g0_command0 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 What brands of oil paint do you guys recommend for washes? Also will turpanoid do damage to acrylic paint? even if i have a acrylic gloss coat (polly scale) over it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Filak Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I use Winsor & Newton oils for all of my washes. Can't say what Turpenoid will do to PollyScale gloss, as I use Future for glosscoats, and that stuff is bulletproof after 48 hours. In fact, I never use Turpenoid...I use regular turpentine. IMO, Turpenoid is a much more pungent smell, and turpentine just seems to work better anyway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
g0_command0 Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 Are there any colors you recommend? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thegoodsgt Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 The color you use depends on the color of the aircraft. Most guys use straight black, but a better choice is often a dark grey or raw umber. It all depends on how much contrast you want between the aircraft's color and the panel lines. I would recommend saving the black for the deepest shadows, such as the lines that represent flaps, ailerons, rudders, etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScottD Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 In addition to Steve's suggestions, I got some of the MiG oil paints that work really well too... As for my favorite thinner for oils, go get some odorless paint thinner from Home Depot or an arts store, I find its the best stuff out there to do washes and doesn't attack the paint either. Color suggestions: Black Burnt Umber Raw Umber Panyes Grey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk10 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 As Steve noted, Windser & Newton oils a probably the best oil paints(Their brushes ain't too shabby either). I first used them a bunch of years ago when I was into figures (Hey, if it's good enough for Shep Paine, it's good enough for me). Another good choice would be Grumbacher oils - I started using them when the availability of W & N paints in my area became a problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shark 64 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 What brands of oil paint do you guys recommend for washes? Also will turpanoid do damage to acrylic paint? even if i have a acrylic gloss coat (polly scale) over it? Hi I use the same stuff as Steve. I wont do any washes directly on the paint....you never know. I have used Home Depot stuff. I kind like it because it give you a flater finish. I stay away from black because it is to strong. Raw umber and Payne's grey has been my choices for a while. it just works for me. This is only my 2 cents. I would definetly experiment on scrap model first. What works for one doesnt always work for the other. Good luck. Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
g0_command0 Posted February 13, 2009 Author Share Posted February 13, 2009 I was reading over some other threads in the forum, and it now has me confused on what to use for the thinner....turpenoid?turpentine?mineral spirit? whit spirit? odorless paint thinner? Seems everything can eat acrylic clear coats...so now im nervous Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volzj Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 I was reading over some other threads in the forum, and it now has me confused on what to use for the thinner....turpenoid?turpentine?mineral spirit? whit spirit? odorless paint thinner? Seems everything can eat acrylic clear coats...so now im nervous I have never had Mineral Spirits eat through a properly cured (48 hrs.) coat of Future. I use the standard stuff right off the Home Depot shelf. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JasonB Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Windsor & Newton oils with Grumbacher Odorless Grumbacher odorless is super mild, I have literally applied it over Tamiya acrylic 10-15 minutes after applying the Tamiya paint, and it didn't lift it. Its so mild, its not even that good at cleaning brushes with anything in them other than fresh oil paint. You should probably use a clear coat. Not only will it help prevent any possible eating through of the base coat, but it will also keep the base coat from getting stained by the wash, and it makes sure that the wash flows into the recesses and doesn't puddle on the surface. Back in the days of my armor modeling, I would adjust and tint the base coat as needed by using washes (now referred to as a filter!) and this was what I used. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
g0_command0 Posted February 13, 2009 Author Share Posted February 13, 2009 I will be using Polly Scale Gloss and Flat coats to be exact. thanks for the tips so far, i guess i just have to spray and let it dry. Should I decal first or wash thenn decal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volzj Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 I will be using Polly Scale Gloss and Flat coats to be exact. thanks for the tips so far, i guess i just have to spray and let it dry. Should I decal first or wash thenn decal. I go: paint gloss decal gloss wash final coat (flat, satin, gloss) The gloss coat after decaling helps seal the decals against the weathering. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScottD Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 I was reading over some other threads in the forum, and it now has me confused on what to use for the thinner....turpenoid?turpentine?mineral spirit? whit spirit? odorless paint thinner? Seems everything can eat acrylic clear coats...so now im nervous I have zero issues with Tamiya/Gunze paint and letting it dry an hour or two before applying a wash...future takes a bit longer Thinner info: Turpenoid/Odorless Turpenoid-can be used for washes, but I never really had much luck with it Turpentine: Never used it, I think its too "hot" (too much bite, will eat paint) for use as a wash Mineral Spirits/White Spirit (UK Name for Minieral Spirits)/Odorless Paint Thinner (less smelly and not as much "bite" as Mineral Spirits): Is what I use to make washes with, I've had the best luck with it out of all that are listed. Lacquer Thinner: TOTALLY inapproprate for washes. Good for thinning every single hobby paint out there for airbrushing though, esp the Gunze and Tamiya Brands. Had issues with Home Depot Lacquer thinner damaging bare plastic if applied directly. Good for cleaing out airbrushes also. Lighter Fluid: Heard people using this for making washes up with...never tried it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EagleDriver Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 Fellow modellers, I 've just got me a bottle of Winsor & Newton "Sansodor" (low odour solvent). Text on the bottle: "Dilutes oil and alkyd colours.Cleans brushes.Lower odour, lower flammability and evaporates more slowly than white (mineral) spirit.Low aromatic hydrocarbon solvent" Is there someone who uses this ?? Regards, Luc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Filak Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 I have never had Mineral Spirits eat through a properly cured (48 hrs.) coat of Future.I use the standard stuff right off the Home Depot shelf. Me either, Joe. Generally, I use turpentine for my washes, but on the rare occasions that I've used mineral spirits for washes, the Future undercoat was completely unaffected. As you've already mentioned, the important thing to remember is to let Future cure for at least 48 hours prior to application of any solvents...this will allow it to fully cure/harden, and render it impervious to solvents. Lacquer thinner might still find its way through, but you should have no problem whatsoever with turpentine or mineral spirits. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 I don't know who posted this photo orginally, but it' worked well for me: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MESHER Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 If I was to buy the above products what is the process for the wash? How do you know when it is thinned enough to apply? How long do you wait to whipe it off? Do you apply with small brush/large brush all over? Do you use a paper towel dipped in thinner to whipe off or q-tips? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Huey Gunner Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 (edited) If I was to buy the above products what is the process for the wash? How do you know when it is thinned enough to apply? How long do you wait to whipe it off? Do you apply with small brush/large brush all over? Do you use a paper towel dipped in thinner to whipe off or q-tips? About the consistancy of strong coffee.About 12 hours. You want it dry but not cured. On aircraft,I just apply to where I want it. On armor. I tend to spread out more. I mostly always use Q-tips. Most of the time you can get away with dry Q-tips. At times I will cut a 2" square piece of T-shirt type material (100% cotton) and use that. Rarely do I moisten with thinners. PS- ALWAYS over fully cured Future. PSS- Sorry about all the "custom" graphics. I'm home sick wth my sick 7 year old and bored. Guess I'll go work on my G.55 Edited March 4, 2009 by Huey Gunner Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volzj Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 As Paul mentioned above in his very colorful reply, I find you almost never need thinner on the rag to remove artist's oils. They are very slow to dry, and can be removed easily from a good gloss coat with a dry material. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MESHER Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Thank you for the info. I live in Canada and really wanted to get my hands on some Promodeler Washes but I can only fine them available on line to order in the U.S. at Sprue Brothers and I don't really want to order from outside of Canada. So I guess I will try the oil wash and pick up some Winsor & Newton oil paints and thinner from Michael's Crafts and give that a try. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MESHER Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Sorry one more question. Okay, purchased some W&N oil paints, I did the burnt/raw umber and paynes gray, did not pick up black as someone advised it is way to strong and dark. So I have a test wing painted and futured and has been drying for over 2 days. I also pick up some Sansador to thin the paint and make my wash. I have appliled a wash of Paynes Gray. Now I just wanted to double check, I have to leave this wash on for 12 hours before I remove it...is that correct?...seems like a real long time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chuck1945 Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Are you doing stuff like panel lines? If so, there should be no need to wait. Properly thinned it will flow into the panel lines, no need to 'paint' the lines. Immediate wipe up of any excess using a Q-tip or paper towel. You can even wick the excess off with a clean brush. If you applied the wash more like a coat of paint, wipe it off now. Do wipe across the panel lines, not along them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tiger27 Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 I use MIG ready mixed washes. got 3 diffrent ones. Dark, Neutral and rust. They are designed to go on AFV's but work nicely on jets too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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