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Revell 1/48 Strike Eagle


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Thanks! I'm glad you didn't say "coming together", as it is tending to come apart...

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On the bright side, I'm breaking off all the troublesome parts, and even better, this allows me to get into the wing root (which really on this side needed some help) with the AB. This is a trivial fix with wire, and thank goodness I have the SLAM Eagle to donate fiddly bits like the tank sway brace--the orginal rear brace snapped in half. Even better, the Academy sway brace is, as one would hope, nearly identical to the Revell. For building a 1/48 Revell Strike, the new Academy K or E are absolutely wonderful investments. So, this tank is off now untill the end...

Speaking of the end, this is at least the end of the beginning for paint and finishing--here she is with gloss lacquer applied

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This shot shows th latest efforts to balance the paint scheme and adding light gray edges to the leading edges. Still have, as i see it:

Decals (going with a LN bird. Maybe.)

Sealing gloss coat

Light wash where needed

Other weathering (dirtying up the top of the inlets and the crew entry area)

Flat coat

Buffing

I'm going to have to stick in an inlet fix at some point--the interior inlet gunship paint came off in places for some reason, and that will require some quick shots. Now that I've worked out how to balance using lacquer thinner and retarder with enamels, things are going better as far as shooting long or tangentially. Once all that is done, I can swipe the last two probes from the Academy kit for the inlet probes.

Edited by MarkW
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Minor update, no pics yet. Spent most of the day cleaning up paint, doing the detail metal painting on the bomb racks and fuel tanks/pylons. Also did some more bare metal weathering on rack leading edges. Still need to do a bit of that nasty yellow primer on the front edge of the leading CFT rack, while painted the long CFT rack leading edges lighter gray (just like the wing and stab leading edges.

Started decaling. Looks like I will be using up to 3+ sets of decals--since I'm doing a PW -229 bird, I've decided on on LN (I just can't do the tiger stripe thing). Mostly. Anywho, I'll also be using the Academy SLAM Eagle sheet, which has decals for the pods that are better than Hasegawa Weapons Set D decals. Also using the Academy F-22 sheet for the AIM-9M decals, since I stole the AIM-9Ms from that kit.

Had a terrible time putting the decals on the Sniper pod. The decals were the fragilist I've ever dealt with, and probably weren't the ones I should have started with.

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It's still and option, and one that makes more sense with this being a gear up kit. Problem is, the weight. For my uber tiny magnets, I need two to hold up an AMRAAM versus just one for the AIM-9M. The tanks are substantially heavier, though. I have some smaller bar magnets that should be hefty enough.

I'll have to ruminate on this some more...

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Ok, quick teaser shot of the decal progress. I had to redo the AN/AAQ-13 pod decals because the Academy instruction sheet placed them incorrectly. Fortunately, the Revell sheet had adequate spares. The dcealing is really bringing this kit to life.

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The topside us a mixed bag of the Two Bobs sheet and the kit decals. The kit decals tend to be pretty much the same or a little thicker than TB's offering. This actually became an issue with the national insignia, as the TB stars and bars were IMO too thin, while the thicker lines of the kit decals really nailed the look. More to come...

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Decaling is progressing well. I'm relying more on photos tha the decal instructions to get placement right, as there are "variations" to say the least. One thing interesting about the Two Bob's sheet is it is set up for an AC without CFTs! It calls out a number of decals that are under the CFTs, and doesn't include any of the CFT decals. I thought that was pretty odd for a F-15E sheet. CFT decals go on tomorrow...

Anywho, pretty much all I have left after that are to pick a tail number. Since I'm doing an in theatre bird, the other sticky wicket left is to cut the names out of the eagle headed boxes on the side of the cockpit, or figure out how to spray them out.

Can anyone say for certain how up to date the serial numbers on strikeeagle.com are? Are we getting just 5 a year?

