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A-4SU superskyhawk 1/48 gawa


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Nice start there especially with the rivets!

Some things to note about the Super Skyhawk. The bulge on the spine that Hasegawa provided is of the wrong shape. A few builds in the ARC gallery have had the bulge reshaped correctly so you can use them as reference. Also, the panel above the flap is actually a spoiler and hence should have a panel line next to the aileron. The photo below should show this.

P1010851.jpg

If you need reference photos of the A-4SU, I have a small collection of them and can see what I can help you out with along the way.

Cheers!

Mark

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Many thanks!

If I looking to your foto, I thing that I know what you mean. I have some fotos from airliners, but

I´ll be happy for any fotos from you.

Can you send me some fotos to kopecky.j4n@gmail.com please?

If you can, with some fotos of builded models...

many thanks! :P :worship: :worship:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for coments gents!

How did you manage the curved rivets on the fuselage? Dymo tape?

first: pencil line

second: freehand rivets with riveter.

It´s not so perfect, but not bad. :-)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great work as always, Honza!

I am looking forward to your weathering treatment. :explode:

May I ask which drawings you used for the rivet pattern?

I am looking for a good reference book showing such details as well as having good detail pics of the A-4...

Cheers,

Anders

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Hi Pete, I think Honza is using a riveting tool, that tool is pretty much a very small "pizza slicer" with equally spaced spikes. So when you press and run it on a surface, it creates indentations into it. That means uniform spacing is achieved automatically. The thing that is amazing is his ability to follow a straight line with free hand.

Honza, from your old posts I think you are using Gunze lacquer paints, right? Can you tell me what you think of Tamiya acrylics? All advanced modelers seem to like Gunze but I cannot find them here (and I am not that advanced but mediocre I would say). I build modern jet aircrafts.

What is it that makes you not use Tamiya? The only thing I can say is tamiya paint ends up too flat and Gunze seems to have a very nice and thin sheen to it. I know subsequent coats kinda washes out those differences but I feel the key advantage of Gunze (or the disadvantage of Tamiya) might lie somewhere here. Any thoughts on this? I would greatly appreciate!!!

Whew!

Another Honza mini-masterpeice!

Sweet work on the rivets. Did you use any special technique to achieve that even spacing or did you eyeball it along the pencil line?

Thanks,

Pete

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Honza,

You are surly the master in rivetting!!

I know there are many tools (many of them using some sort of wheel).

What tool(s) do you use?

How do you get the rivetting in the hard to get to corners?

Thanks in advance

--Bennet--

after surfacer...
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Hi Pete, I think Honza is using a riveting tool, that tool is pretty much a very small "pizza slicer" with equally spaced spikes. So when you press and run it on a surface, it creates indentations into it. That means uniform spacing is achieved automatically. The thing that is amazing is his ability to follow a straight line with free hand.

Honza, from your old posts I think you are using Gunze lacquer paints, right? Can you tell me what you think of Tamiya acrylics? All advanced modelers seem to like Gunze but I cannot find them here (and I am not that advanced but mediocre I would say). I build modern jet aircrafts.

What is it that makes you not use Tamiya? The only thing I can say is tamiya paint ends up too flat and Gunze seems to have a very nice and thin sheen to it. I know subsequent coats kinda washes out those differences but I feel the key advantage of Gunze (or the disadvantage of Tamiya) might lie somewhere here. Any thoughts on this? I would greatly appreciate!!!

Dude, I'll try to respond to you since I use Gunze Mr. Color as well.

I have a whole range of Tamiya as well but nothing beats Mr color laquers, not even enamels (I have some MM too,which works great BTW).

The very great thing about Mr. Colour's is that yes, they ends up very smooth but I think in the end it's not the most important thing you look for. The great advantages are that you can paint them to a veeeeery thin mix withouth makin them clog in the a/b...it's fantastic how smooth you can airbrush them withouth makin disasters. The only thing is that you have to mix a bit more frequently the paint cause the paint tends to separate from the thinner.

This great result is givin by the thinner though which has a retarder inside....this makes the application of this paint one of the best in the world.

The fact it's so smooth and great to apply, well, it depends on the pigments and on the stuff they put in there when they produce them...that's it.

