MESHER Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 What materials/supplies do I require to remove the seam on jet aircraft canopies and what is the process? I realize I would probably have to scrap the seam down with a knife but not sure about sand paper grits and polishes. My local hobby store does not carry Micro Mesh or anything like that. Any advise or assistance would be much appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silver1 Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 You can get sandpaper in grits of 1000-2000 in your hardware store or auto parts store. Tooth paste, not the gel kind, is a fine polishing compound. The canopy will probably have a milky or cloudy finish by now. A dip in Future will clear it up. Practice on a piece of scrap plastic first. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
limyc Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 u need different grits of sandpaper. What I do is to first sand away the seam with some rough sandpaper (200 grit?), then remove the scratches using 400 -> 600 -> 1000. Polish with some cheapo industrial metal polish, dip in future and you're done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silver1 Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 You can get sandpaper in grits of 1000-2000 in your hardware store or auto parts store. Tooth paste, not the gel kind, is a fine polishing compound. The canopy will probably have a milky or cloudy finish by now. A dip in Future will clear it up. Practice on a piece of scrap plastic first. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom G Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 You could also try this polish kit from Micro Mark. It works great. I would not scrape with a knife first just in case you remove too much plastic. http://www.micromark.com/MICRO-MESH-FINISHING-KIT,7601.html HTH, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stephen Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 It's what I hate doing most to a kit :lol: Stephen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mlicari Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 That micro-mesh finishing kit is great. I used it for the first time on an F-14 canopy just a few weeks ago. I had always been scared to sand canopies and so just left the seam lines on all my builds. Not any more! :lol: Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
terryt Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 You can use finger nail boards to finish the polish on the canopy seam. There are many grades of the boards from coarse to very fine, they do a great job. You can get them almost anyplace. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
metroman Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 (edited) Micro Mesh highly recommended here. Something I do also is to lay down several layers of masking tape about 1/8" parallel to and away from the seam, this helps prevent stray sanding 'outside the lines'. Start with the 4000 and progess up to 12000, then water clean any fingerprints and crude then dunk in future, works everytime. Used to hate canopies and would do them last, have learned this technique and i do it to begin a kit as it is not a chore anymore. BW Edited February 17, 2009 by metroman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rumbling1 Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 I will use the edge of a new #11 scalpel blade to very carefully scrape the offending ridge off then wet sand with #800, #1000, #2000 then the Micromesh polishing cloths up to #12000 depending on how responsive the clear plastic is to recovering its clarity. A final polishing with Tamiya rubbing/polishing compound, a wipedown with PollyS plastic prep then a bath in Future. Most of the time I will fill the inside of the canopy/windscreen with blue-tac or silly putty to keep from putting stress cracks in the plastic or breaking it altogether as I handle it. Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 You can use finger nail boards to finish the polish on the canopy seam. There are many grades of the boards from coarse to very fine, they do a great job. You can get them almost anyplace. I second the nail-polish sanding sticks. Cheap and effective. Dip in Future after your all done and it can look better than new! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 That's what I use also and they really do the job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MESHER Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 What grits of nail polishing sanding sticks? I already use these kind of stick for general modelling, the ones I have are course on one side and I think fine on the other side, but the course side is kind of course for canopies, I would worry that the scratches would be too deep. How or where do you hold on to the canopy when you dip it in Future Floor Wax? Once removed would the Future not have runs all over the canopy? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 I use the tri-grit kind. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deon Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 What grits of nail polishing sanding sticks? I already use these kind of stick for general modelling, the ones I have are course on one side and I think fine on the other side, but the course side is kind of course for canopies, I would worry that the scratches would be too deep. How or where do you hold on to the canopy when you dip it in Future Floor Wax? Once removed would the Future not have runs all over the canopy? I hold the canopy with a pair of tweezers and then dip the whole canopy. Then touch the base of the canopy to some towel to absorb the excess Klear. Place the canopy frame down on paper to dry and release the tweezers. The klear will even out where the tweezers were, no mark is left. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
icekj Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 (edited) Here is what works for me: Go get one of these at your fav big-box store 7 way nail polisher you can usually find a cheep house brand for a dollar. I usually start out on side "3" and work to the finer sides as I go. When you are done on side 7 the plasic canopy is slightly frosted but a Future bath takes care of that. This is all I do and every time I take my aircraft to a club meeting or a contest the first question I always get is how did you make the canopy look like that? Future bath technique: Clean up canopy using 7 way nail polisher Wash canopy and let dry Fill small bowl with Future (all it has to be is big enough to contain enough Future to completely submurge the clear part) Drop in clear part Using a set of tweesers push the part around a bit to make sure all air bubbles are gone Whistle a tune Place cheep paper towel on table Use tweesers to fish out the part and lay it down on the towel Move part so that the parts of the canopy that attach to the aircraft are touching the towel Cover with box or larger bowl Go eat, or anything that takes about a half hour Inspect part for runs or thick spots If everything looks good empty bowl of Future back into bottle Let sit for a couple days before masking and painting If you have runs or thick spots soak the part in Windex or any amonia cleaner for a min or two and wipe all the Future off. Then let it day and re-dip. That is it. HTH and God Bless, Ken Edited February 19, 2009 by icekj Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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