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Gloss coat and disasters...


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Ok, on the verge of tears.

I’m building the Airfix 72 Vulcan in the old white 617 Sqn colours. Except for the obvious Airfix problems, its turning out to be quite a nice kit. I painted it with Tamiya’s white (lacquer) primer and decided to leave it at as far a the white goes. I then glossed it with Humrol’s clear gloss (enamel) a few weeks after and left to dry for another few weeks. When I decided I needed to mask a few areas to paint disaster struck. When I peeled off the masking tape (which isn’t really that strong), a whole layer of gloss on top of the white came away, leaving a partially gloss naked Vulcan looking rather sorry for itself.

Has anyone else had the same problem, and if so, how did you go about making sure it doesn’t happen again.

What can I do to bring back a bit of pride to my Vulcan?

Thanks for any replies.

d.

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Hi Daniel,

I had somewhat similar problem with my recent project of Pepsi Concorde, i had painted Trimclad white on the wings about a year ago, now few weeks back i clear coated it with Future and then disaster struck!, once future dried out it dident gaved to me smooth gloss finish, instead i had rippled matt finish!. After couple days i started to fine sand clear coat with waterie 12000 grit sanding cloth from LMG paint polishing kit, but paint started to crack at 3 different spots and decals started to crack also!. I just couldent belive it!, i kept on sanding it to smooth out cracks and went through layers of paint right down to plastic. Daniel what i found out that chemicals in both paints dident match togather and disaster strucked i am assuming same thing happened with you since Lacqures dry faster and harder then enamels and when you placed tape over the emanel clear coat it wasent cured fully and chemical in Lacqure dident match up and peeled of the paint over the model.

What i think you do now is to leave your model aside for few months so enamel can fully cure and then see what you are left with!, i hope clear coat dosent crack or then you will have sand whole model down and re paint it again but dont use enamels with Lacqures, either use Lacqures or use enamels dont use them over each other because there chemicals dont match up togather.

Sam747

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I really can't imagine WHY it would have happened, but to get rid of it...

As Sam said, feather out the patches with fine sandpaper. At best, you'll want to completely remove all traces of the raised edge where the paint has lifted so you're left with just a smooth surface, but it will also work if the surface isn't COMPLETELY perfect. You'll definately want to minimize the ridge, though. Once the paint is feathered out, you should be able to touch the surface up without any worries. If you were lucky in sanding, it may only need a gloss to even out the surface, and you may well be able to do this just with the overall gloss coat to seal in the decals, but if you're heavy handed, you may need to touch up the white (which will be tricky itself), then gloss over that.

It may help in future if you thin your enamels with lacquer thinner, as this will bite into the underlying lacquers better than enamels thinned with plain paint thinner, but occasional glitches are bound to happen anyway.

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Guest 1excop

You might also try using a "less sticky"/low tack type of masking tape for future masking jobs. I know that 3M makes a blue masking tape that is low tack. I've used it before and had real good luck with it being easy on the underlying paint. I've also used Post-It Notes for some masking jobs, but usually just where I need a straight line. I think 3M also makes a removable clear tape that is also low tack.

Gerry

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