limp3r Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Hi guys! First i want to say that i'm amased from the forum and the amount of helpfull information that contanes. You are doing a great job! I mostly make helicopters (but they aren't so good to show them ) and my question is: is there a good and safe way to glue the windows without damaging them. I have tried with glue for clear parts (Cementit), but it's not that strong and some times they just fall off. And i have tried masking them, but the quick drying glue gets under the masking tape and eats them anyway. So i'm in kind of an imposible situation. I'll be very thankfull if someone gives me an advise. Best regards Limp3r Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Old Blind Dog Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Welcome to ARC! There are several options for cementing clear parts. 1. A white glue such as Elmers Glue-All which dries clear and sets up relatively strong. 2. A good-quality epoxy which dries clear; excess can easily be wiped off before it sets, and it cures hard as nails 3. A good-quality specialized cement such as Testors ModelMaster Cement for Clear Parts or Watch Crystal Cement. 4. IF you dip the clear parts in Future before cementing, it's possible to use superglue (CA) without clouding the parts. Hope this helps. Old Blind Dog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
caudleryan Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 You can try Tamiya extra thin cement. It works by cappilary action. And if you hold the clear parts in place and then touch the applicator to the surface to be mated, it will flow along the seams and you won't mess up the parts. At least it works for me. It has worked on clear pieces that are two parts and multiple parts. I hope this helped. RYAN. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tony66 Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Hi Try a product called Gator glue. Some use it for PE parts but its also excellent for clear parts. Quick drying, clean with water, strong and non-toxic. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skyraider Maniac Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Thats good information! I messed up the windshield on my 1/35 AH-1W when I went to glue it on just recently - which of course drives me up the wall. So that information is especially helpful! Where can I find gator glue btw? Thanks! Justin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tony66 Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 I bought my on line here in Australia. I think there would be a number of hobby sites selling it for a reasonable price in the US. Just do a google search. The glue is excellent! All you need is a few dots on your canopy leave it for an hour and you have a very strong bond. If you make a mess all you do is clean it up with water. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skyraider Maniac Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 I bought my on line here in Australia. I think there would be a number of hobby sites selling it for a reasonable price in the US. Just do a google search. The glue is excellent! All you need is a few dots on your canopy leave it for an hour and you have a very strong bond. If you make a mess all you do is clean it up with water.Tony Thanks Tony! I'll do that. I appreciate the info! Justin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
limp3r Posted April 9, 2009 Author Share Posted April 9, 2009 (edited) Thanks guys, for the quick response ;) i'll try all of the metods that you've suggested. Thanks again. Edited April 9, 2009 by limp3r Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Felinoid Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Simple-Fix Indoor Glue Pen, available from Home Depot. Dries clear, doesn't craze the finish and has a good strong bond. I picked it up after reading about it here on ARC. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joseph Osborn Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Thats good information! I messed up the windshield on my 1/35 AH-1W when I went to glue it on just recently - which of course drives me up the wall. So that information is especially helpful! Where can I find gator glue btw?Thanks! Justin You should be able to find it at Wal-Mart. I have never tried it for clear model parts, but if you can clean it up with water before it dries then it's probably a good choice. I usually use either regular white Elmers, Microscale Kristal Klear, or Future to fix clear parts into place. While we're talking clear parts, a good way to provide a scale appearance to clear parts (other than dipping in Future) is to paint the edge of the piece-- the edge that mates to the model and where you'd be applying glue-- the same color as the model. Just the edge, though. This paint makes the plastic appear much thinner than it really is. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
squezzer Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 (edited) I use white glue for wood. Apply whith a toothpick and use a wet brush to wipe the excess. It work fine, fills the seams and it's easy to remove if you make a mistake. And, I forgot to say, it's very cheap! Edited April 10, 2009 by squezzer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
C-130CrewChief Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 You can try Tamiya extra thin cement. It works by cappilary action. And if you hold the clear parts in place and then touch the applicator to the surface to be mated, it will flow along the seams and you won't mess up the parts. At least it works for me. It has worked on clear pieces that are two parts and multiple parts. I hope this helped. RYAN. Same here! awsome stuff for windows. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bails Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 (edited) I agree with Old Blind Dog on the use of epoxy for ensuring that clear parts "stay put." I've tried all sorts of glues and only 5 minute epoxy really give me assurance that the clear parts will hold while I mask them and handle the model during the painting process. The epoxy tends to fill in minor gaps. Any excess cleans up easily with 91% Isopropyl alcohol. Bails PS I place clear parts PRIOR to painting models.....provides for more of a 1x1 look rather than gluing them on after the model is painted. b Edited April 13, 2009 by Bails Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peebeep Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 Definite thumbs up here for the Gator Glue, wonderful stuff. peebeep Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 Hi guys!First i want to say that i'm amased from the forum and the amount of helpfull information that contanes. You are doing a great job! I mostly make helicopters (but they aren't so good to show them ) and my question is: is there a good and safe way to glue the windows without damaging them. I have tried with glue for clear parts (Cementit), but it's not that strong and some times they just fall off. And i have tried masking them, but the quick drying glue gets under the masking tape and eats them anyway. So i'm in kind of an imposible situation. I'll be very thankfull if someone gives me an advise. Best regards Limp3r Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.