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A-4SU superskyhawk 1/48 gawa


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Thank you Pete for your response. If possible, I would like to avoid lacquers at this time so let me ask you this: Do you think Mr. Color acrylic is far better than Tamiya acrylic or do they have similar properties? The thing you were saying about very superb smooth finish is what I am looking for. If I can achieve this only with Mr. Color lacquers, then I may stick with Tamiya for now and improve my skills. However, if you think one could expect an immediate quantum leap from Tamiya to Mr. Color acrylics, I may give them a try from luckymodels.com. Its so damn difficult to get them in the US it seems.

As for the MM enamels, I consider them worse than Tamiya acrylics. For general coverage they work fine but when it comes to doing the "postshading with a thinned, lighter color" I have found MM enamels not to flow nicely out of my a/b despite my careful thinning and airpressure adjustments. I use MM enamel thinner. Despite all my efforts, MM enamels kinda spatter too much. Using the same care and thinning, I have obtained much better results with Tamiya acrylics for such type of work. At the end, my goal is to be able to do the postshading that Honza gave a tutorial about in is Greek 1/48 RF-4. That is my ultimate goal and all my exploration is targeted to that. Kiki.o's 1/48 F-104 is also another great example of that technique but he too seems to be using Mr. Color (not sure if lacquer or acrylic). Do you have any guidance for this? Thank you for sharing your experience!

To summarize, here is my impression of the relative performance of MM enamel, Tamiya acrylic, Mr. Color acrylic and lacquers. Note that to date, I have experience only with MM and Tamiya. Do y'all agree with this or are there other thought? My focus set is modern USAF and NAVY jet aircraft with typical earth camo or grey camo painted with airbrush including preshading and postshading:

Scale: 1-10 , 10 being excellent:

MM Enamel: 4

Tamiya acrylic: 6-7

Mr. Color acrylic: 9 (?)-->I guess...

Mr. Color lacquer: 10

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

hey dude....

ok first, I'm Jack...no pete here LOL LOL!!!!

Second, the Gunze sangyo acrylic range is called Hobby Acqueos colors...so if you go find the "MR. Color acrylic" range you won't find anything.

Then, let me explain you a bit and go in order...

The smoothest/glossest finish is achievable only with the Mr. Color range...the acrylics dry mostly flat, some glossy but not as the Mr. Color range. The hobby acqueos range PERSONALLY is waaaaay better than the Tamiya paints but I would never do post-shading with them since they are slow to dry and they clog your airbrush way faster than any paint....Instead I would use the enamels for such works...they dry as well slow,very slow but they are greaaaat paints...If you work with MM you'll find only that their problem is that the gloss range are the finest one, the best ones to be sprayed but the most of the bottles are flat (so bigger pigments!!!)

Let me explain,in my experience...in my experience, they always clog into the a/b especially when postshading. The best way to solve that that I found and works everytime is to transform a flat paint into a gloss,high gloss one then put in the a/b and spray it...You can do this by mixing in a tray a 1:1 ratio of paint (the flat one, pick for example the RLM range which is all flat) and gloss clear laquer always from MM...it's a bigger jar. Mixed them, then add let's say an 80 or 70% of thinner, mix it well and do it like milk consistency and put it in the a/b....trust me, nothin better than this (expect Mr. Colors LOL).

Sssooo, in the end, if you can find the Mr. Color range it would be better...If you can find Hobby Acqueos pick them and change all of your Tamiya paints (also because there's a much wider range of paints) but the best advice is to learn how to great spray the MM....I know also here on the board tons of people who wouldn't change MM for their lives.

From what you told me it's clear that you have problem sprayin well the MM paints...follow my instruction for the postshadin of the MM paints and you'll see the difference...try also to change pressure and make some practice.

Hope this helped you...in case write me at giacomo.cioffi@swissonline.ch so that we don't hijack Honza's thread anymore LOL LOL

Cheers dude

:salute:

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Thanks for coments!

decals by hasegawa and clear coat...

P1010053_resize.jpg

P1010054_resize.jpg

and one foto for Girolamo...

A-21.jpg

ok i see the photo. That's right.

But, I'll never do on my model this one. The real painting job, in scale cover it.

it's so different when you use a NMF. In this case We must do it!

It's my opinion...

Whe are token of rivet mania.

Anyway you have made a Fantastic Job. There 's no truble!!! :) ;)

I hope to se finished it!

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After nice week in Italy I am back behind the table.

100% surf, ready for paint! :cheers:

D-5.jpg

That is some master craftsmanship!!!....The makers are gonna be jealous of how much better you've made that Scooter look.. BTW where did you get the template for the rounded ovals.." I gotta get me one of those!!!"

Oh and did you have to show the pix from Italy...?, now a whole lotta folks are looking at the budget trying to see if they can fit a trip to Italy in :rolleyes:

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Thanks you ACES of this forum....

As an observation, I am sure you will weather and fade the decals and the black areas later, right?

Martinsson

You are right... I will now airbrushing some oil filtres..... like on my RF-4E...

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Honza,

This is GREAT WORK. U have gotta share your shading technique :whistle:

Did u mix those colors yourself or are they straight out of the bottle?

RSAF scooters have never look smarter :D If u ever need reference photos jus PM me.

Please keep up the good work.

Cheers!

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Did u mix those colors yourself or are they straight out of the bottle?

Many thanks!

base camo is from bottles. shaded was with original colors with adding little bit of some light shade of color...

for example to dark green was added little bit of light green...

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