MPi-KM Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 I did a search but really couldn't find an answer.Who make the best panel line scribing tool? I have the Squadron one but I not too impressed.The Bare Metal Foil one looks identical, is it the same tool? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Edgar Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Personally, I think that it's "Horses for courses," so I have several. As well as the two you've mentioned, there are two, by Olfa (the P-800 & P-450), which are ideal for the larger model, especially if you prime your model before painting. They're designed as cutters, and have fairly long blades, so are really only good for straight lines, but they don't tend to wander as you cut. Hasegawa do a "Line Engraver 1," in their Trytool range (ref. no. is TT-10,) and it's phenominally sharp. Trumpeter are now supplying one, but I haven't had chance to try it yet. At £3, I shan't worry too much if it doesn't last long, though. Edgar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
illithid00 Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 I have an old dental tool that works GREAT for scribing. I'll try to get a picture up later. It's sharp and looks kind of like a curved pin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
madmanrick Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 (edited) I have an old dental tool that works GREAT for scribing. I'll try to get a picture up later. It's sharp and looks kind of like a curved pin. Here in New York City, the Duane Reade drugstore chain (perhaps the other major chains do as well?) carries a line of dental accessories that contains a dental pick and a lighted mirror, made by Gum. They are reasonably priced (under $6) and the pick is a cheaper version (plastic handle vs. metal) of the more expensive version that your dentist uses. The beauty is that if the tip gets dull, one could simply sharpen it and gain even more use out of it. HTH, Rick P.S. the lighted mirror is basically useless, as it is a cheapo version and the mirror part is fairly cloudly. But the pick is nice! Edited February 9, 2009 by madmanrick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Filak Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 CVS Pharmacy also sells the two-sided dental pick with LED lights on both ends. Not sure if they're sharp enough for scribing, but the lights could come in pretty handy, I suppose. As for me, I've been using a needle in a pin vise for years. I've found that it provides better control than the larger scribers, and is much easier to use with a scribing template. That being said, I've heard a lot of good things about the UMM Universal Scriber, and I'd be very interested in picking one of these up at some point. It all comes down to what works best for you, and in some cases, there is more than one tool to do the job. For instance, you might want to scribe long panel lines with a UMM scriber, and then use a needle in a pin vise for more intricate work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ro-Gar Hobbies Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 The tool I use depends on what part of the kit I have to actually scribe. I have several tools for scribing panels and out of all of them I use my home made needle in a pin vise the most. It will all depend on your personal preference and what you finally feel what tool feels comfortable to use. Regards, Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kia Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 CVS Pharmacy also sells the two-sided dental pick with LED lights on both ends. Not sure if they're sharp enough for scribing, but the lights could come in pretty handy, I suppose.As for me, I've been using a needle in a pin vise for years. I've found that it provides better control than the larger scribers, and is much easier to use with a scribing template. That being said, I've heard a lot of good things about the UMM Universal Scriber, and I'd be very interested in picking one of these up at some point. It all comes down to what works best for you, and in some cases, there is more than one tool to do the job. For instance, you might want to scribe long panel lines with a UMM scriber, and then use a needle in a pin vise for more intricate work. I;ve bin using the tamiya sriber for straight lines and i've just today baught a bare metal scriber i'll let u know what it's like. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 <snip> That being said, I've heard a lot of good things about the UMM Universal Scriber, and I'd be very interested in picking one of these up at some point. It all comes down to what works best for you, and in some cases, there is more than one tool to do the job. For instance, you might want to scribe long panel lines with a UMM scriber, and then use a needle in a pin vise for more intricate work. I've seen the UMM Universal Scriber in use (John Vojtech is a member of our local IPMS chapter). I, too am planning on getting one soon, even though I have a home-made scriber that is very similar. The UMM has features I didn't include. Scribing curves is a bear. I've discovered that what is called a "ball-pointed" sewing machine needle is excellent for this. They are quite sharp, but the point shape doesn't dig into the plastic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TXCajun Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 I think the poster who noted that "best" depends on the part you are scribing hit the nail on the head. I have several scribing tools (Bare Metal Foil scriber, Mission Models scribing tools needle-in-a-pinvise, dental pick,etc.) and find that I use different ones for different jobs. Case in point: I was building a Czechmodel Yak-15 (sucker for punishment here) and started using my (at that time) brand new Mission Models scriber (very sharp hardened steel). Well, the kit plastic parts were of varying hardness and when I encountered soft plastic, the tool dug in like a knife in butter. I even broke one of the scribing tips when it dug in so far it broke! So, I put away the Mission Models tool and pulled out the ole needle-in-a-pinvise. The job went ok after that. I'm still struggling with circles, so I bought a scribing template with circles, ovals, etc. I use the pin vise on this too. However, if I needed to do straight lines on hard plastic (e.g. Monogram 1970's kits) I would probably pull out the Mission Models tool. As far as the Bare Metal Tools scriber, I can say that it looks like a dental tool and either the tip broke during manufacturing or it has a flat-ish tip and doesn't scribe well. I don't use it much. Also, I have a dental pick similar to the one pictured. Since these things are designed to be in your mouth, they aren't all that sharp. So, you'd have to sharpen the tip to get it small enough to engrave the plastic. I actually use mine more to make tiny adjustments to small parts I'm glueing with thick CA. Hope this helps. Just dive in there man and have some fun with it! Stew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fishwelding Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Clearly a matter of personal preference. I use an old "X-acto" or hobby knife blade (No. 11) that usually is missing the very tip. To cut the line, I pull the remaining tip along the plastic with the cutting edge of the blade facing away from the direction of travel. It takes a little more practice to control, but I find it cuts very nice lines. I also use a needle in a pin-vice, with templates, to do access panels and the like. I, too, invested in squadron and bare metal scribers. They work, but the resulting line seems to me needlessly wide. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phantom ordie Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Go to UMM-USA.com and order thier scribeing tool,it is by far the easiest and most versatle scribing tool available. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