Edited by MarkW
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They're accurate, and those are all we are getting (01-2004 being the last, 217 total I believe)...at this time. There has been TALK of getting more Strike Eagles for the Air National Guard, and we've lost some to attrition, including (as you know) one two days ago in Afghanistan. Time will tell whether or not this will happen. It's certainly an option that has my full support. We can never have enough Strike Eagles. :rofl:

Aaron

Edited by strikeeagle801
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Nice build. Did you use a light wash in the panel lines? I am building an E right now too and the dark wash isn't showing up on a dark finish. Thanks!

Thanks! It wasn't a wash as much as using liner brush to paint thinned but near full strength silver and light ghost gray into panel lines and rivet holes. I immediately wiped away any excess paint, then dry brushed shades of gunship around the panel lines. There are actually very few panels on the strike that should be washed in a dark color.

Now up: dealing is done except the tail codes and cleaning up any silvering. The dark red bars on the tail tips will have to be painted on, as the TB decals don't fit properly--the white backing went on ok, with a minor touch up for gaps. Fortunately, the railroad color Wisconsin Central Maroon is a perfect match for the red. So, now to clear coat the decals to seal them and even out the finish. With the clear coat cured, i'll be able to ask the tail tips and get the red on.

Also gotta see if I can knock out inkjet tail codes versus setting up the Alps for a few digits. Leaning towards 3002 or 3004 (just so I can avoid wearing a stock decal number!).

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Quick update--printed the magic number 4 so I can have 00-3004. Turns out the tail code is Aramdillo USAF font, 38 pt font. We'll see it works out once the fixtive cures.

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Update: Finished decaling. After reviewing recent photos of the LN bird I'm modeling, it looks like AC assigned to the 494th tend to either have more stencils because they are new, or it is a unit thing. Either way, I added the final decals.

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Tomorrow begins the light washing. Yes, it looks terrible at the moment with the gloss coat...

Edited by MarkW
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Update: Finished decaling. After reviewing recent photos of the LN bird I'm modeling, it looks like AC assigned to the 494th tend to either have more stencils because they are new, or it is a unit thing. Either way, I added the final decals.

Tomorrow begins the light washing. Yes, it looks terrible at the moment with the gloss coat...

Mark, I think it looks really good - most of us know the gloss coat is a temporary necessity

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Not to get all "Harry Potter" on you, but it reminds me of when the Phoenix was looking ratty--right before bursting into flames and emerging pretty again...I gots me some ugly to do before the pretty happens!

Not much new to add, but some underside shots. Since this is in-flight, the belly counts!

Side shots--I don't like the way Two Bobs did the CFT decals--especially the Panther badge. Looks like I'll need to do some careful painting to correct it.

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Added the Academy SLAM Eagle flare dispenser decals...that kit has been priceless.

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Edited by MarkW
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Thanks!

Been playing around with the Panthers badge. Here is what Twobobs gave me:

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Here's what my inkjet version looks like:

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The "bald" spot is where the clear coat burnt off when I stripped the TB decal. My new one is more accurate, but I'm not super happy with the print quality--a little more fuzz than I'm liking. I'll break out the Alps for a second try...

Finally, started putting down the metal. I know, I know, the tailhook is gunship, and it will be again... :tease:. So far used Alclad duraluminum and a mix with bright aluminum fro variation. The JFS exhaust port is working out perfectly!

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Thanks!

Well, I decided to give the Alps a go on the Panther. I always knew Alps printer resolutions were kind of bogus in that when it says 600 x 85 dpi, that sounds terrible next to a modern inkjet at 3000+ by 1400 or so dpi, but it will actually print better than the inkjet. Since the inkjet decal had bled (and I had 5 or so spares), I stripped it then put on the Alps version.

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Comparing to the original incorrect badge from TB and the inkjet version, this is far superior. I still have 6 or so if anyone needs one! My success with decals got me to thinking about the vertical tail stripe. Masking for the maroon band quickly became a problem with the pod on top of the left stabilizer. So, I am trying something I haven't some before: paint on decals. Last night I airbrushed the maroon color onto decal film. Now I'll see if this works...

Edited by MarkW
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