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This looks awesome. I love the air ducting you added. I am a mechanic on C-17's and and am very familiar with your detail here and it is outstanding. The parts that are next to the catwalk are the LOX heat exchangers. The Orange ducting is for strait bleed air from the APU and engines and the other ducting is kinda cream color is the cold air ducting from the air conditioning units. Again this looks awesome too bad you won't be able to see most of the detail though but still awesome looking.

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This is probably the last bit of interior work I do before I start to paint it.

I detailed the loadmaster's seat. In fact the only original part is the back of the seat. I also added some plastic card underneath to raise the floor a little. Apologies for the terrible photo, it looked sharp enough when I took it!

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Here's a photo showing the modified loadmaster's station.

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Here's the cockpit. Added a couple of details here, though I tried to restrain myself as this area will be pretty much invisible. Most significant modification here (which this photo doesn't clearly show) was cutting away the lower corners of the instrument panel so that light can now come up through the nose windows.

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Thanks USAFsparkchaser for your kind words and your detailed explanation of what the bits and pieces I'm adding actually do.

DC10oiler, other than dropping the cargo ramp and opening up as many windows and doors as I can, I don't think there's any other way to show off the interior. I briefly toyed with the idea of interior lighting, but that would add a whole new layer of complexity (and work!) that I'm not prepared to deal with.

Brendon, if I can get this finished in time I'll enter it at expo. Otherwise it will probably be part of my club display. Expo has a nasty habit of coinciding with my midyear exams. Best of luck on your C-17!

Chris

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One more little detail to add, The pair of HUD's. Maybe from aluminum foil. You will see that area for sure.

lol, sure. What's one more little detail. I'll probably add that after the halves are joined so I can more easily see how it'll all fit when the canopy's on.

Chris

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I've been working some more on the interior details. My solution to make the cargo bay seats slightly less tedious was to use decal sheet painted black and cut up to represent each seat. I still have to paint the seat belts on. Some of the black and yellow wall placards were done this way too, I still have to add a few.

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Forward cargo bay. I think I might have to tone down those "polka dots" on the air ducts.

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Forward bulkhead. Loadmaster's instrument panels were made with decal sheet.

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Another angle, showing the loadmaster's seat.

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And finally the cockpit.

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Still have to paint a few more things and add a few more makings. I've been thinking about making some decals to show the measurements on the walls.

Chris

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  • 3 weeks later...

I think I'm ready to close up the fuselage now. I added a few extra markings using some spare decals. The measurements on the sides and seat belts were hand painted. I gave the whole interior a bit of a wash and sealed it under a flat coat.

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Chris

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WOW, thats utterly Awesome work!, I'll be saving this thread and using it when i build my kit!

great stuff Chris.

Denzil

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You do not plan to assemble the fuselage halves together are you? You must leave it apart so you can see the detail :o

Once you button the thing up, it will be a straight forward build. Looking great :cheers::thumbsup:

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Superb! I'm also using this post as a guide to my C-17. I have a few questions, though.

What paints did you use for the interior? Also, when I dry fitted the interior side parts, I noticed there's a gap. How will you deal with it once the halves are joined? I'm asking because I was thinking about doing what you did, glueing the inside halves to the fuselage halves, but noticing that gap, I just don't know...

Ricardo

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Sorry guys, I went and closed the fuselage up. As I predicted in my first post, I think I'm paying for assembling this unconventionally. There are a few steps in the join along the fuselage, mainly between where the wings join on. Also there are some gaps and steps around the edges of where the belly piece attaches. These gaps are hard to fix as there's so much raised detail around where I want to put filler.

The fit around the cockpit is mostly good.

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I've had to use quite a bit of filler here though.

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To answer your questions Ricardo, for the floor I used light ghost grey (gunze H308 or FS39375) and for the wall panels I used light gull grey (H51 or FS36440). I can't remember what I used for the darker parts, it might have been dark ghost grey or maybe something darker like H306 (FS36270).

And yes, there is a gap running along the ceiling of the cargo bay as shown in this picture.

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I'm still not sure if I can be bothered fixing this. I'm not even sure how I'd go about it. If you're going to build this the way I did, be very careful lining up the parts on the interior.

Chris

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Looks great Chris,

I must get my C17 out again soon and play with it. In relation to the internal seem, run a piece of wiring down the middle as far as you can see. Who's guess then that the seem was visible prior?

Regards

Andrew

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Thanks for the answers :worship:

Revell should have molded the interior in three parts: one for the ceiling and two for each side. It would be easier to fix the gaps that way.

Ricardo

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  • 3 weeks later...

I fixed the seam as per Andrew's suggestion, and I think it looks pretty good. I also painted the framework around the opening so that it matches the exterior colour.

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The cockpit glass was attached, looks like there's a bit of a seam that fill require some filler.

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I also attached the wings. The model is now getting too big to fit in the frame!

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Chris

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've attached the engines and the winglets. I still have to sand down the filled joins between the engine pylons and the wings, as well as touch up and mask the remaining metallic areas. I'm finding it really tricky to get smooth coverage with the "Mr Metal Color" that I'm using. Brushing it on, it's too easy to leave streaks. Adding another coat doesn't always help as it seems to remove the paint underneath it. No doubt removing the masking will pull up some of the paint, but I can always touch that up.

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I'm nearly there, but not close enough to get this finished by the end of the GB.

Chris

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