illithid00 Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Here in New York City, the Duane Reade drugstore chain (perhaps the other major chains do as well?) carries a line of dental accessories that contains a dental pick and a lighted mirror, made by Gum. They are reasonably priced (under $6) and the pick is a cheaper version (plastic handle vs. metal) of the more expensive version that your dentist uses. The beauty is that if the tip gets dull, one could simply sharpen it and gain even more use out of it. HTH,Rick P.S. the lighted mirror is basically useless, as it is a cheapo version and the mirror part is fairly cloudly. But the pick is nice! Mine looks almost exactly like that. Different handle, but the tool head looks exactly the same. I've never found a better tool for the job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Huey Gunner Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 And thens there Cyrus Tan. Who can make most of us look like a bunch of amatuers useing a dull deer antler. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Filak Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 And thens there Cyrus Tan. Who can make most of us look like a bunch of amatuers useing a dull deer antler. ;) :lol: Ain't that the truth! We were talking to Cyrus in Atlanta, and I told him that if I knew he was entering anything at the next Nats, I was just going to leave my stuff home. Cyrus does some amazing stuff (in particular, his finishes are virtually flawless), and the best thing about it is that he's a super guy - very humble about what he does, and eager to share what he knows about technique. I was amazed to find out that he actually drills out individual rivets...there's someone with a whole lot more patience than I have. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Huey Gunner Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 ;) :lol: Ain't that the truth! We were talking to Cyrus in Atlanta, and I told him that if I knew he was entering anything at the next Nats, I was just going to leave my stuff home. Cyrus does some amazing stuff (in particular, his finishes are virtually flawless), and the best thing about it is that he's a super guy - very humble about what he does, and eager to share what he knows about technique. I was amazed to find out that he actually drills out individual rivets...there's someone with a whole lot more patience than I have. He did a scribing seminar at the Anaheim Nats. I wish he would put it on DVD. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MPi-KM Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 Well thanks.I was mostly going to use it on Monogram models.How do you scribe curves and corners? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
juan Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I have tried many scribers... but the best is still... "Needle chucked in a pin vise"... Cheap and works wonder! awesome!!! You'll need dymo tapes as well... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G_Marcat_Italy Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I did a search but really couldn't find an answer.Who make the best panel line scribing tool? I have the Squadron one but I not too impressed.The Bare Metal Foil one looks identical, is it the same tool? Taken from a my old post on the same argument this is a partial selection of the my tools for scribing: The my preferred? Sincerely no one of them. Every tool have pro and cons. For a long straight line I prefer the TAMIYA, it's the only to do a perfect V shaped groove. For the curves I prefer the FLEX I FILE (the third from the top). With the second tool (an Amati's handle with a sewing machine nail) I was able to rescribe MANUALLY (without other tools or guides) an entire F-105 from Monogram, only passing every raised line with repeated soft passes. The Hasegawa tools (first and last in the row) are ok for the straight lines but I broke the tip of one of them attempting to make a curve since that the tip of these two scribers is like the tip of a common cutter's blade, so it's easy to broke if improperly used. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
I.Illes Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Pins and razorsaw blades. The latter makes thin straight lines without raised edges. István Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tbell Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 For straight lines I prefer a good old No. 11 X-axto blade with a wee bit (~0.5mm) broken off the tip. Regardless of what you use to scribe, make sure you brush a small amount of lacquer thinner in the freshly scribed line and wait for it to dry before sanding it to remove the ridges that form on either side. The lacquer thinner makes it much easier to clean the sanding swarf out of the line afterwards. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fishwelding Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) Well thanks.I was mostly going to use it on Monogram models.How do you scribe curves and corners? A template set and a needle chucked in a pin-vise. My template set is from Verlinden, but there are others equally as good or better. Use light pressure, and many passes. As for Cyrus, we must add that clearly, he uses The Force. Edited February 11, 2009 by Fishwelding Quote Link to post Share on other sites
doose Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Dymo tape is an absolute must for curves, it works very well. A light scribing pass for the first run is essential, if you make a mistake, a lot less sanding and filling is necessary. As for the tool, I agree, it depends on what kind of scribing you are doing. A needle in a pin vise seems to work best on most situations but I have all the hasegawas, the tamiyas etc.... just in case. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blunce Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Another sewing needle in pin vise user here. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Britaholic Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Bare metal foil scriber here, with Dymo tape, Lion Roar scribing templates and for curves the Airwaves radius scribing templates. Cheers Den Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CraigSargent Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 (edited) Taken from a my old post on the same argument this is a partial selection of the my tools for scribing: The Hasegawa tools (first and last in the row) are ok for the straight lines but I broke the tip of one of them attempting to make a curve since that the tip of these two scribers is like the tip of a common cutter's blade, so it's easy to broke if improperly used. The long straight one with the small black rubber sleeve, fourth from the top, is also a Hasegawa product and I have just started using one after using a pin and pin vise for a long time and I'm sold. Tool of choice for me now. Edited December 14, 2009 by CraigSargent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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