I don't spray Tamiya almost never. It's just because it doesn't give me the comfort, the reliability to get a superb smooth finish...with Mr. Colors I can do almost everything.If i thin them the best way I can also get at 4 or 5 mm close to the plane with the a/b!!!!!!that without having splitterin, spiders or stuff like that...this gives me the great possibility to make veeeery thin patterns and shades as well!!!!

Tamiya paints are just unpredictable,they can clog the a/b and when you spray them makes you splotches and stuff. They are not made for sprayin afterall.

If you don't find Mr. Color paints at least try to find the Hobby Acqueus colors range...that's the acrilic range from Gunze...at least they are the ones who get nearer the "big brothers"...or get enamel paints.

Hope it helped a bit dude,

If you need more just ask

Cheers

:)

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Dude, I'll try to respond to you since I use Gunze Mr. Color as well.

I have a whole range of Tamiya as well but nothing beats Mr color laquers, not even enamels (I have some MM too,which works great BTW).

The very great thing about Mr. Colour's is that yes, they ends up very smooth but I think in the end it's not the most important thing you look for. The great advantages are that you can paint them to a veeeeery thin mix withouth makin them clog in the a/b...it's fantastic how smooth you can airbrush them withouth makin disasters. The only thing is that you have to mix a bit more frequently the paint cause the paint tends to separate from the thinner.

This great result is givin by the thinner though which has a retarder inside....this makes the application of this paint one of the best in the world.

The fact it's so smooth and great to apply, well, it depends on the pigments and on the stuff they put in there when they produce them...that's it.

I don't spray Tamiya almost never. It's just because it doesn't give me the comfort, the reliability to get a superb smooth finish...with Mr. Colors I can do almost everything.If i thin them the best way I can also get at 4 or 5 mm close to the plane with the a/b!!!!!!that without having splitterin, spiders or stuff like that...this gives me the great possibility to make veeeery thin patterns and shades as well!!!!

Tamiya paints are just unpredictable,they can clog the a/b and when you spray them makes you splotches and stuff. They are not made for sprayin afterall.

If you don't find Mr. Color paints at least try to find the Hobby Acqueus colors range...that's the acrilic range from Gunze...at least they are the ones who get nearer the "big brothers"...or get enamel paints.

Hope it helped a bit dude,

If you need more just ask

Cheers

:D

Thank you Pete for your response. If possible, I would like to avoid lacquers at this time so let me ask you this: Do you think Mr. Color acrylic is far better than Tamiya acrylic or do they have similar properties? The thing you were saying about very superb smooth finish is what I am looking for. If I can achieve this only with Mr. Color lacquers, then I may stick with Tamiya for now and improve my skills. However, if you think one could expect an immediate quantum leap from Tamiya to Mr. Color acrylics, I may give them a try from luckymodels.com. Its so damn difficult to get them in the US it seems.

As for the MM enamels, I consider them worse than Tamiya acrylics. For general coverage they work fine but when it comes to doing the "postshading with a thinned, lighter color" I have found MM enamels not to flow nicely out of my a/b despite my careful thinning and airpressure adjustments. I use MM enamel thinner. Despite all my efforts, MM enamels kinda spatter too much. Using the same care and thinning, I have obtained much better results with Tamiya acrylics for such type of work. At the end, my goal is to be able to do the postshading that Honza gave a tutorial about in is Greek 1/48 RF-4. That is my ultimate goal and all my exploration is targeted to that. Kiki.o's 1/48 F-104 is also another great example of that technique but he too seems to be using Mr. Color (not sure if lacquer or acrylic). Do you have any guidance for this? Thank you for sharing your experience!

To summarize, here is my impression of the relative performance of MM enamel, Tamiya acrylic, Mr. Color acrylic and lacquers. Note that to date, I have experience only with MM and Tamiya. Do y'all agree with this or are there other thought? My focus set is modern USAF and NAVY jet aircraft with typical earth camo or grey camo painted with airbrush including preshading and postshading:

Scale: 1-10 , 10 being excellent:

MM Enamel: 4

Tamiya acrylic: 6-7

Mr. Color acrylic: 9 (?)-->I guess...

Mr. Color lacquer: 10

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

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