. I do wonder if the control stick will still go in easily (or at all) once the IP is in place. Another ting to test-fit and another tiny part that'll be loose from the sprue. I'll just have to finish the cockpit this week-end. :o Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted January 28, 2009 Author Share Posted January 28, 2009 Hi, Some progress and decisions have been made. *Testfitting revealed that the hole in which the pilot's control stick (part D3) is to be glued is best enlarged a bit. Maybe the pin at the bottom of D3 was moulded a bit fat. Anyway, I was glad that I discovered this before I had seat and IP in place and would have been trying to stick D3 in between with tweezers. *I found a useful part for the WSO's hand controller. It's director (part K19) from a 1/700 Dragon Essex-class carrier. On none of my Dragon Essexes is this shown as a "part not to be used", but I have a USS Antietam that I intend to build as a training carrier. I'm leaving all the 40mm Bofors and the directors off that one. In the picture you can see a painted and a not painted-handcontroller installed. *As you can see, I used the kit decals instead of the PE for the consoles. Next time, I will use the PE. I'm also going to use the Aires seats on an F-14 with the PE on the consoles. On this kit, I'm going to use the kit seats. I'm going to see in which order the cockpit goes together best (between IP's, D3, the seats and the fuselage halves) and I can do without the hassle of adjusting the heigth the Aires seat and their blob of milliput on this one. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 Hi, *I've attached the air intakes (parts A10 end A12). They went in pretty easily. However, on the inside of the intakes are the the intake ramps (E1 and E2). The stubs on E2 which should attach it to A10 (or A12) are much too short. E2 could not be fitted into the cut-outs in A10 and A12 satisfactorily. I decided to ommit these parts and E12. I just lowered the ramps E1 a bit more. Next time, I'll attach some stretched sprue to the back of E2 so that it can drop into its place. By the way, I attached E1 to A10 (and 12) with glue on only one side. This was a precaution in case A10 and A12 would distort a bit during their installation. *I have also attached the vertical tails J9 and J10. Testfitting showed some gaps between these parts and the fuselage. There are some faint seam lines on the bottom of J9 and J10. I guess it's natural to be afraid to remove to much from the tails, but I found that by removing these seam lines the gaps became significantly smaller. Especially on J9 this was succesful. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Platypus Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 You're making progress on your build faster than I do. I have to take some pictures of where I am on my VF-154 plane. Looking forward to see the next steps. :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 (edited) Thanks, Platypus. The "at least one thing per day"-rule that I imposed on myself certainly keeps the build going. I'm quite pleased with my GPS dome. I drilled a hole and found a blob of plastic in another kit that I could glue into that. I have also made some progress on deciding the assembly sequence of the cockpit. *I have glued D3 (control stick) into D18 (cockpit tub). The ejection seat was in place, but not glued down during this process. *The rear IP (J11) and coaming (A1) do fit together. I figure it is not easy to get these together correctly if you follow the instructions. After a lot of fiddling I started to wonder if I should shave something off J11 and then it suddenly snapped into place. I'm convinced that the J11-A1 assembly can be added after B10 and B12 are glued together. Provide they have been correctly glued together. *I do not think that the front IP (J12) and coaming (J13) can succesfully be added to a closed B10-B12 if they have been glued together beforehand. I found that a properly assembled cockpit tub (D18) and nosegear bay (D22) can consistently be dryfitted into B10 and be in such a position that B12 can be added without a problem. So, I'll glue the cockpit tub/nosegear bay into B10. Then, add J12 and J13 with glue on them but still flexible to get both into a correct position. Then, close the front fuselage by adding B12. Then, add J11 and A1. I believe that the seats and C1 can be added afterwards. Cheers, Stefan. Edited February 3, 2009 by Stefan buysse Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike J. Idacavage Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 Hi Stefan! I have been following your build closely, and it is looking great! I have a question for you about your build. While I am now painting my cockpit, I started to look at some other sub assemblies so I can keep some progress while working on the cockpit. Have you added parts D20 and D21 yet to the underside piece B11? I have tried to dry fit these parts, but it looks like I will have a gap in the main landing gear bay sides no matter how I position these parts. If you have gotten this far, do you also get a gap in the sides of the wall of the bay? The instructions are not the most clear in this area, so I may be inserting the parts incorrectly. I see where the long flat piece will but up against the side, but the other end does not fit anywhere near flush to the rest of the bay. Thanks for any suggestions! Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted February 8, 2009 Author Share Posted February 8, 2009 (edited) Hi, Mike. Yes, I also have gaps there: barely noticeable on the port side, almost half a mm on the starboard side. I noticed that possibility during test-fitting, but I focused on getting a sturdy construction. I was not going to glue D20 and D21 higher (or lower depending on how you look) to avoid this gap and then have trouble during the installation of A10 and A12. I'll probably close the gaps with some putty, but once the gear doors and weapons pylons are on the model this area is not that visible. I'll take some photographs of the gaps. This is the worst gap. Seeing it on the picture, it is negligable by my standards. Looking at the model again, do you mean the gap inside the wheel bay between D20-D21 and A11? Oh yes, I have that one too. I will just ignore that one. BTW Has anyone noticed that, when the forward Phoenix pallets are in place, the forward tips of the Sparrow recesses are visible? I don't think that is the case in reality. I'm thinking of filling these recesses with putty, or should I attach the forward Phoenix pallets differently? Cheers, Stefan. Edited February 8, 2009 by Stefan buysse Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike J. Idacavage Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Hi Stefan! Your explanation and photo is perfect! That is exactly what I am experienceing with my Tomcat. That gap you have is the same one that I am experiencing. Now that I know that this is not due to my misunderstanding the directions, I'll follow in your footsteps and also glue parts D20-21 and leave the small gap. I am a bit surprized that no one mentioned this little problem in the many Hasegawa F-14 Tomcat reviews that I have read! Your work on the Tomcat is really looking nice. Your work is definitely inspiring me! Thanks! :D Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Platypus Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 BTW Has anyone noticed that, when the forward Phoenix pallets are in place, the forward tips of the Sparrow recesses are visible? I don't think that is the case in reality. I'm thinking of filling these recesses with putty, or should I attach the forward Phoenix pallets differently? Hello Stefan, No the Sparrow wells shouldn't be visible once the Phoenix pallets are in place. I actually place them 0.5mm forward than the holes made by Hasegawa. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 Mike, thank you for the kind words. Platypus, thanks for the explanation. I'm looking at both options and, at the moment, I feel a bit more comfortable with filling the Sparrow recess. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 Hi, It's beginning to look like a Tomcat. I filled the tips of the Sparrow recesses and added the pallets. Right now, they are clamped down. Next time, I may glue them in the same position, without opening up the holes provided by Hasegawa. I find test-fitting very useful on this build. I tried the main landing gear struts (C25-26) and the hole in B11 where they go was a bit too tight. I drilled it out very slightly and the fit was much better. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 Hi, Here you can see why I won't be using the holes next time I attach forward pallets. Somehow the pallets are pointing outwards. You can also see that I have started to "cheat" to make the GBU's paralel in the final result. I have attached the BRU's so that they point forward more than the pallets. I will also attach the GBU's to the BRU's so that they actually point forward. One of the reasons I will start the VF-11 F-14B too during this GB, is that I'm curious to see if I can get pallets attached correctly without using the holes. Another lesson from this build is that I'll paint the soot inside the exhausts before I close them up. I had left G5 and G6 white inside thinking I could add the soot later. It's a black mess in there. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewS Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Hi Stefan, I don't have my kits/instructions or reference to hand, but I think that you might have the Phoenix pallets transposed (right should be left and vice versa), which would explain their refusal to lay straight. If this is the case, I hope it's not too late to swap them over. You're making steady progress nonetheless. Andrew. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gtypecanare Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 It looks like you have the pallets on the wrong side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 Hi, Andrew and gtypecanare. Yes, I think I glued them on the wrong side. They spent 24 hours clamped in that position and the BRU's have been glued on somewhat askew to correct the position. I'm afraid that pulling them off is going to do more harm than good. Watch out for this, folks. Especially treacherous is the fact that these parts are on their sprue that way. If you look at the sprue in a way that the parts numbers are legible, C5 is on the left and C6 is on the right. If you have your model upside down with the nose pointing away from you for attaching the pallets, C5 goes on the right and C6 on the left. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted February 25, 2009 Author Share Posted February 25, 2009 Hi, I've started painting, old Aeromaster paint applied with a brush. The scratchbuilt PTID screen is in there. It's a flat piece of PE metal, painted dark green with black edges. I added a gloss coat to that and white dots along the side. I'm hoping that FTD will do a 1/72 data sheet with PTID screens some day. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
limyc Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 wow u brush painted the whole thing? painting looks good to me... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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